Cub Cadet zero turn won't turn right after 45 minutes. It will turn left

[emullet1]

My cub cadet won't turn right after 45 minutes of use but it will turn left. If I let it sit for a while it will operate again for about 45 minutes. It starts to vibrate and then make more hydraulic noise prior to not turning. I air blowed out all areas around both transmissions and cleaned it up but I still have the problem. I bought it new in 2005 and I have never changed the trans fluid which looks full. Any ideas for what is wrong will be much appreciated.

 

[BukitCase]

Check ABOVE the transmissions and make sure each COOLING fan has all its blades (10 blades IIRC) - I picked up a stick while mowing with mine (same model) about a year ago, and it managed to take out about half the blades on one of the plastic fans.

These things do NOT like to run hot, your operator manual says to run at full engine speed no matter the ground speed for just this reason.

HTH... Steve

 

[Daver1963]

Are you near a NASCAR track? Maybe your Cub got jealous and will now only turn left like they do.

 

[jp2code]

It sounds like the seals may be going out on the right.

As the tractor runs, the hydraulic oil gets warm and the rubber seals will expand. If those seals are worn out, the rubber will expand and the hydraulic fluid will not be able to create pressure for steering.

 

[BukitCase]

Another thing I didn't catch - if it'll turn LEFT but not RIGHT, that means (assuming you're going FORWARD) that the LEFT side is weak. Weak left side is also often just a tired belt - the way the belts are run, the left side starts slipping before the right side does.

"It sounds like the seals may be going out on the right." No, think about it a bit - if it'll turn LEFT, it means the RIGHT side is still driving... Steve

 

[jp2code]

Touche!

 

[emullet1]

I checked the fan blades on both transmissions they are not damaged. However, I believe it is called the vbelt is very cracked and warn. From I will definitely change that for sure. I will let you know. Thanks, emullet

 

[BukitCase]

When you get the new belt you may want more help - depending on what your drive belt idler pulley arm looks like, the manual may LIE to you and claim there's a square hole in the arm that you can put a breaker bar into and pull hard enough to overcome the spring tension so you can get the new belt on - mine had that square hole, but apparently some "rocket surgeon" decided to change pulley size WITHOUT changing the location of the "magic hole" -

Here's a marked up page from the manual showing (sorta) how I got around the (impossible to use) square hole - my comments are in smaller type.

(Good thing I'd already uploaded that pic, since the uploader is apparently having another "near death experience"...

Oh, also - don't be tempted to "go generic" on the belt - the factory, in their "finite wisdom", went in between sizes. The factory info -

754-04043 V-Belt, Type A Sec x 57.7

The last number is inches - 57 is too tight, and 58 will slip sooner. Good job, Cub/MTD...

 

[emullet1]

Thanks! I got it on and I will let you know if that corrected my turning issue. Have a great day!!

 

[BukitCase]

Soooo, ya gonna keep us in suspense much longer??!?