Cutting 11ga. plate

   / Cutting 11ga. plate #1  

MoArk Willy

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Location
Lampe, Missouri
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Kubota B2320
I have a table that I want to put a metal top on. I am thinking that a 11ga plate would be fine.
I can get a sheet of that for about $90 locally. I wanted to have it cut into a few sizes so I could use it for other fabrications I have planned.
The steel supply quoted $150 for cutting it into 5 pieces. I thought that was a bit extreme.
Now I am considering purchasing the sheet and cutting it myself.
Sooooo.
I do not have a plasma cutter or torch.
I do have a grinder but I can't see that being very practical to get straight cuts.
Of course I do not have a shear available to me.

What methods will work well for doing this?
I just watched a video with a guy cutting a piece of 3/16" plate with a circular saw and a metal cutting blade.
Is that the route I should go?
Or is it worth it to just pay the steel shop and have them do it? I am not opposed to doing it myself but I am evaluating the way to do that.
Any ideas or help will be greatly appreciated.
 
   / Cutting 11ga. plate #2  
The circular saw blades are very effective. I've used them for doing the lion's share of cuts on structural steel.
Dress for the task! those red hot bullets fly everywhere!
 
   / Cutting 11ga. plate
  • Thread Starter
#3  
The circular saw blades are very effective. I've used them for doing the lion's share of cuts on structural steel.
Dress for the task! those red hot bullets fly everywhere!
Thank you.
That was what I was hoping for. I can pick up a cheap saw and a good blade and have something that I can use just for steel.
Besides I like buying more tools.
Thanks for your input.
 
   / Cutting 11ga. plate #4  
A circular saw with metal blade will work since this isn't something you will do a lot of. One suggestion I'll make, don't try to draw lines and manually follow them to cut. Instead, measure how much off-set you will need from the edge of the saw base to the blade then use a 1x4 or something else clamped to the sheet as a guide. That will produce a much smoother and straighter cut. It will also be faster since you won't have to be watching the blade to try and follow a mark on the material.
 
   / Cutting 11ga. plate #5  
I agree with the above suggestions of a metal cutting circ saw blade.

FYI (and imo) if your five pieces you needed cut were square in shape, your metal supplier was wanting way too much money for shearing that sheet. Especially if the sheet was to be purchased from them.
 
   / Cutting 11ga. plate
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Bikerdib. I cut a lot of sheet goods, plywood and such and am very accustomed to layout and cutting with guides. I have done quite a bit of carpentry over the years. A guide would by my only way to go.
Big Barn. Yeah, I thought it was quite high myself. And they were supplying the sheet goods. The estimate calculated 2 hours to make the cuts. I can't imagine what process would take that long. Scissors maybe?
Do either of you have a recommendation for the saw blade you would use?
Maybe I will retire my old circular saw for metal work and buy a new one for my woodworking project. All in all it will still be cheaper than the $150 they want to cut the sheet to size.
And thanks again for your suggestions and help.
 
   / Cutting 11ga. plate #7  
Also know that a typical circular saw is going to run at much higher RPMs than a dedicated 'dry cut' saw. This will be very hard on the blades. Ideally find something less than 3600 rpms. 1800 would be best. Some circulars are up to 5400rpm. Bad idea. That said, if you have just a bit cutting in 1/8in material, using an existing 'wood' cutting saw with a metal blade can get you by.
 
   / Cutting 11ga. plate #8  
If you're going to get a circular saw, what about one of these:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/evolution-7-1-4-in-9-amp-corded-circular-saw-with-steel-shoe-and-hard-case/1000129715?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-tol-_-google-_-pla-_-129-_-soshandheldpowertools-_-1000129715-_-0&gclid=Cj0KCQjwp5_qBRDBARIsANxdcino0vdmsrSX550DK3URta4D9YBlf3c9wHyDDRMuOukbgqeKY975ClAaArUEEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

I do not have one, but from all I've read they might be a good choice. And last time I was in HF I thought I saw a knockoff version of it, but I can't find it on their website.
 
   / Cutting 11ga. plate #9  
For "on the cheap", get one of these for $30 (with 20% coupon)
7-1/4 in. 12 Amp Heavy Duty Circular Saw With Laser Guide System

And one of these for $19
7-1/4 in. 48T Metal Cutting Circular Saw Blade

The blade is an in-store only item, in fact this is the first time I've even seen it mentioned online -

I've used that exact combo to cut 16 gauge, 2 at a time (with guide, of course) - works fine, blade still cuts after about 30 feet (doubled sheets), haven't done any in a few months. I have NOT tried thicker stuff yet. I HAVE read of others doing up to 1/4" plate, but no personal experience on that yet.

For crosscut stuff there's big and small bandsaws and the evosaw380.

Note that the blade is "rated" to 8000 rpm, saw is 5500 rpm. My saw worked the first two times, then wouldn't - took it apart, slave labor didn't bother to tighten 2 of the wires to the switch. Tightened all the connections, used it afterward to cut up about a dumpster load of old siding (used a "construction" blade for that, the metal cutting blade seems to ONLY work for that.)

I have 3 OTHER circ saws (4 if you count the Milwaukee beam saw) but don't use those for any "iffy" stuff, one's a no longer made left blade porter cable that NOBODY gets to use but me, 'nuther one's a Skil worm drive, then a dewalt 6-1/2" 18 volt.

Each has their uses, but the HF saw gets any/all "demolition derby" stuff, 'nuther $30 would replace it if I accidentally dropped the backhoe bucket on it :laughing:

HTH... Steve

WARNING - that HF saw is NOT intended for metal cutting and does NOT have anywhere NEAR as much chip control, I STRONGLY recommend welding leathers, gloves and a face shield if you do this - one of their 30" magnetic sweepers for afterward is a good plan too...
 
   / Cutting 11ga. plate #10  
Also know that a typical circular saw is going to run at much higher RPMs than a dedicated 'dry cut' saw. This will be very hard on the blades. Ideally find something less than 3600 rpms. 1800 would be best. Some circulars are up to 5400rpm. Bad idea. That said, if you have just a bit cutting in 1/8in material, using an existing 'wood' cutting saw with a metal blade can get you by.

Correct. You really need a saw that is Made for steel cutting.
 

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