Cutting a ROPS - opinions

[Jay4200]

This is just food for thought - maybe a Spring/Summer project, if at all.

I know ROPS modifications are typically a no-no, but I really want to fit my L4200 in my garage, and my single-piece ROPS makes it impossible. I have the length, but I'm coming up a couple of inches shy on height, thanks to the ROPS height.

I was thinking a way to modify the ROPS so I could shorten it for garage storage, but would actually make it stronger. Cut the ROPS in the middle of the straight side sections, then attach a square-stock sleeve that would slide over the ROPS tubing on either side. Set with 3" of overlap on the top piece and 5-6" of overlap on the bottom. Weld to the top piece and drill and pin to the bottom with 5/8" trailer hitch pins. This way, the top could be easily removed for storage, and the sleeve over the joint would be stronger than the original tube. It should be significantly stronger than the folding ROPS that all of the new tractors use now too.

What do you think?

Jay

 

[Buckeye_Jim]

Jay,

It seems to come down to getting your tractor into your garage and giving up the your right to to sue the manufacture over a failure in the ROPS because you have modified it.

Your intended modifications sound to me that the possibility of failure is pretty remote. BTW, my neighbors New Holland and my Branson have collapsible ROPS. So, your modifications would just be the same as is the usual practice.

Jim

 

[Mrwurm]

Sounds reasonable to me. I would do it if I needed to.

 

[RoyJackson]

If your tractor had a folding ROPS as an option, why not just buy one of those?

Modifying your ROPS will invalidate any warranty you have...probably for the whole tractor.

As far as strength...although I agree with your design in theory, there's been no testing to prove your theory of greater strength. Also, by reducing the height of the ROPS, you are reducing the envelope of safety.

It's your tractor...as long as you know the risks involved in modifying your ROPS, it's your decision.

 

[ronjhall]

What warranty. His tractor has 2300 hrs on it. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
Buying a Folding ROPS is a good option though. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[RoyJackson]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( What warranty. His tractor has 2300 hrs on it. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
Buying a Folding ROPS is a good option though. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif )</font>

Wow...I guess the warranty isn't an issue then...

BTW, when a backhoe is added to the 790 Deere; the ROPS is extended. The 790's ROPS is bolted together using two cast elbows for the upper corners. Those bolts (I don't know the grade, but I'd guess Grade 8) in the elbows are removed, the extention pcs added, then the assembly is bolted together.
So, there you go...another method of assembling your shortened ROPS.

 

[RonR]

I don't think warranty is the issue (only if doing it on a newer tractor). To me, the big issue is liability if/when you lend the tractor out or sell it.

I am contemplating converting my ROPS to folding or building a folding one (can't buy a folding one to fit it), but if I do, I will leave explicit instructions that if/when the tractor is sold, it is to be converted back to original.

I am not a lawyer, but I can easily see liability tracking back to ME years down the road (or to my estate) if the trail of evidence shows that I am the one that CHANGED the Factory CERTIFIED ROPS to something else. It would be nearly impossible to prove that my homemade ROPS is as good as the factory one. The plantiff's lawyers could challenge the material, the design, the welding, ad naseum and likely win. I think the liability is MINE forever.

Now, you might say the risk is small, and I'd agree, but for the cost of going back to OEM, I won't chance it, nor do I want my estate to chance it.

Just my two cents.

ron

 

[drm]

Jay,

Your statement that it would make the ROPS stronger is incorrect. Placing a hole in the ROPS will weaken it at that point. Unless you or an engineer has analyzed the failure mode of the ROPS, this modification may not be as sound as you suggest. A little bit of analysis possibly a FEM model or at least a yield line analysis should be in order to determine the best location and a minimum amount of overlap required. The trick is to determine the direction and magnitude of force that needs to be resisted. The ROPS works during dynamic events making the determination of forces more difficult. Nonetheless, you suggested modification does not sound outrageous just a little weak and in need of some analysis.

I do not know the strength of the trailer hitch pin but I would use Grade 8 material or better. This link will need to be analyzed along with the weld to the ROPS. Some materials are weakened by welding and others are difficult to properly weld. Make sure you know the composition and welding characteristics.

Also, the liability issue is substantial and may extend farther than you think.

Take a serious look at modifying your door opening or the installation of an OEM folding ROPS. These options may be easier and less taxing in the long run.

…Derek

 

[daTeacha]

If I was determined to do what you are talking about, I'd include a crossmember between the sleeves you put in. Cut it high enough to allow the cross member to fit around your body, of course. I'd look at a replacement with the factory item, though. Check the mounting system. Sometimes the rigid and folding ROPS attach to the tractor differently. Some go through the fenders and others between them.

 

[rambler]

I only see 2 problems:

1. It might be weaker than it is now. some metals don't like to be welded, they crystalize or otherwise get weak at the weld joint. The hitch pin will be fine, but what of the tube with the hole in it? The frame will not be more flexable side to side with the sides cut & a joint in it, will that crack any top welds that are on the rops? And so on. Not saying it won't be stronger than it is, but there are several possibilities. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

2. How long do you think you will be using the rops once it is removable? If this is your storage shed for the tractor, you will need to remove it _every_ time you put it in the shed, and think of putting it back on _every_ time you back out.

If you forget it on just one time, you have your building damaged. I read of that problem all the time here with foldable ones.

If you back out of the shed, are you really going to stop, get off, pick up the rops, put it on, put 2 pins in, and get on again? Really? All the time?

You might as well take it off & leave it off, bolt it back on when you sell the tractor again. You just won't bother to mess with it if you modify it the way you say. It will be leaning in the shed corner in a short time, behind the other stuff......

jimho

--->Paul