Cutter Setup

[MikePA]

Attached is a collage of my Woods BB60. Would you other folks who have a BB60 check your cutter setup and compare it to mine? I was under the impression that the toplink should be able to swing through and with the bolt (circled) that can't happen. Also the cutter, as delivered by the dealer, has a good tilt towards the tractor. Is this right?

 

[beenthere]

If mine, I would have the bolt out of the yoke where the top 'link' connects. I think you are right, that the top 'link' should be able to swing through.

For the mower height (front versus rear), you should decide on the height of the trailing wheel (your pick) and set it for that height. Then you can adjust the front height with the 3pt arms (position control). Usually the rotary cutter works best by the front being just a bit lower than the back. Of course, when the tractor wheels go into a dip or over a rise, this height difference will change.

I adjust the length of the top 'link' so the drive shaft does not contact the deck when the 3pt is fully raised.

Others may have a different take on this setup, but I like the way my rotary cutter operates this way.

Hope this helps.

 

[MikePA]

<font color=blue>I adjust the length of the top arm so the drive shaft does not contact the deck when the 3pt is fully raised.</font color=blue>
By 'top arm' do you mean the toplink on the 3ph or something on the cutter?

Thanks for the reply.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

<font color=blue>...the cutter, as delivered by the dealer, has a good tilt towards the tractor...</font color=blue>

By having the front of the cutter... 1 - 2 inches lower than the rear... you actually need less PTO hp to cut (in theory-you're cutting it once) and in turn you can also travel faster...

If the front of the cutter is level with the rear... it will mulch/shred the material and uses more PTO hp (in theory you are cutting it twice)

I'm not familiar with this Woods toplink hookup... but it appears it could be used in the manner pictured with a "quick hitch" & normal hookup (having two holes, and the mounted bolt keeps the swivel out for a "quick hitch" to hook up)

Also in transport position, this bolt could help keep the front of the cutter from contacting the PTO shaft, by not allowing the swivel to "swing back through"...

 

[radman]

There really isn't a reason for the toplink to swing all the way through. I believe the bolt you circled, probably has a spacer over the bolt and between the sides of the toplink. This would serve to give strength to the toplink and prevent it from spreading or narrowing. I would leave it alone.
Typically I like the cutter to be level with the ground when mowing. Adjust the height of the rear wheel where you want the mower to cut. Use the lift arms on the tractor to set the front to the same height and carry the weight of the front of the cutter. Once everything is set, the tractor toplink should not be carrying any weight and there should be a slight flex or dip at the site of the tractor toplink and mower connection. Adjust the toplink accordingly to obtain this slight flex. This slight flex allows the mower to better follow the contour of the ground. Most all newer cutters are this way. I have and old cutter and use a chain as a toplink to acheive the same effect.

 

[beenthere]

You are right - the top link on the 3pt. Sorry not to make that clear.

 

[MikePA]

Thanks, John. From your description it sounds as if the cutter is set up properly. The cutter is supposed to support a quick hitch attachment. What about shortening the top link to prevent the deck from hitting the PTO driveshaft?

 

[Darren]

The toplink should attach close to a position directly above the lift pins. I have a different Woods model which has an A frame type arrangement with the lower legs of the A fastened onto the threaded side of the lift pins. The top of the A has an opening for the toplink.

The circled piece on your machine is an attachment point on mine for a flat bar that runs from that point to the top of the A on the front of the mower. The bar acts as a brace for the A and another adjustment.

 

[JohnMiller3]

When I adjust an implement in the transport position, I look for a few things…

Tire Clearance, PTO shaft clearance, and secure anti-sway chains…

On tire clearance, transport means I drive down the road @ 20+ mph… I want more than a mere inch or two clearance from those rear tires, whether I have my 1400 lb. Rotary cutter or ~~950 lb. 3-bottom plow hooked up…

PTO shafts once bent are junk, and too darn expensive to replace… and once bent if used will cause gearbox seal problems, tractor pto seal problems, causing dangerous vibrations and gets you in a catch-22 situation…

In transport position, those anti-sway chains are tightened down so the implement is “now” an extension of the tractor…- if not… you get moving down the road, with that heavy implement slowly swaying side to side and pretty soon it becomes uncontrollable… it’s the tail wagging the dog now… and your off the road and dead…

(attached is a closeup of my Brown cutter in transport position…)

 

[BKColeman]

Mike,

My cutter does not have that bolt. It will swing freely through. I believe the manual says it should.

As far as the height, you're correct, it does have a tilt toward the tractor of an inch or so. The manual recommends making it level only to shred. I changed mine once as a test and went over some dead limbs, hoping to shred them better. There wasn't much difference I could tell, but it might not have been a good test. As I am mostly mowing, w/ little 'bush-hogging' so far, I leave it with the tilt as you have it.

As far as being quick-hitch compatible, I'm not sure. The manual seems to suggest it is, which might be why you have that bolt. But the brochure I have and the web site only list the medium duty as being quick-hitch compatible, not the standard duty.

I also try to make sure the toplink isn't supporting any of the weight when mowing. It allows it follow the contour of the ground a little better when there is a little play.

--Brad