Counter Weight

[marq]

I made an error a few years ago, it was all in good faith, but I sold my 3-point counter weight bucket since it had not been used in a number of years and simply did not see any future need.

Fast forward to today and I'm gearing up to build a new garage this summer and for that I purchased a set of bolt on forks to aid in the moving of material, and even the possibility of using it as a low platform for moving material to the roof.

I used the forks last week, they worked great, to move some brush around and found the tractor to be light on the front end, it's a JD 2210 compact, so you can guess where this is going.

Wondering if anybody had a novel approach to adding a couple hundred pounds to the 3-point that was simple, effective, easy using products that were "around the house", not wanting to go the route of making a home made cement barrel counterweigh, I'd just go find another box at that point.

 

[seville009]

I usually just use my brush hog as a counter weight. You have any attachments you can just stick on?

 

[jeff9366]

Here is your solution:

Simple 3PH Ballast for FEL

Just a piece of 3/4" all-thread attaching the old wheel weights to a 3PH crossbar. I removed the tractor drawbar to keep the weights from banging on it.

www.tractorbynet.com

 

[WranglerX]

Have you go maybe 200-300 pounds of barbell weights or maybe old engine block from the last rebuild of motor for your truck... Got a "bone yard" on your property or access to one.... You are limited only by your imagination...

 

[newbury]

Put a backhoe on it.

 

[bcp]

Weights from Goodwill. About 3 feet of 1 inch bar. Pair of weight bar clamps.

Bruce

 

[Thomas]

Are you rear tires loaded?

I've seen V8 engine block use for counter balance.

 

[KennyG]

It's hard to beat concrete as a cost effective weight. I built a trailer hitch bracket for my quick hitch with a 2 inch receiver. Then I made a box for a form and poured a 300 pound block with a 2 inch square tube sticking out. It's a very flexible and easy to use setup.

 

[oosik]

What bcp shows - post #6. In my situation - I put my 1000# rear blade on the 3-point. Use your imagination - but be safe. I also have 1550# of RimGuard in the rear tires. A few times all my weight still isn't enough. I move LARGE rocks and chunks of pine tree trunk. I use the "knuckle dragging" method. When I lift the load - the bottom of the grapple will still drag on the high spots. Only do any higher lifting when I get the load to the exact spot and then, only if it's a good spot. Good spot = hard, dry, level ground.

 

[ripHST]

I needed a Carry-all, but wanted to have it on when lifting logs with the grapple so it needed to be heavy. I put an extra layer of 2x6s on the bottom to hold a bunch of lead I had. Still under construction but should do the job. It's a little over 500#s now and I still need to add sides, tail-gate (with vise) and tools. I should be able to go over 600#s before I'm through. I don't lift a lot of big timber so I think that should do it.

 

[oosik]

ripHST - be certain your ballast is secured. Don't want any ballast falling off when you are in the middle of a heavy lift.

 

[ripHST]

thanks oosik. yeah, it'll be contained....just haven't gotten to it yet. I have a hitch receiver to install and the rear bolts will be behind the covers......I had to get more hardware before I could button it all up.

 

[marq]

No other implements, no engine blocks or weights laying around, tires are not loaded it's used 99% for cutting grass.

What I do have are some large sections of logs. Granted not as heavy as steel but thinking to find the largest piece, drill a hole for spreader bar. All I'm looking for is a couple hundred pounds of bonus ballast.

 

[KennyG]

Using several hundred pounds of logs as counterweight sounds really awkward to me. Here is what I did. I built a 3 point hitch receiver. You can buy them for $100 or so but I built this for a lot less.

It's reversible so I can have it close or extended. I can put on a various carrying platforms, etc. or I can just use the concrete weights I have cast. I usually just use the big block mounted close, but if I think I need more weight, I cast these "suitcase" type weights also.

Whatever it's worth it for you to do, but I think the log approach will be annoying if you use it often.

 

[toolslinger]

Well, you could try the log... Worst case is you're out some time, and get annoyed by it.
Start trolling Craigslist, or FB Marketplace and search for "weight". There are a number of units near me that I've been eyeing up to deal with ballast issues I have... A couple old small crane counterweights (800# each), and some stacking weights the guy listed as for a JD, also in the 800# range (never seen them before).

I did just finally snap a couple days ago, and just ordered a pallet of MF suitcase weights from EA... Not the cheapest solution, but they'll just hook on, and the folks selling used suitcase weights around me seem to think their units are gold plated... I'm getting 13 new delivered to my company for what one guy wanted for 6 used and he was 2+ hours away...

 

[npalen]

Are you rear tires loaded?

I've seen V8 engine block use for counter balance.

Might want to tie that V8 into the PTO shaft for extra horsepower! I can see it now with a blower and headers! Think Tim the Tool Man.

Edit: Can you imagine inputting 1000 HP into a 540 PTO at 6000 RPM?

 

[ripHST]

Since your counterweight needs are modest ("couple hundred pounds"), I'll make another case for a carry-all. Personally, I'm a big fan of dual purpose equipment and even a relatively simple carry-all (frame with platform and back) should give you that much weight. Then you have the utility of throwing tools or materials on it (or additional weight when you need it). win-win. but....if you're just looking for the weight and want to keep expense at a minimum, or work in tight quarters where a carry-all would be in the way, it's hard to beat the other suggestions here....concrete, recycled weights and steel, etc.

 

[marq]

Actually what I ended up doing is just hooking up the utility trailer to the 3-point. Yes it's a pain but I have the room around the building to make approaches and for the limited need it works and cost absolutely nothing.

Once I get the new garage built I'll have more room to store stuff and not feel so bad that items are sitting outside.