Curtis Snowplow

   / Curtis Snowplow #11  
I have no first hand knowledge, but I don't see why putting a snowblade on an FEL would cause potential damage to the FEL arms.

If anything, I would think there would be less potential for damage. If you're moving snow with you FEL, the FEL is going to be hitting the same obstacles that a blade would, but the FEL does not have the ability to trip like a blade does.

Therefore, if the manufacturer of the FEL is not issuing warnings about now using the FEL to move snow due to the potential for damage to the FEL arms, then I would think that the likelihood of damage is not that great.

Of course, you would not FEL in high gear, so you wouldn't snowplow in high gear.
 
   / Curtis Snowplow #12  
Actually, when running my Curtis snow blade on my B2710, I have it in high gear almost exclusively. In addition to my main drive, I have a circle drive that's somewhat inclined at one end. I have to drop it into M there as I don't have enough torque to push snow in H up the incline. I find it a lot easier to move the snow going faster vs. going slower. Since my driveway is paved, I don't have much of a worry of hitting anything.

My biggest problem is keeping track of where the edge of the pavement is. A few times last year, I did catch a rock sticking up out of the dirt right at the edge of the asphalt. The blade did what it was supposed to (flipped back at its spring loaded hinge.) It was quite a jolt on me too while driving it. There didn't appear to be any damage, however, to my FEL mechanism and all worked well with the bucket all summer. I did go all along the edges of my asphault this summer removing all protruding rocks.

One thing I had done with my blade is to have the blade angle adjustmet hooked into my tractor's hydrollics (sp?). This lets me control the angle (left and right) of the blade from the seat. I've got a little hydrollic lever mounted on the front of the right rear fender that lets me swivel the blade left and right.

Another handy thing I had done (at least its handy when I run the rear mounted snow blower), is a rear facing light. I'm usually out before sunrise doing most of my snow removal and being able to light my path when using the blower is quite handy. The headlights are fine when running the blade.
 
   / Curtis Snowplow #13  
Boondox
Here is a pic of my plow setup.
 

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   / Curtis Snowplow #14  
Ron Hall writes: <font color=blue>pickup trucks... do not have as heavy a frame as my FEL.</font color=blue>

I have a 2710 with a 402 FEL and a 1997 Chevy 2500 pickup. The ladder frame on my pickup truck is MUCH stronger than the 402 FEL frame. While its true that its designed to collapse in all the right places during a frontal impact beyond a certain speed, it is still very strong.

I also have a western 7' multi angle plow on the truck and plow about 750 feet of gravel driveway and 100x60 feet of pavement. While my plow hits frozen rocks and snaps back fairly often, it rarely, if ever jolts me inside the truck. I know the kind of forces that are being exerted, and I would agree with the dealers.
Also, you are usually not using torque and low speed power when you plow, but rather momentum. This fact favors a truck versus a tractor. If any of you in this thread have trucks, even smaller imports or compact trucks, get a plow for it, not for the tractor. I don't know how much those Curtis units go for, but for $3000 you can get a BRAND NEW plow installed. For $1800-2500, you can get a decent used one. For $5000, you can get a whole plow truck capable of plowing a driveway and hauling dirt/gravel in the summer. I would never be without a plow truck versus a snow blade/blower on my tractor. Another indicator to use are the professional plowers - they always use trucks.

PaulT
 
   / Curtis Snowplow #15  
Paul
My neighbor does professional snow removal. The reason he doesn’t use a tractor is going from one job to another at 12 mph, just won't get very many jobs done./w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif He also likes the comfort of a heated cab, cup holders, wiper blades and stereo radio on a pickup./w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif
I do this as a hobby and a chance to use my tractor in the winter./w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
Has anybody seen a bad set of loader arms from a properly installed front blade?/w3tcompact/icons/tongue.gif


18-30594-ronssig2.gif
 
   / Curtis Snowplow #17  
I could be mistaken, but I think the risk to a loader frame from plowing would be from plowing in high range with the blade angled. If something was hit, the force would rack diagonally. The operator would most likely loose control of the tractor. Somewhere I believe it was stated that top speed is 5 1/2 miles per hour for plowing, so if the operator kept the speed within that limit, conditions permitting, there should be no problem. I bought a Curtis for my L4610 this spring, as shown in the attached picture. It is not a quick connect, and I sure wish it was, but I plan on leaving it hooked up all winter. I can't claim any snow experience with this Kubota, but I have a few hours with a 966 Cat and Balderson blade in heavy snow, it is a hot setup.
 

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   / Curtis Snowplow #18  
Roughly, I purchased the plow and A-frame (short) as parts from the Western plow dealer. Then I designed and had the quicktach fabricated (see attachment) by a local welder. The Western parts two years ago were about $1200 and the fabrication of the quicktach was another $250. This does not include the cost for the lift cylinder hose and the two angle cylinder hoses. I attached the fabricated part to the belly mower plates and pivot it up and attach it with two bolts to the weight frame. Everything drops off with the plow when removing the two bolts, except for disconnecting the three hyd. hoses.
 

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   / Curtis Snowplow #19  
Ron,

You have the best reason of all to use the tractor for plowing -- MORE SEAT TIME!! /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif My problem is that I have to get the driveway done before I get to work in the morning, and I HATE getting up early/w3tcompact/icons/tongue.gif. If I were an early riser, I would probably sell the plow truck, get an old beater for hauling dirt, get a front blower for the 'Bota, and get a snazzy AWD sports sedan to commute with.

Since I would rather sleep any extra minutes I can get in the AM, I am doomed to drive the truck to work each day. On storm days, I will make 2 quick passes with the plow (at about 25-30 MPH), and head to work with the plow still on. I usually get there only 10-15 minutes later than usual, but since most others are in their 2wd cars, they drive a bit slower and we all get there about the same time.

Now, after retirement the story will change /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif But with 2 young kids, that won't happen for decades/w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif

PaulT
 
   / Curtis Snowplow #20  
Curtis says it connects and disconnects in no more than 5 mins... That true? (even without the Q-tach system, just removing the 4 bolts)

The Ben from MA /w3tcompact/icons/cool.gif
 

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