Cost to build your own home?

[F250orelse]

That's a smoking good deal. I had 2300 in pipe, tanks and a pump, 1100 for stone, machine rental was 395. I also had $400 for the perc test, $250 for the septic permit, and two more $335 machine rentals for the profile holes that I had to dig twice. SO i guess I put the septic in for 5k but that wasn't all inclusive. My cousin-in-law just put in a sand mound and paid a contractor and I think he was in the 15k-17k range all said and done. I'm pretty happy with my price!

He pretty much just charged for materials. Permit I paid around $100, my perc test was $250 I believe.

 

[jk96]

Our septic ran $6450 installed by contractor in 2013. We did not require a sump pump though.

 

[EddieWalker]

Again, lot of good advice.

But I have to disagree on the 'go out versus up' on costs. UP beats OUT almost every time. Going up, you utilize the same foundation (but slab IS the cheapest of any foundation type, agreed), and same roof to cover more space. I actually find a story and a half is the way to go when going up, but even a conventional 2 story is cheaper than spreading out. IF you want everything on a single level, that's fine.....do it....but it will not cost out cheaper, no way.

I used to agree with you about it being cheaper to go up then stay all one level. But when I was building spec homes, I did the numbers and it didn't work out. What I am wondering is what you guys are spending on the foundation? Here it's pretty cheap. No frost line, just dig the footings, lay the rebar, and pour. $5 a square foot to have a crew come out, set forms, tie rebar and provide all the materials including concrete is a safe number. I've had it done for quite a bit less. I paid .50 cents a foot for labor on my parents house a few years ago, concrete was $85 a yard and I think rebar was in the $500 range.

I've never seen an AC unit that could deal with the upstairs heat and keep both levels the same. I didn't know they existed. Around here, they use two different units.

This is probably a regional thing. I can see looking at pics of what some of you do when building basements and digging massive trenches, then going up with block, that it could be very expensive to do the foundation that way.

 

[newbury]

We just finished building our dream home and used a builder. Even with that, it was an all consuming process in just the design, and material selection. Since the home was custom we had complete control of everything- which was great - but took a lot of time to evaluate options, determine pricing and make smart decisions. I cannot imagine doing all that AND the actual construction too. The tradesmen who drywall, paint, frame, roof, etc all do their thing every day and do it fast - you'll be slower, without the tricks of the trade knowledge and without special tools and equipment.

We also had foam insulation and I highly recommend it - our new house is twice the size of our old one and the electric/gas bills are nearly identical! So thats at least a 1000+ per year savings in utilities on a equity per square foot basis!

Cost to build just a basement is around $50 - total without land was around $100-110, and if you dont want builder grade finishings, then expect to pay more. Good luck!

One of the things these days is the labor saving but expensive (if bought new) specialty tools.

The bazooka etc probably cost over $1,000.

A good nailer and compressor about $500 or more.

When my family built the duplex we had a wide choice of nailers, 20 ounce, 16 ounce etc. A wide variety of drywall taping tools, 8", 12", etc.

 

[jk96]

I used to agree with you about it being cheaper to go up then stay all one level. But when I was building spec homes, I did the numbers and it didn't work out. What I am wondering is what you guys are spending on the foundation? Here it's pretty cheap. No frost line, just dig the footings, lay the rebar, and pour. $5 a square foot to have a crew come out, set forms, tie rebar and provide all the materials including concrete is a safe number. I've had it done for quite a bit less. I paid .50 cents a foot for labor on my parents house a few years ago, concrete was $85 a yard and I think rebar was in the $500 range.

I've never seen an AC unit that could deal with the upstairs heat and keep both levels the same. I didn't know they existed. Around here, they use two different units.

This is probably a regional thing. I can see looking at pics of what some of you do when building basements and digging massive trenches, then going up with block, that it could be very expensive to do the foundation that way.

I'm not saying your wrong especially if you've run the numbers. I was just curious how you came up with the conclusion since it's counter to the typical argument. The foundation issue may be a big part of it. We are in Missouri and most homes here have a full basement. Heating two levels with one AC unit is simply a matter of sizing the unit correctly and using powered zone dampers to move the air to where it needs to go. Most homes have a zone on each floor but others like ours may have multiple zones.

 

[jk96]

Eddie in regards to foundations we had a 2,150 sq/ft basement. It was put in around August of 2013. Here's our total cost from bare dirt to basement with 9' walls, 4" concrete floor ready for framing.

Dig basement - $2,500
Footings, 10" concrete walls (8" is typical), stem wall for step down to walk-out garage, retaining walls and frost footings for walkout garage $17,548
Waterproof foundation, install drain tile, rock, 4" concrete floor, backfill foundation - $8242

Total per sq/ft - $13.15

 

[buckeyefarmer]

Here, up is lot cheaper than going out.
I built in 9 months while working full time. Usually had a couple friends help on the weekends. Started framing in jan, was fortunate to have a mild winter. Dormers take a lot of time.
My excavator also did the septic, very reasonable price.

Garage was added later, took way longer than the house.
Once you move in, it's done. Few things i never finished.

 

[newbury]

I'm not saying your wrong especially if you've run the numbers. I was just curious how you came up with the conclusion since it's counter to the typical argument. The foundation issue may be a big part of it. We are in Missouri and most homes here have a full basement. Heating two levels with one AC unit is simply a matter of sizing the unit correctly and using powered zone dampers to move the air to where it needs to go. Most homes have a zone on each floor but others like ours may have multiple zones.

Also modifying the living cycle helps.
I've houses with 2 upper levels and a basement. In the heat of the summer I spend a lot of time in the basement where it is cool, in the cold of winter I spend more time upstairs where the heat goes as it rises. Sort of "micro migration".

While keeping the center level (where the thermostat is located) at about 62-64 degrees F in the winter, and in the summer at 75 to 80:
This winter my "rec room" in the basement was down to a cool 55 degrees F, in the summer it rises to a blazing 74 degrees
The top level - winter 70, summer 78 to 80 during the heat of the day.

I've also found that multiple levels saves on medical costs. My workshop/tool storage is in the basement. Recently I've been working on an upstairs bathroom. Ten trips a day for tools, supplies, etc (cutting stuff on the tablesaw in the basement for upstairs) is an exercise program in itself.

 

[EddieWalker]

Let me add to the debate of going up over going out. I'm basing that on hiring out crews to do the work. Not doing most of the work yourself. If that's the case, I can see it going either way. It would depend on what you are paying for the foundation compared to what you are doing for the exterior siding, and how you are going to go about getting it done. Most houses in my area are brick. There is one labor rate for the first level, another rate for the second level. As a remodeler, I also have different rates for working on the second story on a house. For window work, I charge double. All the older homes in the area have wood rot on the original windows. It's a never ending source of work for me.

 

[RedNeckRacin]

He pretty much just charged for materials. Permit I paid around $100, my perc test was $250 I believe.

That's a dam good deal then.


Eddie, I just got a quote from superior walls (precast bolt together) and the house walls (24x40, one walkout door, and two hopper windows) the walls themselves with R-12.5 standard insulation was around 9k. Now I priced in a 32x40 attached garage as well for 5k in materials. Total for setup, delivery, and installation was a bit over 17,000 all said and done. The best part is, It only takes the guys a few hours (6 or so) to set the entire project that I have outlined. That is as long as your footer is prepped and its only requires a stone footer. no concrete. Concrete I just priced yesterday was 126.50/yd delivered. Granted I am only about 5 miles from the plant so that helps out alot!



FWIW, frost line around here is assumed to be 32" but I spec everything at 40-48 inches so there are no issues.