darrenjttu
Silver Member
I just bought a used 1998 3000hours jd 4300. On the rear tire in have some cracks in the rim around the lugs. Should I replace this rim?
Rims cracked rim
- Thread starter darrenjttu
- Start date
- Views: 9726
sixdogs
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Dec 8, 2007
- Messages
- 15,680
- Location
- Ohio
- Tractor
- Kubota M7040, Kubota MX5100, Deere 790 TLB, Farmall Super C
You can but just an 8" center with the lug holes drilled in and then weld it to the wheel after you bolt it in place. this is a pretty easy fix and saves buying a wheel. If you do buy a new wheel, keep the lugs tight since this is likely why it cracked. You can also just weld the wheel if you have the room. Can you post some pics?
OP
darrenjttu
Silver Member
I will once I figure out how to post pics
OP
darrenjttu
Silver Member
Here is the cracked rim.
davesl708
Elite Member
I would replace that. The metal looks fatigued.
sixdogs
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Dec 8, 2007
- Messages
- 15,680
- Location
- Ohio
- Tractor
- Kubota M7040, Kubota MX5100, Deere 790 TLB, Farmall Super C
Agreed. That looks pretty sad and I would replace it. It's pretty universal and is on many tractors so aftermarket or junkyard should be available. Keep those lugs tight.
Rock knocker
Veteran Member
Is that the paint failing, or the metal cracking?
OP
darrenjttu
Silver Member
It's the metal cracked. I recently painted the rims.
Gary Fowler
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Jun 23, 2008
- Messages
- 11,998
- Location
- Bismarck Arkansas
- Tractor
- 2009 Kubota RTV 900, 2009 Kubota B26 TLB & 2010 model LS P7010
That is a lot of cracks but it is still repairable. It will take a lot of beveling (V bevel equally from both sides ) and welding but it can be done if you have a welding machine and grinders. I would drill a 1/4" hole at the end of each crack where it is still running into the wheel, then grind a V bevel from each side so that you have nearly full grind thru but leave enough metal for the first weld bead so you don't burn completely thru. Then finish grinding from the other side till you remove all the crack and reach the new weld metal and then weld the back side.
Do this for each crack. The smaller pieces, weld up the crack from one side after making a small groove and then back grind to good metal from the other side and weld it up. I would use all E7018 stick electrodes and run them fairly hot to assure good tie-ins and no trapped slag.
Keep the metal cooled around the rim so it never gets hotter than you can touch with your bare hand and I think you can do this without removing the tire.
If you do this yourself, it will be much cheaper than a new rim but if you have to have a shop do it, it would likely be cheaper to just buy a new rim, assuming you can find one.
Do this for each crack. The smaller pieces, weld up the crack from one side after making a small groove and then back grind to good metal from the other side and weld it up. I would use all E7018 stick electrodes and run them fairly hot to assure good tie-ins and no trapped slag.
Keep the metal cooled around the rim so it never gets hotter than you can touch with your bare hand and I think you can do this without removing the tire.
If you do this yourself, it will be much cheaper than a new rim but if you have to have a shop do it, it would likely be cheaper to just buy a new rim, assuming you can find one.
Gary Fowler
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Jun 23, 2008
- Messages
- 11,998
- Location
- Bismarck Arkansas
- Tractor
- 2009 Kubota RTV 900, 2009 Kubota B26 TLB & 2010 model LS P7010
Yes it is fatigued, that is why it is cracked. Loose bolts allow the metal to flex back and forth till it fatigue cracked. There is nothing wrong with welding up the cracks as long as you remove all of the crack and drill a hole at the end to keep if from cracking further as you weld and grind on it.
Granted, the owner should have repaired it as soon as it started cracking and it would have been an easy fix. It doesn't take long for loose lug bolts to wallow out a hole and really work the rim over.
