Cub Cadet RZT50 shredding drive belts

[ccdirectt]

I have a 15 yr old Cub Cadet RZT50 22hp B&S engine. I replaced the drive arm, pulley and belt OEM. The pulley is eating into steel thing you can see in the images. It started about half into the season last year. I cut out a notch mid season/ had to have it going

, and it was OK for a month or so. Then it started eating deeper into it more. I did have issues with the left side not not pulling as strong, and went with 20w50 full synthetic and it fixed that issue about 2 yrs ago. It can not handle hills like it use to. I did replace PTO with a heavy duty one, not OEM 2 seasons ago. Motor mount bolts are tight
What is making the pulley dig deeper into that metal part on the frame? The images will explain it better.

 

[RandyT]

Something is definitely moving. Are the drive wheels bowing in at the top. I am wondering if some frame support isn't broken allowing the drives to bow in at the top changing the distance between the pulleys making the drive belt too long.

My second guess would be the grooves in the pulleys are either separating or getting worn allowing the belt to run deeper in the notch.

 

[Richard001]

Something is definitely moving. Are the drive wheels bowing in at the top. I am wondering if some frame support isn't broken allowing the drives to bow in at the top changing the distance between the pulleys making the drive belt too long.

My second guess would be the grooves in the pulleys are either separating or getting worn allowing the belt to run deeper in the notch.

Or the belt is just to long. Try one about a inch shorter.

Richard

 

[RandyT]

Or the belt is just to long. Try one about a inch shorter.

Richard

Not likely too long. Maybe OEM parts diagram has wrong part number which can be fun to sort out sometimes. And use of non OEM belts on MTD tend to not last long due to specific belt width and cut that are not standard belt widths.

 

[Tinhack]

Probably the wrong belt. Cheap, too long or otherwise, the correct belt won't allow that the happen. Cheap belts will almost always stretch. Also, all belts should be adjusted to the correct tension.

 

[the old grind]

When pulling back the idler to install a belt on RZT 50's deck a bolt head on the arm can catch on the deck and limit travel. Not recognizing that can lead one to use a slightly longer belt just to get it on w/o full travel of the arm & full spring tension. Too loose/long a belt results in spindles slipping. A belt of the right length shouldn't allow the idler to contact the deck. Buying used can leave one open to any mistakes of a PO. Be sure the idler arm tension spring isn't sacked.

I miss my '06 RZT 50 since I went up to a 61" deck in '15 but it went to a good home and is still in service. One feature I didn't feel a need for was the PTO cutting out when backing up. Next door neighbor bought a used '07 and I now have two to help maintain. One guy used 15w-40 for an engine oil change, didn't RTFB. I labelled his machine to use 10w-30 as called out for the engine and just use 15w-40 for the hydro. Easy machines to work on, IMO.

 

[Williy]

the belt should fit inside the pulley is what the problem I was having the belt was too FAT and didn't fit down in the grove very good it was a little thicker than the dept of the pulley

willy

 

[ccdirectt]

Looks like the pulley i bought was not OEM. I bought OEM in MTD packaging. Put it on. Drove it around for about 30 min without the deck on going on hills, bumps, stoppng and checking the belt. I've put 2 good yard mowing and so far so good. I'm testing it with the El Cheapo belts. I have 2 OEM MTD belts i will put on when i need it.
P.S. for Zero Turn Hustler mowers owners throwing drive belts. I was searching info on raptor belts and stumbled across this below. It may apply to some of the Cub Cadets if we look a little bit closer.
Hustler raptor drive belt problem

Comments below from the video.
My problem wasn’t the bolts falling out it’s the brackets that mount to the transmission it self. As you turn over time it seems to weaken the brackets on the curve which crack on the bends. I’m on my third belt, second set of brackets and a fan replacement. Just above 350hrs

Thank you, the same issue at exactly 100 hours that resulted in two new belts being destroyed over the last couple of weeks. Lost the rear mounting bolt completely and replaced now with a 2-1/2” long , 5/16 bolt with lock nut. I recommend checking and tightening the four transmission mounting bolts every 30 hours even with lock nuts as the heat from the exhaust takes its toll with the nylon in the locknut.

 

[MoKelly]

Looks like the pulley i bought was not OEM. I bought OEM in MTD packaging. Put it on. Drove it around for about 30 min without the deck on going on hills, bumps, stoppng and checking the belt. I've put 2 good yard mowing and so far so good. I'm testing it with the El Cheapo belts. I have 2 OEM MTD belts i will put on when i need it.
P.S. for Zero Turn Hustler mowers owners throwing drive belts. I was searching info on raptor belts and stumbled across this below. It may apply to some of the Cub Cadets if we look a little bit closer.
Hustler raptor drive belt problem

Comments below from the video.
My problem wasn’t the bolts falling out it’s the brackets that mount to the transmission it self. As you turn over time it seems to weaken the brackets on the curve which crack on the bends. I’m on my third belt, second set of brackets and a fan replacement. Just above 350hrs

Thank you, the same issue at exactly 100 hours that resulted in two new belts being destroyed over the last couple of weeks. Lost the rear mounting bolt completely and replaced now with a 2-1/2” long , 5/16 bolt with lock nut. I recommend checking and tightening the four transmission mounting bolts every 30 hours even with lock nuts as the heat from the exhaust takes its toll with the nylon in the locknut.

Thanks very much for the video on the Raptor. Glad you found the problem.

MoKelly