banjobj
Gold Member
Buy the new one.
Craftsman Cordless Drill
- Thread starter BB_TX
- Start date
- Views: 1400
JDgreen227
Super Member
I've been buying various models of cordless drills since 1990, my first two were 9.6 volt B&D with keyed chucks and metal cases (remember those?) that set me back $120 each. I still have the drills and they work well but replacement batteries are $53 each....
Since then I have gone through Dewalt 12 and 14.4 volt, Skil 14.4 volt, various models of Craftsman 9,6, 13.2, 15.6, and 16.8 volt models, the drills have usually held up well but when the batteries need replacing, you are better off buying a new drill. My all time favorite was the Dewalt 14.4 with the XR pack batteries.
I have never understood how it works....one replacement battery is $50, a new "smart" charger is $60 when purchased separately, yet you can buy the kit with a drill, two batteries, and a case for $100, usually discounted.... /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif.
There's a website, voltmanbatteries.com, in Ohio, that specializes in remanufacturing cordless tool batteries, but I never visited it...gonna go check it out. They may be out of business now, who knows.
Since then I have gone through Dewalt 12 and 14.4 volt, Skil 14.4 volt, various models of Craftsman 9,6, 13.2, 15.6, and 16.8 volt models, the drills have usually held up well but when the batteries need replacing, you are better off buying a new drill. My all time favorite was the Dewalt 14.4 with the XR pack batteries.
I have never understood how it works....one replacement battery is $50, a new "smart" charger is $60 when purchased separately, yet you can buy the kit with a drill, two batteries, and a case for $100, usually discounted.... /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif.
There's a website, voltmanbatteries.com, in Ohio, that specializes in remanufacturing cordless tool batteries, but I never visited it...gonna go check it out. They may be out of business now, who knows.
BIGUN
Gold Member
Adding to what SnowRidge said. I have repaired a few battery packs myself. If you have a voltmeter, check each cell individually. The voltage should be around 1.2 volts if the cell is good, any cell reading under 1 volt will likely need replacing.
When replacing the bad cell, if you break the jumper bar off the dead cell at the spot weld you can then simply solder it back to the new cell.
I have found the seams on many pack cases welded together so tightly that it is easier to get it apart by carefully using a little cut-off wheel attached to a Dremel Tool.
Use caution working on these battery packs! Even a partially dead pack can still have enough current to cause burns or a fire if shorted. The bad thing is you can’t just unplug it when this happens. The burning will continue until you clear the short or it burns clear.
Don’t ask how I know this. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
When replacing the bad cell, if you break the jumper bar off the dead cell at the spot weld you can then simply solder it back to the new cell.
I have found the seams on many pack cases welded together so tightly that it is easier to get it apart by carefully using a little cut-off wheel attached to a Dremel Tool.
Use caution working on these battery packs! Even a partially dead pack can still have enough current to cause burns or a fire if shorted. The bad thing is you can’t just unplug it when this happens. The burning will continue until you clear the short or it burns clear.
Don’t ask how I know this. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
frank_f15
Super Member, Rest in Peace
its like the inkjet printers, sell you the printer very cheap and kill you on the replacement cartridges. get the new drill just make sure the batteries are interchangeable
