CRACK! There goes the new PHD auger...

[daugen]

thanks for all the help.
I think the "before" on this bit looked like this:
Auger Screw Point - 2119415 | Tractor Supply Company
but since it's broken flush, I can't be sure it's the male end that broke off on
a big thick screw thread like this TSC one, but it looks familiar, but with a double fluted bottom sort of like a bent claw hammer.
I'm ignorant here, can't honestly tell whether it's iron or steel. It's certainly heavy enough, weighs about three pounds.

 

[ustmd]

I would expect your shear pin to give long before your auger..your shear pin is 3/8s? Did you "upgrade" to grade 5 or higher shear pin?

 

[daugen]

No, oem shear pin in place. That was my expectation also.

 

[gengine]

By looking at it, I would think it is cast iron, I could be wrong as I don't have it in hand, but it sure looks like cast iron to me. It's obviously the very tip of the auger, and in most cases, they are replaceable. The one I bought, I think it came from ebay for roughly $15 and some shipping.

 

[Ron JD670]

No, oem shear pin in place. That was my expectation also.

I obtained a Rankin auger with a well used 9 inch bit when I bought my used JD670. I would shocked if if the bit broke. I run this up to 2000 RPM. Almost every time I use it I break one or more shear bolts when I hit the one of many rocks that are everywhere on my property.

Regarding your bit, I agree with the other posters that was bad metal. I would go as far as to say it should be replaced. But, you might also want to replace the shear bolt. You'll need a couple spares. I would test the one now in there against a new replacement.
Best of luck
RoN

 

[BRBurns]

Add me to the "That cast iron looks weak" group. It does not look like a well made bit, and I would be surprised if the dealer does not replace it free.

 

[jmc]

Aside from the casting quality, good design practice calls for a fillet radius at the transition between diameters. Wouldn't be surprised if the manufacturer has seen quite a few of these problems.

 

[daugen]

I would test the one now in there against a new replacement.

what a good idea. When my DR Rotohog pull behind tiller came from the factory, the shear pins were solid steel. When I complained that they weren't breaking and the whole mechanism was getting worn and rounded, they sent me another set, this time looking like what I thought a shear pin looked like, one with two deep cuts in it. I'm sure there are many ways to skin this cat and make a shear pin, assuming one had the capability to measure shear strength. I guess too many people complained to DR that their shear pins kept breaking so they switched to a heavier duty one. Way too heavy duty for me, and when I switched back to the alternative ones, no problems thereafter.

So yeah, I'm now wondering what's in there...good point.

 

[nickel plate]

Hello daugen,
You've previously been advized on how to handle and resolve customer/dealer-manufacturer implement issues so I expect this one should go well for you.

 

[daugen]

Twice learned, never forgotten...
thanks

note no dealer names, no mfg name. I'm actually glad I misplaced the paperwork and therefore could say only that I was pretty sure it wasn't LP.

I'd like to stay out of hot water for awhile.