Cracked engine block!!!

[jpbear]

I have a NH 1630 w/ FEL. I was using it today and saw some oil under it. After closer inspection I noticed that the block is cracked. Probably happened because of the front weights I put on (and never took off) when I skid logs using my rear grapple. All to bouncing cracked to engine supports that eventually cracked the block. I believe it can be welded. Does anyone have and experience in doing this? What type of wire or rod shoudl be used? If welding does not work is there a place to get a short block for this tractor?

Thanks,
Joe

 

[kenmac]

I would say that the engine will have to be stripped down to the bare block for the repair.Probably use a nickel rod for the repair.Unless you have the means to perform this repair ,I suggest you take the block to a machine shop. The block will have to be preped to stop the crack cause, if you just weld the crack up it will probably continue to crack beyond the weld. I think it can be repaired, but not for the novis welder & I don't know your experences in this area.Looks like that bracket broke & caused the crack. good luck

 

[mjarrels]

JB weld...

mark

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

I would look for a different block. That crack may go through an oil or water passage.The engine will have to be dissambled to see what is inside. If the repair fails your out the $ for all the gaskets and your time. If you do repair it every time you are getting ready to do some hard work you will be thinking about that crack, is it going to open back up.

 

[JoeinTX]

Agree with majority of posters here. A cracked block is huge and you need someone who knows their way around welding to even begin a fix. If they are leery of it, look for a new block and/or have the dealer fix it.

Lot's of things can crack or go wrong on a tractor that you can patch up and do fine, but, the engine block isn't one of them.

 

[DieselPower]

Is it weldable, probably, the bracket will need to be removed to inspect the crack in the block under it. Will it last, it might, it might not. I have welded blocks that looked about like that before and they held up fine. The main thing is a good cleaning, disassembly, weld area preperation and proper welding technique. If you have never welded cast before this is not the place I would suggest you start practicing. Get a professional to do it.

 

[balper]

"Gecmis Olsun" as we say in Turkish.

It looks like the place it first cracked was welded earlier (either during the production or after it, was it a second hand tractor?)

The crack itself doesn't look too "friendly", it will be very difficult (costly both time and money wise) to repair and there is absolutely no guarantee it will hold.

I would suggest you go through some junkyards or such to find an engine that would replace this. You have a rather small engine, so you would probably run into something that would suit your tractor like a glove. I'd suggest you check the local laws before changing the engine and see what permits would be required.

 

[IslandTractor]

"Gecmis Olsun" as we say in Turkish.

For those of us who don't speak Turkish, I googled this phrase and it seems to translate as "May this be over soon". It sounds like it is a common supportive phrase used in Turkish as a response to hearing of someone's misfortune or illness etc.

Unfortunately, it sounds like more than "Gecmis Olsun" will be needed to repair this engine. I don't know how it would translate into Turkish, but my response to jpbear would be "Bummer Dude!!".

Unless jpbear can do a lot of the work himself (short of the welding), I'd worry that the repair costs ($75/hr or so) would shoot up rapidly. If it were me I'd at least get a quote on a new or rebuilt engine before I even started on a repair (other than to take the engine out to get a better idea of the extent and location of the crack).

 

[Egon]

After you remove the bolts etc. the chances that some real damage may come to light.

Don't even think of a repair. The cost will probably be equal to a new block as complete disassembly will be required and even after the repair it may not be right.

Get a new block!

 

[jpbear]

Thanks for the replies. I would not weld it myself but I am sure some of my welders can handle it if I decide to go that route. Like some have said it may work or it may not. Lot of work to find out that it did not work. I will do all the work myself, except the welding. Does anyone have a lead on where to get a block, new or used? Rather not go to the dealer but I will if need be.

Joe

 

[jimmysisson]

Ditto especially if there's an oil passage involved (otherwise why the leak?). I remember stripping down a Farmall A that had been mistreated, welded, broken again, to make access for the second weld attempt. As clean as could be, the repair can't last if there's stress on the casting there.
Old weld looks like factory reinforcing of the bracket, bet that bracket was broken for a while, then the bolt into the casting broke the front off the casting.
If no oil passage involved, this casting could be welded if there was a way to eliminate the bolt going in from the bracket, to reduce the stress. Maybe.
That's some tough luck.
Jim

 

[Raddad]

It looks like the inner frame rail used to be one piece and will need to be replaced. The top layer of steel was welded on to the side. How is the other side constructed? Do you have the same weld on the other side? Look at a parts blow up and see if these were two pieces.

 

[dqdave1]

Did you buy this new in 1999 ? Talk with the dealer; The dealer may be able to offset some of the cost. This should have never happened. CNH may help. Good luck.

 

[Soundguy]

Yikes... that's not a great place for a crack.. around that corner.. near that pulley.. etc. I'd be afraid of the passage ways inthe block that 'may' be in that area.

If it were on a flat piece.. I might considder brazing or stitching.. however that piece is also holding some structure.. looks like the weld on the metal rail gave way, and let the weight torque on the block.. thus cracking it. since the part will be under stress again.. I do not look for a weld to hold.. nor a braze or stitching.. too much stress, too much weight, etc.

If no passageways were compromised.. and this were a stationary power unit.. I may braze it up and see if i got water/oil mix... but on a tractor.. naa.. go look for a block..

Soundguy

Thanks for the replies. I would not weld it myself but I am sure some of my welders can handle it if I decide to go that route. Like some have said it may work or it may not. Lot of work to find out that it did not work. I will do all the work myself, except the welding. Does anyone have a lead on where to get a block, new or used? Rather not go to the dealer but I will if need be.

Joe

 

[greenedeere]

Around my part of the world there are a lot of farm equipment sales and autions.A good buy on some really good parts can be found,along with whole and complete engines where tramsmissions, axles, go bad and the poor farmer who has already lost every thing else could not afford to have it replaced or repaired.

 

[bamatoolmaker]

How old is the tractor?Search online and see if there is anybody else with the same problem in the same place.I dont know but it could be a bad casting to begin with.If you can find others with the problem band together.

 

[kmdigital]

The crack is low enough in the block that I'm sure that it didn't get into the water jacket area. It is down below the level of the crankshaft, and I have never seen any water jackets get far below the bottom of the cylinders, so that isn't a concern. I doubt that it is in a oil passage, but depending on where the oil pump is it is remotely possible.

Personally, since the crack was caused by external forces, not by internal engine forces I would probably try something like JB Weld, at least as a temporary fix. Obviously, you have to fix the broken rail first, but once that is done the stress is off the cast iron block, so there is no reason it should get worse.

If the JB Weld won't hold, then you might have someone weld it, and this may or may not work. Again, it has a better chance of success then a typical crack from engine stresses, since this isn't an area that should be subject to stress from the engines operation.

It all really depends on what your pocket book allows, and how fussy you are about something that isn't perfect on your "pride and joy" anymore! Based on what some people write, I think they take better care of their tractors then they do their spouses!

 

[DieselPower]

I highly doubt that JB weld is going to do anything. It isn't much more than just glue. It might stop a leak for a while but it will do nothing for the structural integrity of the block. Don't forget that the cast iron failed under load, do you really think JB weld is going to be stronger?

I suggest letting a professional take a look at it and see if it can be either welded or pin's and butterfly's installed. If it can be repaired it will probably have to be completly removed and disassembled so it can be pre heated to between 600 and 1,000 degrees before welding.

 

[kenmac]

If he can take (the engine) apart & put it back together to save himself some $. I have no doubt that ,a good welder can repair this crack.

 

[DaryleD]

I have a NH 1630 w/ FEL. I was using it today and saw some oil under it. After closer inspection I noticed that the block is cracked. Probably happened because of the front weights I put on (and never took off) when I skid logs using my rear grapple. All to bouncing cracked to engine supports that eventually cracked the block. I believe it can be welded. Does anyone have and experience in doing this? What type of wire or rod shoudl be used? If welding does not work is there a place to get a short block for this tractor?

Thanks,
Joe

Joe, I agree with your asessment that the rail broke and THEN put stress to the block. You have to pull it anyway, so why not try to weld it. I think that as long as you can brace the rail, and make that plenty strong by fish plateing it after welding the initial break, than you shouldn't have any more block issues if it and the block are welded propperly. I'm assumeing that by what you have said in one of your replies, that you have welders that must work for you? If they have been around at all professionally, or have read about welding cast iron, than they should be able to do it. Good luck on whatever you decide. As far as what wire, or rod to use, check with your local welding supply, or call Miller elctric, or Lincoln electric and they will let you know. I can't remember.
Daryle.