CT235 V Kioti CK35

[vtfx4]

I am looking seriously at the CT235. Appears to be identical to CK35 and I know it is a rebadge Kioti. The ground clearance is listed at 9.9 for Bobcat and nearly 14 for the Kioti. Are they measuring differently or what? I think clearance will be an issue getting firewood in my woods, which are very rough but pretty flat.

I also have questions about weight, Bobcat using "operating weight" as opposed to shipping weight other companies use, and it comes out a good 600 lbs more that comparable Kubota's and MF's. Are they measuring that differenlty too.

I really don't want to step up to a 335 as it will cost about 3 grand more and I don't think I need a tractor size. I am going to check them out tomorrow, but any info would be helpful.

Ken

 

[teg]

Wonder if the difference in ground clearance is R1 tire vs. R4 tire? Do they have the same tires?



.

 

[dfkrug]

I am looking seriously at the CT235. Appears to be identical to CK35 and I know it is a rebadge Kioti. The ground clearance is listed at 9.9 for Bobcat and nearly 14 for the Kioti. Are they measuring differently or what? I think clearance will be an issue getting firewood in my woods, which are very rough but pretty flat.

I also have questions about weight, Bobcat using "operating weight" as opposed to shipping weight other companies use, and it comes out a good 600 lbs more that comparable Kubota's and MF's. Are they measuring that differenlty too.

You hit on a couple of the minor gripes I have w/ Kioti. The naked weight of
the CK30/35 is anywhere from 3058# to about 3300#, depending on where you read their spec. Buying a tractor based on weight is more important
than buying one based on hp, IMO. The Kubotas and MFs you are comparing
to are not truly comparable if there is 600# diff. The CK35 compares with
the Kubota L3240.

Underside clearance is one thing, but underside vulnerability is very high
with the CK....take a look at that long hyd filter than often gets bashed.
The Kubota and the Kioti DK35 have much less vulnerable undersides.

Finally, the Kioti and Kubota both have very good hyd implement pump flow
at about 8.3 GPM. To find out what Kioti's is, you have to dig thru the
service manual.

 

[vtfx4]

Thanks everyone. So what I took from dfkrug is that the DK, Massy and Kubota are better rigs than the CK35. The local dealer has quoted Bobcat CT235 (CK35) with hydro and bucket for $12,675, and the CT 335 (DK35) hydro and bucket for $14,942. Both are with my own financing with makes the 235 a little over $15k and the 335 around $18K. The Massey Dealer wants 17,500 for the MF 1529 at 0% for 72 months and the Kubota L2800 was around $20 with 0% for 48.

I guess my question is will I be happy with the CT235 (CK35). For that price it is pretty hard to pass up. I have a lot of stone walls to rebuild, maybe use my neigbors BH to pull out some stumps, I also need to pull up small trees from my back land to plant out front, and I have some weeded areas that will become grass. I will also be getting firewood yearly through rough woods, plowing the 200 foot drive in the winter and grading seasonally. Then when I am done, who knows.

Thanks,
Ken

 

[Jimmy Joe]

The dealer near me here in Wisconsin is advertising the ct235 hydro with loader and bucket for $13,900 cash price.

 

[vtfx4]

That's what I'm saying. The price is right. I just whonder if I will need the large Kioti DK frame. especially for the clearance. It sounds like the smaller CK has that hydro filter that gets smashed up.

 

[dfkrug]

So what I took from dfkrug is that the DK, Massy and Kubota are better rigs than the CK35. The local dealer has quoted Bobcat CT235 (CK35) with hydro and bucket for $12,675, and the CT 335 (DK35) hydro and bucket for $14,942.

Both prices are stunningly low. I do not know the Fergie and the Kubota
L2800 is way less tractor vs. these 2 Kiotis. You had better grab one of
those fine machines before the dealer is out of biz!

 

[Gittyup]

Ask the dealer about putting a skid shield under the CT235 to protect the filters. I know that this has been done by other dealers for their customers.

Not sure if you could live with gear, or even if available in the Bobcat. But, if so, that eliminates one of the filters. I have a CK gear, and while the filter is slightly exposed (bottom 2"), it would seem it would take a great deal of bad luck with something pretty tall to smash it up. So far I haven't damaged it.

Ground clearance of my CK is closer to the 14". The front tierods are the lowest part and I've bent one working in rocks. On newer models, Kioti has beefed up the tierods a bit.

The 335 has some nice features. But, it's a lot longer than the 235. If you have the room to maneuver it, and it fits your budget, then I'd go that way.

Something might not be right with the Bobcat specs. The list the CT122 has having more ground clearance than the CT235. I don't believe so.

 

[vtfx4]

I don't the dealer is going out of biz. It's a big dealer for Vermont Standards and they have been selling Kioti since '92. The prices are standard Bobcat prices for right now. Free loader and a huge discount for cash or own financing.

I checked them out today. the 235 is the right size, but I really don't like the look of that filter. I think I could rig up a skid bar at my neighbors gargage. Looks like you make something to connect to the front back hoe mount and then on back to the rear pretty easily. The 335 has a much bigger bucket that would be perfect for stone wall work. The 235 looks a little too small for that, so I would need to get a set of forks for another $400. I don't what I am getting yet, but whatever it is it will be delivered this week.

 

[IXLR8]

From what I know, there is not much difference between the CK and DK 35's. The DK is a little larger and heavier, but there is not much difference in loader capabilities. If you step up to the DK40, then you about double the loader capabilities. My CK30 has about 355 hrs on it, never hit the filters, almost took out the HST filter putting on the backhoe... but that was my fault. With the BH on, it's frame pretty much protects the filter. How do the loader specs compare between the CT235 and the CK35? If you are going to be doing lots of lifting that might be important. Folks that have talked to the manufacturer of the loader for the CT have listed their specs lower than Kioti's.

 

[dfkrug]

From what I know, there is not much difference between the CK and DK 35's. The DK is a little larger and heavier, but there is not much difference in loader capabilities. If you step up to the DK40, then you about double the loader capabilities. My CK30 has about 355 hrs on it, never hit the filters, almost took out the HST filter putting on the backhoe... but that was my fault. With the BH on, it's frame pretty much protects the filter. How do the loader specs compare between the CT235 and the CK35? If you are going to be doing lots of lifting that might be important. Folks that have talked to the manufacturer of the loader for the CT have listed their specs lower than Kioti's.

The DK35SE HST is 552# (18%) heavier than the CK35H. The brochure says
a half foot longer length and wheelbase. Nothing about track width. Hyd
implement flow is prob somewhat higher than the CK, too, but the marketeers
at Kioti don't put that spec in their brochures. The KL351 FEL on the DK
has 22% more lift cap than the KL130. I do hear the Bobcat FELs are
weaker, but I have not seen their specs.

I protect my long filter with a hoe frame, like you do, but most owners do
not use a hoe, and don't bother making a skid plate.

Is the DK35 more tractor than the CK35? Yes, maybe 20% more, which is
significant, IMO.

 

[vtfx4]

So the larger 335 will $2,267 more, a little less than 20% for 20% more tractor. But with the size of the larger bucket I will not need pallet forks to lift the boulders to rebuild my stone wall. So substract $450, making it $1,800 more for the bigger tractor. I am trying to talk myself into it. I mean who on here would go back to go back to their creator and ask for a smaller Di#% ?

They also quoted me $1,100 for an 84 inch Rhino back blade and $150 for a block heater. Sound OK?

They also charge to fill the tires and for warranty pickup. The purchase deliver is free. I do have a buddy with a truck and trailer, so worse case senario I borrow it if the tractor fails.

 

[IslandTractor]

Thanks everyone. So what I took from dfkrug is that the DK, Massy and Kubota are better rigs than the CK35.

I would not interpret his remarks that way. For starters he did not give a detailed review he just made some comments about the hydro filter positioin. There have been a couple (?few) people who have reported knocking that filter off but it has not been anything close to a major issue with the CK range. If you are doing serious woods work it would be worth considering adding some protection but for most purposes the CKs are just fine as delivered from the factory.

As others have noted, for the prices you have been quoted on the Bobcat version, it is very hard to imagine Massey or Kubota beating the deal for a similarly featured and powered tractor. The Kioti DK line, especially starting with the DK40se, is much more tractor than the CK35/CT235 (41hp vs 34hp, 2700lbs lift capacity vs 1200lbs on the CK35, about 1000lbs more weight too), so that is not exactly an apples to apples comparison.

When I decided to move up from my CK20, I initially looked at the bigger CK tractors but decided that the sweet spot was the DK40se. No regrets.

 

[vtfx4]

Now I am even more confused. I don't think I will need more lift capacity than the 235 has, and the 335 is not a huge jump in terms of just lift. So the 235 is fine there. The box blade and backhoe work I have to do is also fine for the 235. The big question is really ground clearance and woods work. My land is super rough with alot of rocks and logs and stuff. I will likely spend a bit of time putting in a few routes into the woods for firewood and will avoid the real nasty stuff. That filter just looks like it will get banged up, but it also looks easy to protect and i have access to steal and a welder.

So I think I will go with the 235 and get some forks for the bucket so I can rebuild my stone wall.

As for snow removal, what should I do? I don't want to get the mid pto and I don't want a snow blower. Will the bucket do the work, or do I need a back blade?

Thanks for all the input

 

[Dmace]

As for snow removal, what should I do? I don't want to get the mid pto and I don't want a snow blower. Will the bucket do the work, or do I need a back blade?

I am not sure why you don't want a snow blower but they are great. My rear mount 60" JRW snow blower is awesome and throws the snow like nothing I have seen. I have a good-sized driveway (3500 sq ft. +/-) which takes about 30 mins to plow or about 1.5 hours to snow blow. The difference is I use a ton less diesel in the tractor snowblowing vs plowing with the truck and there are no snowbanks to mess with. The driveway and yard look so much cleaner and getting in front of the shed and house stairs is much easier with the tractor then shoveling.

Moving the snow with the loader bucket is a PITA because it fills up fast and spills out the side. I heard a rear blade is good because you can angle it but you are driving over the snow first and packing it down so you can't scrap it down to the driveway easily.

We get a lot of snow up here in northern New England:

 

[Tim M]

I do quite a bit of woods work on my CK30 hst. I've got the Woods BH80 backhoe and the subframe offers a substantial amount of protection for this filter. I have not had any problems.

I looked closely at the Kubota and Bobcats when purchasing. The CK30 is quite a bit more tractor than the L2800/3400. The equivalent Bobcat was $2k more. In my case I needed a compact footprint for tight quarters landscaping so I did not really consider going bigger. The only other machine I was considering was a used Kubota L35 (same footprint as CK30), but you know used is used.

 

[IXLR8]

Moving the snow with the loader bucket is a PITA because it fills up fast and spills out the side. I heard a rear blade is good because you can angle it but you are driving over the snow first and packing it down so you can't scrap it down to the driveway easily.

I agree, moving snow with the FEL can be a pain. I just use the FEL for pushing back/moving the piles created with my rear blade. I have a 7' rear blade, angled it still covers more than the width of my track. For the 2 winters I have had my tractor/rear blade, I have not had any issues with moving the snow I have just driven over. I have 75' of paved driveway and 1/4 mile of gravel road I clear with it.

 

[vtfx4]

Thanks guys. It's not that don't want a snowblower, I just don't want to spend that much to get one. I am going to get a 7 foot angle blade to move snow and should be able to put it to use doing other stuff. I have my financing in order and am just about to agree on a final price for the CT235, a 7 foot angle blade, block heater, and bucket forks. I think I am going to skip on loading the tires as I will usually have something back there for weight and can easily add more. plus I will have to pass over my leach field from time to time and a little less weight will lower the risk a bit. I am going to fab up something to protect that filter before I get into the woods too much. I have a little rocky stream I have to cross that is my biggest worry.

 

[IXLR8]

Thanks guys. It's not that don't want a snowblower, I just don't want to spend that much to get one. .... I think I am going to skip on loading the tires as I will usually have something back there for weight and can easily add more. plus I will have to pass over my leach field from time to time and a little less weight will lower the risk a bit.

Snowblowers are nice, but expensive. I figured I could hire somebody to plow my driveway and road for about 10 years for the cost of a blower, which is why I went rear blade. I can also maintain the gravel road with the rear blade.. not so much with the blower. I have my rear tires loaded and most of the time have my backhoe (1000+lbs) on my tractor, no issues, so far, in 2 years driving over my leach fields. Then again, they are buried about 2' down under another 1' of gravel.

 

[vtfx4]

So should I load the tires? I will carrying firewood in the bucket with forks, so it could get pretty heavy up front. Plus I am lifting rocks to my wall.