Couple Concrete Pad Questions

   / Couple Concrete Pad Questions #21  
Another concrete guy here weighing in. I don't know of anyone in our area that will guarantee concrete not to crack, if they do their guarantee most likely isn't worth the piece of paper it is written on.
As far as wire or fiber, that is something that has been argued since fiber hit the scene and probably will be until something else comes out. We prefer to use wire and lift it up. Note the key to this is the wire has to be in the top 3rd of the concrete not laying on the ground. If you use concrete bricks to hold wire up it will still fall between the bricks. Have 1 guy whose only job is to pull the wire up and it will stay there if you are pouring at a reasonable slump 4"-4.5". If you do not get the wire into the top 3rd of the slab fiber may be a better choice. There are different sizes and lengths of fiber as well as thicknesses some even have little barbs on it. We are using a lot of the F100 macro fiber from master builders now in commercial work. You would not want it on a finished floor though. If you have any doubt as to weather the fiber or wire works best go try to tear some of that has has fiber used and properly placed wire. They are very similar but improperly placed wire is quite easy to tear out.
To the guys that say to pour it when it is 70 degrees, low humidity, moon in the second phase, that is all crap. Yes ideal conditions do exist but having any expectations of getting a crew there the exact day that the conditions are right is nearly impossible for a good crew. Living in southern IN. we always have high humidity hot in the summer cold in the winter as does most other places in the country. We cannot wait on "the" perfect day unless we are doing it ourselves. When I pour concrete for my uses it is usually under some of the worst conditions when I cannot work for anyone else.
Bottom line concrete isn't rocket science hire a good contractor to come and do it they will do a good job, leave the work to them, or do it yourself. I know we have not had to tear a piece of our concrete out in over 6 years that we considered a complete job. We have tore out a few times when the heat got the best of us or unexpected cold snap, equipment malfunction etc. But that stuff happens sometimes to everyone. The good guys will start over and the bad guys will still try to sell it to the builder. We had a slow week last week and still poured over 400 yards 7 guys doing residential and light commercial. I do not consider myself an expert, but I do pour a lot of concrete and cannot remember the last time we had a complaint that was not related to owner prepped sub grade.
 
   / Couple Concrete Pad Questions
  • Thread Starter
#22  
As usual allot of great information from TBN members. Understand folks making a living in concrete need to bid jobs accurately but I tend to over-engineer personal projects and see no reason to save a couple hundred dollars on this one. So wire and 6" of 3000PSI concrete with fiber (which was what he quoted.) Going to wait until the contractor sees my site to decide if I should grade or leave it to the pro's. Thanks everyone!
 
   / Couple Concrete Pad Questions #23  
I beg to differ on "all concrete cracks". I have done concrete slabs and been the QC inspector on many concrete slab projects from 3" thick to 12" thick and there are still no cracks in many. My own driveway I did 10 years ago; 4" thick, double the glass fiber, 4,000 PSI, 3"slump, air entrained". 16' wide 60' long, control joint every 10' cross wise, and no construction joints, constant placement, broom finish. Still perfect today. The concrete contractor agreed to do it my way and no guarantee from him. To follow the process that provides those results unfortunately is not the common practice in residential light commercial practice today. For your slab, your are talking 50% more labor cost and 25% more material cost. So, bottom line is folks live with a sub standard job in the name of economics. Contractors in your market don't even know the American Concrete Association standards exist much less practice them.

Ron

:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


All concrete cracks: how does that work for building floor slabs with beams?? Do they all crack? What is the allowable crackage? :D
 
   / Couple Concrete Pad Questions #24  
:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

All concrete cracks: how does that work for building floor slabs with beams?? Do they all crack? What is the allowable crackage? :D

AHH!!! ELEVATED SLABS. A little different than a slab on grade, different forces applied, usually different curing, but for the sake of argument, and sore thumbs from typing on a phone, I'll leave that one for another day, LOL

Sent from my LGL35G using TractorByNet
 
   / Couple Concrete Pad Questions #25  
:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

All concrete cracks: how does that work for building floor slabs with beams?? Do they all crack? What is the allowable crackage? :D

On that note though, I may have to look for a spec. of 'how much' is allowable...can't say I've seen one...

Sent from my LGL35G using TractorByNet
 
   / Couple Concrete Pad Questions #26  
:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

All concrete cracks: how does that work for building floor slabs with beams?? Do they all crack? What is the allowable crackage? :D

I do have to say, though, driving under any bridge in these parts or doing a visual from below on any building with some age on it, from parking garages to office buildings you will always manage to find cracking. It's just the nature of laying a relatively inflexible material over a structure designed to flex...especially in a case such as the OP's, on relatively freshly disturbed ground...some settling under the slab is bound to occur, most likely resulting in some cracking. In short, his contractor, if he's worth his salt, will know this and cut the necessary stress joints...

Sent from my LGL35G using TractorByNet
 
   / Couple Concrete Pad Questions #27  
To the guys that say to pour it when it is 70 degrees, low humidity, moon in the second phase, that is all crap. Yes ideal conditions do exist but having any expectations of getting a crew there the exact day that the conditions are right is nearly impossible for a good crew. Living in southern IN. we always have high humidity hot in the summer cold in the winter as does most other places in the country. We cannot wait on "the" perfect day unless we are doing it ourselves.

I hear you there, I've tested concrete on several jobs on the St. Lawrence Seaway in February when it was so cold that a concrete airpot soaking in hot water was completely frozen before I could get the pot full of concrete and the lid on, and seen just the opposite on several wind farm projects locally, so I absolutely agree...If he gets the ideal day, it will be by pure luck for sure...may the gods of cool, cloudy, drizzly days be in his favor ;-)

Sent from my LGL35G using TractorByNet
 
   / Couple Concrete Pad Questions #28  
All concrete cracks: how does that work for building floor slabs with beams?? Do they all crack? What is the allowable crackage? :D

Cracks on the underside of a raised deck are tension cracks. In this case the reinforcing steel is supporting ALL the load and the cracking, if minimal, is of no consequence.
 
   / Couple Concrete Pad Questions #29  
Wire mesh is grossly oversold and always has been. Before fiber we placed (real concrete people do not pour they place; if you can pour it has too much water in it hence one of the sources of cracking) concrete w/o wire for simple low load bearing requirement slabs on grade with no problem. Today the ACI recommendations all ignore wire mesh. If you need reinforcement start with re-bar on 12" centers. There is not enough space or time to teach proper concrete placement in this forum. There is continuous research past, present, and future on this subject. Subgrade is one of the most important items. Someone mentioned saw cutting within 12-24 hours. Again, he is woefully uninformed. 12 hours; cracks are already formed where the concrete wants them not where you want them. Current wisdom is; cut as soon as you can get the machine on the slab. Trowel cut in joints are very effective if deep enough. Most are for show as they only go 1/2" deep. Go to a contractors suppliers and they have the deep cutters. That is why the real guys use saws as those deep hand cuts are a bear to do and labor intensive. I have said all I will on this subject, so go get what you pay for, then live with it..

Ron
 
   / Couple Concrete Pad Questions #30  
I disagree about wire, haveing demo'd many driveway slabs, a true 6" concrete slab with WWF in the middle is very difficult to brake up with a rubber tired hoe. Concrete with out wire, or with wire under the concrete normally brakes with only a hit or two.

Now techinically WWF is only there to prevent cracking from curing, and not as a reinforcement. For true reinforcement #2 wire, like found in reinforced concrete pipe or #4+ rebar in a grid.

Bottom line is its a concrete slab, don't over think it.
1. Compact your base well
2. Reinforce for your use
3. Order good 3000+ psi mud
4. Don't over wet it, but some water is ok (10 gallons or so, maybe 15)
5. Finish slick or broom
6. Cut control joints
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

2011 TRAIL KING LOWBOY TRAILER (A50459)
2011 TRAIL KING...
2006 INTERNATIONAL 7600 T/A DUMP TRUCK (A51406)
2006 INTERNATIONAL...
5K BLOWOUT PREVENTER (A50854)
5K BLOWOUT...
2019 Allmand Light tower (A49461)
2019 Allmand Light...
2002 Ford F-650 Crew Cab Dump Truck (A48081)
2002 Ford F-650...
2015 Ford F-150 Ext. Cab Pickup Truck (A50323)
2015 Ford F-150...
 
Top