cracked axle housing

   / cracked axle housing #1  

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Had the dealer pickup my L4310 yesterday to check out why my rops bolt was leaking where the rops bolts to the axle housing. Turns out that the axle housing is cracked and has to be replaced. Dealer says that kubota came out with a special torque sequence that has to be followed when installing the rops. But they claim that the sequence is being followed in thier shop and they're still seeing the cracks occur regardless of how the rops is installed. Seems to be a problem with all the L-10 series machines. Some cracks go undetected unless you loosen the bolts. That is when you will see the leak. May be something fellow 10 series owners want to check out while you're still under warranty.
 
   / cracked axle housing #2  
Yikes. Good suggestion. It's hard to figure how the stress from an ROPS would be enough to crack a housing, or that a particular torquing sequence would significantly reduce the stress, but who knows. However, replacing an axle housing wouldn't be my idea of a good time.

If the cracks are fairly common, the situation really sounds more a case for recall than for warranty work. The ROPS on my Ford 1710 'U-bolts' on to the axles, and I wouldn't expect the mounts to stress the housings much. If the 'U-bolt' mount meets safety standards, I don't know why other types of designs would be used. Course, I'm not an engineer.
 
   / cracked axle housing #3  
I have had to replace cracked axle housings on a John Deere 755 & Ford 1910 Tractor due to the same problem. Somewhere along the line with the Ford, The U-Bolts were overtightened which caused the housing to crack, and the outer bearing to break. Exact same problem with the John Deere except it was a Bradco Backhoe Subframe which was U-Bolted to the Axle Housing.
 
   / cracked axle housing #4  
Thanks for the note. Yes, cinching down on the U-bolts would sure do it. Guess that would be an abuse rather than a design issue.

The subject has got me curious to see if my repair manual has torque specs for the ROPS bolts. It still seems odd to me that a tightening sequence would affect the stress on axle housings, but maybe there are some angles involved.

It does make for a good tip for us amateur wrenches (true even if people used to pay me to fix motorcycles). Cast metal breaks, it doesn't bend or even deflect much. People who lack a good 'mechanic's feel' should check torque specs and use a torque wrench when tightening bolts on any cast part.

That was on my mind yesterday while I was re-installing the thermostat housing. I also wiped some grease on the bolt threads before replacing them. Strip out the threads in a cast part, and you've got a big issue. Another good tip.

The thermostat was the answer to my long warm up times. Of course, somebody had put the gasket on the wrong side of the thermostat. So, maybe I had a new thermostat and a bad installation rather than an old stuck thermostat. Previous owners do the darnest things. Somebody on CTB referred to the DPO problem (Dread Pervious Owner). I shouldn't be too righteous though, I'll probably become a DPO someday.
 
   / cracked axle housing #5  
Had the same problem with my L3710. I noticed a leak on the left side at about 45 hours. The dealer replaced both sides under warranty the day after I called him.
 
   / cracked axle housing
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Tom, greasing the threads before torquing the bolts will result in the wrong torque being applied, unless the torque spec specifically calls for grease. We sometimes have over-torque failures at work due to lubricant or anti-seize compound on the threads when it is not called for in the spec. This may not be a big issue with a thermostat but it may be very important with other parts.

Andy
 
   / cracked axle housing #7  
Yep, Tom, Andy's right. Most (but not all, naturally) torque specifications assume clean nuts and bolts, but not greased. Grease and/or oil makes a new ballgame out of it.

Bird
 
   / cracked axle housing #8  
Bird & Andy: Perfectly true. Thanks for the reminder. For that matter, I seem to recall that torque specs are for new threads and readings are taken when the bolt is moving.

I picked up the idea of greasing threads from my father, an A&E mechanic, during a nightmarish experience when I first started working on the family car. Seized bolts or fatigued threads in castings can be problems of tragic proportion. Well, when you're a kid, lots of things are of tragic proportion. However, years later, bolts do come off without taking the threads with them, if the threads were lubricated-- thus reducing tragedy in the world.

I learned later about things that require definite torquing and tightening sequences. Hope I would have remembered if I was tightening a head. Of course, I'd also probably remember that using new head bolts is a good idea.

When I think about it, I guess there's really no substitute for having a good mechanics feel. There's so many qualifications to torque specs that they may not actually apply to many repair tear-downs and reassembles. However, my feel does seem to be a bit rusty. I checked the thermostat housing bolts after a few hours on the tractor. They were pretty loose.

Of course there's feel and then there's FEEL. The owner of a BSA shop where I did piece work used to laugh at us junior mechanics. He says: 'How can you expect to make any money if you spend all your time measuring things. I can't charge customers for your micrometers and dial indicators?' He says: 'Just wiggle the parts and you can tell if they're in tolerance,' and he was always right. Never had that sort of 'feel.' Wish I did.
 
   / cracked axle housing #9  
TomG, I'll have to admit that I very rarely have used a torque wrench, and think that is also true of most mechanics (which I am not). Head bolts are one thing that I would want to use a torque wrench and definite sequence on. And of course new bolts are the way to go, but I've rarely done that, too. Instead, I usually just use the wire wheel on my bench grinder to thoroughly clean the threads on old bolts. And on multiple bolt jobs, I never tighten one bolt, then go to the next. I just run them all down snug, then tighten them in a "star" sequence (don't know if that's the right word, but think you know what I mean).

Bird
 
   / cracked axle housing #10  
Back in my wrench twisting days, I must say that I always used such things as micrometers, torque wrenches, etc. Why?
Well, while I could tighten a bolt down by 'feel', and get it generally within the ballpark, the customer wasn't paying me for 'ballpark' he/she was paying me for an expert job to bring their 'pride'n'joy' back to near factory specks as possible. The 'near' was regulated by the simple meshing of new parts and old, you just couldn't obtain that absolute factory speck, but you sure could give an honest job!!! Guess work is for the shade tree mechanic, NOT the professional mechanic.
 

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