Cut or re-weld

   / Cut or re-weld #1  

PaulT

Gold Member
Joined
Apr 9, 2001
Messages
456
Location
New York - Upstate
Tractor
Kubota 2710
I need to re-fit a factory part for the linkage of my rck60-27B mower deck (also the same as rck-72-27B). My choices are to cut a metal tube shorter, or to grind off a weld and relocate a flange 1/4 over and re-weld it. The third choice is to WAIT until the dealer opens Monday and ask what the problem is, but that will require waiting for new parts to arrive - no immediate gratification.

What should I do? I have a friend who has a MIG welder, and we could re-fit the piece today and I could get mwoing today also. Any advice would be appreciated. This issue was first posted under 60 inch mower linkage part doesnt fit . More than 70 of you have read it, but I guess I was too confusing. Can any of you tell me why you didn't respond to that. I know lots of you have these mower decks.

Thanks for your help!

PaulT
 
   / Cut or re-weld #2  
PaulT, since I don't have a belly mower, I don't understand just what the problem is, or what could be done about it. I wonder about the cost of the part you're talking about cutting and welding. If you have the wrong part, it should be replaced under warranty, but I doubt the dealer will do that after it's cut and welded. So I guess if I thought it was a cheap part, I'd probably cut and weld; if expensive, I'd wait.

Bird
 
   / Cut or re-weld
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Bird,

Since you don't have a belly mower, and some others may not as well, I've taken some pictures. I know how you all love pictures. In this one, you can see the bar and the two tube/linkages that slide over it. It is taken as if you were standing behind the 3ph looking forward. The bar is slid through two holes in the frame, and the tab, or flange near the inner yellow mark is bolted to the outside left frame rail. When installed this way, the right tube butts against the right frame rail, and cannot slide over far enough to uncover the cotter pin hole (fuzzy arrow on right). There is also excessive play on the left. The dimensions are 5 1/2 inches from flage to cotter pin hole (yellow marks), left tube is 4 5/8 inches wide (black marks) and the right tube is 5 1/4 inches (white marks).

To review:
ONE: I can re-weld the flange 1/4 inch closer to the left side.
TWO: I can shorten the right side tube from 5 1/4 to 5 inches with a hacksaw (this option still leaves excessive play on the left side)
THREE: Call the out-of-town Kub dealer I bought it from (who didn't install it for me) and ask him whats up with this bar.
FOUR: Go to the local Kub dealer who was $2000 more expensive, and who (the salesman, anyway) said that any work I needed done would be at the "end of the line".

Options three and four seem like they may take days/weeks to resolve.

I am leaning to option one since I can be mowing before the day is out. Of course I am looking to see if cooler heads than mine should prevail. Advice please from all you cool headed thinkers.

Thanks a bunch

PaulT
 

Attachments

  • 2-44238-linkage_bar_1.jpg
    2-44238-linkage_bar_1.jpg
    118.9 KB · Views: 176
   / Cut or re-weld #4  
Paul,

Like Bird, I don't have a belly mower, and even with pictures I can't say that I completely understand your situation. I do have two general observations:

1) If I have a similar problem where parts just won't go together due to some type of interference, I try to force myself to back off before doing any cutting or grinding, etc., because I'm usually ticked off at that point anyway and anger doesn't usually help problem-solving. I mean no disrespect to your mechanical skills, but I think we have all struggled with a problem only to find that there was a solution we hadn't thought of. For these reasons, I recommend Option 3 since your selling dealer should understand the problem.

2) I think it is a fact that many less people read TBN on the weekends than during the week. There is usually a flood of new posts on Monday morning - I know this doesn't help you much now, but it may help explain why you aren't getting (m)any responses.

P.S. You also catch more flies with honey than vinegar, I've heard/w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

- Rob
 
   / Cut or re-weld
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Sorry about the tone of my previous posts /w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif. I guess I am just frustrated that the parts don't go together the way the (poorly docutmented) instructions indicate. I mean no disrespect to anyone who chose not to post. I thought maybe I made it sound too complicated, and wondered if I added pictures that would help. I also understand that most of the tractors were delivered with those parts installed, so few people would have run into this sort of thing themselves.

Your sugestions to wait until Monday is probably the right thing. If the correct dimensions are different than the part I have, I will still need to wait for UPS to do its thing. In the meantime, the grass stills grows....


PaulT
 
   / Cut or re-weld #6  
Paul,
Could it be that the frame rails are not on right? Could you loosen up some bolts that would allow some free play to put the bracket on the right way? And are you sure that the tab that you are thinking of moving doesn't go on the inside and not on the outside of the frame rail? You may have to take the frame off on one side and slide it thru and then install it to the other side. I would look at my B2710 now , but I am at work. I can look later tonight if you need me to.

18-30445-von.gif
 
   / Cut or re-weld #7  
Paul,

[[[THREE: Call the out-of-town Kub dealer I bought it from (who didn't install it for me) and ask him whats up with this bar.
FOUR: Go to the local Kub dealer who was $2000 more expensive, and who (the salesman, anyway) said that any work I needed done would be at the "end of the line".

Options three and four seem like they may take days/weeks to resolve.]]]

Options 3/4 offer the chance to at least KNOW (rather than "suppose") what the problem results from (wrong part/bad part? etc.) and then STILL decide, if you do, that you might as well fix it yourself. Days "lost" (to a man-in-a-hurry) in THAT case, +/- 2. (rather than possibly weeks).

If the dealer-fix seems somehow more desirable, you will only be able to judge whether it is worth-waiting-for, after finding out WHAT IT IS.

Either way, unless time is really "pressing" on you, I would take a day or two and consider it time well-spent just to be more sure what/why I was doing.

Just one-man's opinion /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif ,

Larry
 
   / Cut or re-weld #8  
Paul
I have been trying to follow your problems with mounting your mower. I have a 2910 with an RC72-27B mower. My manual includes the instruction for an RCK60-27B mower also. My manual does not show the part you have in the picture. Since the 2710 and 2910 tractors are very similar I went out to look at my tractor and mower. It appears that my tractor has a different linkage than yours. The bar assembly appears to be part of the tractor. I have attached a picture showing the difference. My parts list shows a new frame part after Serial # 11498.


18-30594-ronssig2.gif
 
   / Cut or re-weld #10  
Cuda,
What type of tires and what brand are they on the back of your tractor? can you post a photo of the whole tread?
Thanks,

18-30445-von.gif
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

UNUSED JCT SKID STEER QUICK ATTACH TRENCHER (A51244)
UNUSED JCT SKID...
(3) 8' High Pole Swinging Gates (A50515)
(3) 8' High Pole...
UNUSED AGT MH12RX EXCAVATOR (A51243)
UNUSED AGT MH12RX...
2008 GMC C7500 Altec LRV55 55ft Forestry Bucket Truck (A50323)
2008 GMC C7500...
2-Row Peanut Inverter (Chain Drive, PTO, 3-Point Hitch) (A52128)
2-Row Peanut...
2017 Bad Boy Outlaw XP 61in Zero Turn Mower (A48082)
2017 Bad Boy...
 
Top