OP
Ole Orange
Bronze Member
Thanks for the info I think I will try a test under controlled setting against a fixed object real easy like, and see what it does.
cross over valve
- Thread starter Ole Orange
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J_J
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Perhaps you did not have the mechanical advantage to produce the crossover pressure.
Xfaxman
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This doesn't sound right to me. Seems like it should all be on one remote?
Or by "other rear remote", do you mean the other port on the same remote?
Pictures would help.
LD1
Epic Contributor
How or what supplies power to the crossover doesn't matter. When it works, it will dump fluid from one cylinder to the other.
I also think you probably didn't have sufficient force for it to work.
My truck in plow gear is 11000 lbs. Likely 3x's what your tractor weighs. And a 10' plow so lots of leverage. It is still hard for it to crossover under normal circumstances. Only hitting something with speed does it.
So having a lighter tractor, probably a smaller plow, and going slow...not likely to happen. But if you were going 7-8 mph+ and it was a hard hit, I would expect it to pop.
BTW, what size is the plow And what size cylinders?
I also think you probably didn't have sufficient force for it to work.
My truck in plow gear is 11000 lbs. Likely 3x's what your tractor weighs. And a 10' plow so lots of leverage. It is still hard for it to crossover under normal circumstances. Only hitting something with speed does it.
So having a lighter tractor, probably a smaller plow, and going slow...not likely to happen. But if you were going 7-8 mph+ and it was a hard hit, I would expect it to pop.
BTW, what size is the plow And what size cylinders?
OP
Ole Orange
Bronze Member
Answers to both the above questions--
1 rear remote using both sides of it.
My tractor weighs with loader and counter weight about 6500 to 7000 lbs
I have a fisher 7.5 HD plow with standard single acting cylinders that came on the plow.
I was pushing snow banks back along my 3/4 mile camp road going very slow perhaps 2-3 mph
The trip edge worked but due to the very soft road conditions the next edge of the plow then dug into the road on the farthest point out on the angle stopping the tractor.
A little more info when I saw the road last night while walking the dog the dig mark looks like it is 7 feet long where it dug up the road so.... perhaps it could not angle because both sides may have been in the dirt.
I have not had time to test it against a fixed object yet because I want to do this in the daylight and dark when I get out of work.
I will post on here for all as soon as I do.
Thanks for all the help I have learned many many things on here being a first time tractor owner.:thumbsup:
LD1
Epic Contributor
In snowy and slippery conditions you would have a hard time making it crossover only going 2-3mph. Not enough traction to force it, and not enough momentum either.
And yes, if both edges dug in, the cylinders would see little pressure spike.
And yes, if both edges dug in, the cylinders would see little pressure spike.
PILOON
Super Star Member
I agree with this conclusion.
I have used both plow trucks and my tractor is fitted with a push blade that has trip springs.
My trip setup is 'whole blade trip' and I can adjust the tension on the springs.
In that we don't yet have a good snow base established I am tripping my blade a lot at present so I go fairly slow.
On your tractor set up, when angled your blade could easily be cutting deeper when angled at tip or heel due to angle of attack unless you have a center pivot that allows your blade to pivot left/right to follow the road crown.
Large plow trucks have that center pivot while smaller pick up installations simply count on sloppy fits. (like 3/4 pins in 1" holes).
My tractor blade is somewhat tight fitted so I frequently scalp either right or left side when pushing but on a 6' blade it is not very noticeable merely leaving the odd inch or so surplus snow. Besides over time it all evens out and the winter drive is smother than the summer gravel/recycled asphalt.