Cracked block, cast iron.

   / Cracked block, cast iron. #21  
Brazing wouldn't take much heat...and it's possible with simple Oxy/acetylene. You don't have to heat the metal up to melting point. It is slower, but reliable for patching and some joining repairs. I never worry about cracking with this process since the bronze/brass is softer and can "stretch" as it cools. I supposed you could use MIG brazing (Si/Bronze) as well and do it a lot quicker.

Brazing cast iron usually requires just about as much preheat as O/A welding it but is easier because you don't have to melt the base metal.
 
   / Cracked block, cast iron. #22  
All the shops said it must be totally stripped and bare.

That's a good indicator that they know what they are doing.

I agree with brazing being a good choice for the fix. I use a TIG and silicon bronze rod.
 
   / Cracked block, cast iron.
  • Thread Starter
#23  
Went and got tractor today. Took to our little play area.


.035 shielded wire with 75/25 mix 180 Eastwood set to E3.





My friend just wanted to help. He was the heat and air gun guy













So yeah, this was the easiest thing I've done yet. Really? I mean wow. Cut some grooves, drilled some holes, heated cases with torch to 400, made 1/2" tacks at opposite ends, rattled with air gun, brushed clean with stainless brush, and joined them altogether. I let it air cool to the touch, filled it with water and proceeded to mow 2 acres. All in all it took me about 2 hours to get set up, weld and put everything away. Probably spent less than $10 on the entire repair. Would I recommend this to another unskilled welder? Yes.


My little Beaver tractor is fixed and back up and running.
 
   / Cracked block, cast iron. #24  
I would say great job and that is pretty lucky. I don't gamble but that win would even make me buy a lotto ticket.
 
   / Cracked block, cast iron. #26  
Arc weld is right....you may observe some seepage...IF you do, and don't experience any major failure, you can put a table spoon full (or two) of grits into the radiator, and it'll seal it for a long time...(Yes, I have done it).
 
   / Cracked block, cast iron. #27  
If it got up to operating temperature and water pressure when mowing, I'd make sure it has the proper anti-freeze mix and add some Irontite leak sealer. You could use Bars leaks or something like that too but the Irontite is a better product. If it does develop a tiny leak, the sealer should stop it.
 
   / Cracked block, cast iron. #28  
Nice, if it does leak, it should be minor, I would put a coat of JB over it also.
 
   / Cracked block, cast iron. #29  
Nice work. That location on an outside corner of the case does allow for some stress relief.
 
   / Cracked block, cast iron. #30  
Glad it worked. As others have pointed out: Only time will tell if it holds. Actually, I believe it will hold fine and the heat cycles of an engine heating up and cooling down are the only thing that would concern me with your repair.

FWIW: I have had very good luck repairing castings on old antique steel wheeled hayrakes (that I still use by the way) with simple E71T-11 flux core wire in a wire feeder. In my case, I did not even bother with the propane torch preheat either on any of them. A steel wheeled hayrake takes a beating traverseling a rough field too. Often these castings are obsolete or prohibitively expensive and exceed the value of the rake if available so it ends up being a what have I got to lose scenario. Not a one of my repairs has failed yet and have lasted for years.
 

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