Covering 8'x16' flat dump bed made out of heavy 2x8's

[oosik]

Gale,
When I went to choose on decking material, I saw that plyform and I also looked at what they call marine plywood. The plyform did not have T&G edges and the marine stuff looked like it had been on the bottom of a tanker for about 5 years, already. There is a TREMENDOUS price difference between Lowes in Spokane, WA and your lumber yard in KY! Both the plyform & marine plywood were $65 per 4x8 sheet. As I remember, I paid about $48/sheet for the 5/4 T&G exterior grade here. I also checked the price for two 4x12 sheets of 3/8 inch rolled steel. Found out right away it was too heavy for me to man handle and the price was truly astronomic - $700/sheet. The bed on the wagon has worked out fine. Final cost for everything, including the running gear - Horst, 10 ton - was $2695.

 

[boggen]

spray in bed liner

contact a local metal shop or like, and see if you get some 1/16" to say 1/4" rolled sheets of metal. in your wanted overall width and length.
you already have the 2x8's for support, your just looking for a liner, to keep sand/dirt from going through the cracks.

keep in mind of the "grain" if using plywood. so as you dump, your not causing a bunch of extra splintering to happen at the edges. along with keeping the grain going with direction of the dump. so stuff slides with the grain on off the trailer vs catching on the grain.
again if using plywood and goal is only to deal with cracks. get some 1/2" plywood. and lay it in link singles on a roof. with some over lap.
plywood is going to warp, stretch, bend, twist, chip, splinter away. for your intended purpose. don't put so many screws/nails in it, to make it solid. just enough to hold it in place while dumping. if it falls out while dumping, then will fix it with a couple more screws / nails / bolts and continue on.

 

[blueriver]

Save your used motor oil and brush the existing wood real good. .. After it drys silicone the cracks pushing the silicone deep with your finger. ... Simply keep the old wood well oiled and it will last longer than the truck

 

[Gale Hawkins]

Plywood From Standard To Marine Grade - Lumber 2 of Oklahoma City.

Here is some plywood options with prices from the middle America.

We plan to notch for the standards so they will keep it from sliding off when dumping more than just screws plus the heavy sides will be resting on the outside edges of the plyform. Since the plyform has sealed edges we will put the cut edges up front at the steel headache. Thanks for the ideas.

 

[SPIKER]

For what you are doing, I would look for some 14 Gauge Steel, cost per sheet is maybe 1/2 again what plywood would cost & will slide better & not cause issue. The steel can be screwed down and holes cut for side pockets easy enough. Once done pull it out & use for other jobs or stacked aside for reuse on the trailer...

That or like others said already have the 2x8s just seal and coat them with some used motor oil to keep it slick & lasting.

I would NOT put plywood down on dump bed that would have moisture between layers it might hold up for a few years but plan on re-doing the 2x8s a few years out and the plywood...

Mark

 

[Gale Hawkins]

Spiker I was get a price on that at church tonight. I plan to be trying to get the last trees on the ground but the guy that has been working for years at the local steel supplier and a welder on the side can give me a ball park figure.

I prefer steel but wood beds have pluses too. The Plyform would be more of a shop class project for the kids and cost under $200. It should keep the current bed and hoist system in the dry plus it will be reversible so we can use the other side and or remove it all together if hauling rip rap size rock.

 

[Gale Hawkins]

For what you are doing, I would look for some 14 Gauge Steel, cost per sheet is maybe 1/2 again what plywood would cost & will slide better & not cause issue. The steel can be screwed down and holes cut for side pockets easy enough. Once done pull it out & use for other jobs or stacked aside for reuse on the trailer...

That or like others said already have the 2x8s just seal and coat them with some used motor oil to keep it slick & lasting.

I would NOT put plywood down on dump bed that would have moisture between layers it might hold up for a few years but plan on re-doing the 2x8s a few years out and the plywood...

Mark

When ahead and got 4x8 per sheet price on 11 gauge (1/8th inch) and the price was $90 so about twice the price of plyform which is not bad but there will be the welding cost vs. no cost to install the plyform 3/4" other than for fasteners. I could get it seamed and bolt to the bed I guess.

 

[farmer2009]

One more thought would be to take the 2x8's out of the bed. And replace them with that 11 gauge. Might need to add a couple of extra cross members but for the cost of the 2x's and plywood you would have a permanent solution that would hold up to large or small rock. Just dump large rip rap in slow so you don't dent.

 

[Gale Hawkins]

I would like a good steel bed but I just picked up the 1989 F700 16' flat dump to use around the place (15 acres) but maining just because I wanted one. We do plan to move a hill to a valley up at the house so we can build a nice shop. Actually with the FIL 265 MF and JD 310B backhoe I am fixed for retirement I think. I plan to keep the stuff around until I am 80 if my bones keep moving at all.

The question comes as to how much to to spend to upgrade the bed that is functional today?

 

[Gale Hawkins]

I got a quote of $710 for metal and installing the 1/8" (11 gauge skin) so I am still toying with the idea. Since the truck sets outside and is seldom used it is a toss up. Picking up hay in the field metal gives you less traction but more slipping when dumping heavy clay soil is a good thing. I guess during the winter it could be used as shelter for short stuff on wheels.