Crank no start - 2002 Branson 3520

[Zork]

... The solenoid you guys talked about is that right by the Injector pump? Pretty big looking?

Yes. Yours should be an exterior solenoid with some sort of linkage going to the IP. There are plenty of photos here in our Branny group

 

[bernardcuziillo]

Do you disconnect at the injectors or at the pump?

You don't actually need to disconnect the high pressure lines. Just bleed up to the fuel filter or wherever your engine's designated bleed point is. From that point on, the fuel system will clear itself of air, and it will go fastest at full throttle.

On the fuel cut setup, it's different with various injection pumps. For example, the Branson 7845 uses an external solenoid connected to a crank and shaft that goes inside its Motorpal inline injection pump. The 4520 has a distributor pump with an internal solenoid for fuel cut. Many decades ago, I was a mechanic on a fleet of Diamler D309 buses whose inline Bosch injection pump's rack had a fuel shutoff position.

 

[danpalka243]

Tomorrow I’m going to do a bench test of the solenoid. Should be able to use a battery to test it from what I’ve seen. Any other ideas on how to test it? Just figure I should see the plunger go in and out with this test. Here’s the solenoid:

 

[thepumpguysc]

if that solenoid has 3 wires:
Black is ground-
Red is hold, low amps.
White is pull in, hi amps.

Do not make the mistake of running the solenoid w a “hot wire” to the WHITE wire.
It’ll burn up the solenoid in short order.!!
Good luck

 

[Zork]

Tomorrow I’m going to do a bench test of the solenoid. Should be able to use a battery to test it from what I’ve seen. Any other ideas on how to test it? Just figure I should see the plunger go in and out with this test. Here’s the solenoid:

You don't need to remove it to test it. Just watch the solenoid when you turn on the key. The tip of your solenoid appears modified/welded. Maybe the solenoid is an aftermarket mod without the proper throw or pull. Your IP lever appears dry and possibly the welded "nut" and the linkage bend is binding on the IP lever.

 

[danpalka243]

You don't need to remove it to test it. Just watch the solenoid when you turn on the key. The tip of your solenoid appears modified/welded. Maybe the solenoid is an aftermarket mod without the proper throw or pull. Your IP lever appears dry and possibly the welded "nut" and the linkage bend is binding on the IP lever.
View attachment 878684View attachment 878685

When I turn the key it moves out and then back in right away.

 

[LouNY]

I would expect it to retract with power applied.
You can also operate your tractor by disconnecting the solenoid and manually operating the lever.
One way to start and work, then the other to shutdown.

 

[Zork]

When I turn the key it moves out and then back in right away.

If the solenoid moves out with power on I suspect that opens the fuel valve. Now, there is also a "hold" circuit to prevent the extended linkage from retracting until the key is turned off. If the solenoid opens the fuel valve with extended stroke on power on, then retracts quickly and closes the fuel valve, I would suspect the hold circuit/fuse or hold mechanism in the solenoid has failed.

 

[danpalka243]

Great point, I actually just watched the shutoff and noticed it wasn’t opening all the way. Problem solved. Must be the linkage I’m thinking. Thank you for everyone’s help

 

[thepumpguysc]

I was just getting ready to leave those instructions..
The solenoid HAS TO BOTTOM OUT INSIDE THE CASE.. and is adjustable with the nut..
If u need further instructions..on how to.. just ask.
Good luck