cut pipe for plow cutting edge

[jimmysisson]

How do you guys who have slipped a pipe over a snowplow cutting edge cut the slot? I have an oxyacetylene cutting torch and thought to use that. Also have 4" grinder but that seems too slow. And do you cut the slot undersize a bit and beat the pipe on? Do the snots from the torch help the pipe "fit" correctly? The pipe is 2" nominal and the edge is maybe 5/8".
I thought to weld tabs on the end and bolt back to the blade somewhere, though it's a Fisher with a trip edge. Any tips there?
Thanks, Jim

 

[duroc]

I had my local steel yard lazer cut the pipe for my blade. They just made a slice-cut but it was a real bear driving it on the blade even with a 12# sledge. I angle cut the corners of the pipes (Y) at the split-cut so that helped to get the pipe started on the blade. I had a spare pipe cut this summer, but this time I had them take 3/8" out of the slice.

I removed the outer-most blade mounting bolts. Made 2 tabs and welded them on the backside of the pipe after bolting them to the blade. I also added an oversized nut for a spacer under the tab before I welded the tab to the pipe - otherwise, I would not be able to remove the pipe without first cutting the tabs off.

I think taking a pipe and welding tabs on it and bolting the assm. to the front or rear of the blade is a lot easier than slitting a pipe and dealing with that. My application did not allow me to do that without more work, so I went with the slit pipe method.

Looking at your blade, I think I would just take a pipe, weld tabs on it and then bolt it to the front or rear of the blade using a few of it's attaching points.

 

[jimmysisson]

Thanks for the info, Bill.
If I welded the tabs on and bolted to the back, say, wouldn't a frozen rock or divot dislodge the pipe? I guess if the tabs were good and stout and bolted in each edge bolt location. Maybe bolting onto the front would be more secure?

The slot would seem to have the advantage of the full bracing of the cutting edge. Evidently you had enough trouble getting your slit pipe onto the edge to sour you on that method.

How long has the pipe been on your plow? Any wear that concerns you? How much service has it seen - long or rough drive, etc.

I appreciate your response; please pardon the barrage of questions.

Jim

 

[jcummins]

I recently just did this, after seeing a thread that had it on this forum.

I didn't have a torch, had a friend that had one, and asked if he would do it. He did it, but not with a torch. He cut a slot 3/4" to 1" in width with one of those dual blade counter rotating saws. (I'm buying one of those after first of the year.)

Fit like a glove...first try:


Here it is with tabs....paint drying. When I bought this tractor used, it had two holes already drilled in the bottom of the bucket, so took advantage of the holes already there. I probably would have put them into the side of the bucket, had they not been.

 

[duroc]

If I welded the tabs on and bolted to the back, say, wouldn't a frozen rock or divot dislodge the pipe

I suppose it could, but don't think it would if they were welded securely. Personnally, I would install it on the front edge since that's the direction of travel....although I have seen them installed on the rear of the blade. I think the key here is to not lower the pipe too much, which should help make for a more secure mounting. Hitting a frozen rock, etc, the blade should just jump over it unless it's a huge rock - that's been my experience.

I guess if the tabs were good and stout and bolted in each edge bolt location. Maybe bolting onto the front would be more secure?

I agree!

The slot would seem to have the advantage of the full bracing of the cutting edge. Evidently you had enough trouble getting your slit pipe onto the edge to sour you on that method.

I agree with this too - especially the slit pipe, but whatever works is the key here. What I like best about the "bolt-on", is that the pipe can be removed in a matter of minutes if need-be.

How long has the pipe been on your plow? Any wear that concerns you? How much service has it seen - long or rough drive, etc.

I put the pipe on last fall and it's still in service. The only real wear is on the most outboard edges of the pipe, mainly from when the plow is angled. I figure that when I do wear through the corners, I'll just repair them with the welder.

I plow our road which is not quite a 1/4 mile and do several neighbor's driveways as well as my own....all of which are gravel.

I appreciate your response; please pardon the barrage of questions.

Jim

Not a problem, Jim! Glad to help!

 

[jcummins]

Do you float you FEL when plowing?

 

[duroc]

I recently just did this, after seeing a thread that had it on this forum.

Looks good! :thumbsup:

 

[duroc]

Do you float you FEL when plowing?

Most of the time! I know several posters in here may not agree with that, but it seems to work the best for me. I'd say that trial and error is your best bet. I do use plow shoes too.

 

[jimmysisson]

So you use shoes with your bucket? How do they work? I have some for my plow but when it snows early and the drive is soft they don't seem to be ever big enough!
Jim

 

[Colonel Monk]

I recently just did this, after seeing a thread that had it on this forum.

I didn't have a torch, had a friend that had one, and asked if he would do it. He did it, but not with a torch. He cut a slot 3/4" to 1" in width with one of those dual blade counter rotating saws. (I'm buying one of those after first of the year.)

Yo, what kind of cutter are you talking about above? Never heard of one, instant tool envy!! Thanks

CM

 

[jcummins]

Yo, what kind of cutter are you talking about above? Never heard of one, instant tool envy!! Thanks

CM

Do not know the brand he had, but similar to this. He said the biggest problem with it....is cutting a straight line. He said he had a death grip on it the whole time....but it cut it. It's one of those tolls you don't use it much, but for certain jobs, nothing beats it.

Shop DualSaw 6 1/4" Dual Blade Circular Saw - Corded at Lowes.com

 

[duroc]

So you use shoes with your bucket? How do they work? I have some for my plow but when it snows early and the drive is soft they don't seem to be ever big enough!
Jim

When I responded to "Do you float you FEL when plowing?", posted by "jcummins", I thought that I was responding to you. I don't plow snow with my FEL, I plow with my QA plow in the float position - most of the time. Sorry for any confusion, it was just one of my senior moments. Lol!

Snow Equipment Owning/Operating Pictures of your snow weapons - Page 160 Post # 1595

 

[bcp]

Yo, what kind of cutter are you talking about above? Never heard of one, instant tool envy!! Thanks

CM

Here's another one. Interesting video, too.

Double Cut Saw - Huge Savings on this 5" Double Cut Saw

Bruce

 

[jimmysisson]

"I don't plow snow with my FEL, I plow with my QA plow in the float position"
That's a good idea to have the extra plow shoes on the back of the frame near the loader. I can see why you use the float position. I still have a tendency to raise and lower the loader frame to change the angle of attack of the cutting edge. Some parts of my drive are shaded and need more cutting; others get more sun and clear easily. Thanks for your responses. May get to test things soon!
Jim

 

[GPintheMitten]

I have a metal cutting circular saw I bought at Harbor Freight. I haven't tried to cut the length of a pipe but it works good for cutting mild steel. If I were going to cut the length of a pipe with it I would create some sort of jig for both safety and keeping the cut straight. Mine is something like this. 5-3/8" Metal Cutting Circular Saw

 

[jgayman]

These types of little saws work great! I have the Makita cordless equivalent. Since I have several of the LXT Lithium-Ion tools I was able to buy the bare tool for a great price. It takes a similar 5-3/8 blade. I have both fine and course tooth blades. For straight cuts it is the poor man's plasma cutter.

 

[jcummins]

These types of little saws work great! I have the Makita cordless equivalent. Since I have several of the LXT Lithium-Ion tools I was able to buy the bare tool for a great price. It takes a similar 5-3/8 blade. I have both fine and course tooth blades. For straight cuts it is the poor man's plasma cutter.

View attachment 347610

That saw isn't a dual blade...counter rotating blade. The ones with that feature was the one I thought did such a great job at cutting metal. BUT, also it seems the ones with that blade have no depth control on them.

So....can someone say how good the dual blade saws are relative to the single blade ones?

 

[jgayman]

Those dual-blade saws are okay for sheet metal or wood but they aren't in the same league as the 5" single blade saws for thicker mild steel. These saws use a smaller version of the carbide-tipped blade that is used in larger cold cut chop saws. The thickest I've cut so far is 1/4" flat bars and it went through it like butter. Milwaukee makes a 8" circular saw that is very similar.

 

[Colonel Monk]

Do not know the brand he had, but similar to this. He said the biggest problem with it....is cutting a straight line. He said he had a death grip on it the whole time....but it cut it. It's one of those tolls you don't use it much, but for certain jobs, nothing beats it.

Shop DualSaw 6 1/4" Dual Blade Circular Saw - Corded at Lowes.com

Cool, thanks!

Yeah, I could see that being tough on such a big workpiece, but it looks perfect for cutting small steel pieces, and might be easier than a cutting disc on grinder.... Want One!

 

[srs]

I have both fine and course tooth blades.
View attachment 347610

jgayman, Regarding the blades, when do you use the fine course blade vs using the course tooth blade? Thanks. Stanley