cutting metal roofing (straight)

mopower440 · Apr 4, 2004

Got all the metal roofing up on the pole barn today except the last peice on each side, those 2 pieces have to be cut down to 2 feet wide rather than the 3 feet they come, last time we discussed cutting the metal, i decided to get the metal cutting blade for the skilsaw, so i cut one piece today and im not happy with the rsults, the line was pretty jagged instead of straight and when i laid it up on the roof and then looked up at the little bit overhanging on the gable, it just looked bad, i just had a hard time keeping the saw straight and cut the line kinda jagged, i was just wondering if cutting it with snips would be easier to keep perfectly straight than the skilsaw?? I know that i could just use one of those gable trim pieces that bend over the roof to the fascia board to cover it, but the building has a foot overhang on the gables and i would rather not use one of those because i plan on using the one piece fascia/soffit that covers the fascia and all.. any advice here?
thanks

AndyM · Apr 4, 2004

it just looked bad, i just had a hard time keeping the saw straight and cut the line kinda jagged, i was just wondering if cutting it with snips would be easier to keep perfectly straight than the skilsaw?? 

Use a piece of wood as your guide for the saw. Clamp the wood to the metal on each end and run your saw against the wood guide to get a straight cut.

Glenn9643 · Apr 4, 2004

"those 2 pieces have to be cut down to 2 feet wide rather than the 3 feet they come"

Chad,
Would it be possible to let the end sheet of metal overlap the previous sheet by a foot and not cut at all? If you're lucky it may work out for you. You'll be limited by the spacing of the crimps in the metal but it may be close enough. Otherwise, I'd agree on clamping a straight-edge to the metal and sawing with a metal-cutting blade.

40Kchicks · Apr 4, 2004

I have had to cut a lot of siding. It was always a pain until I got an electric shear. I can’t believe how good they work with no noise. I would recommend finding a friend or a rental shop that has some and put them to use. If you’re going to cut lots of siding buy one.

My shears are made by Milwaukee but other companies make them and they use the same cutter design.

Eric

GerardC · Apr 4, 2004

( Use a piece of wood as your guide for the saw. Clamp the wood to the metal on each end and run your saw against the wood guide to get a straight cut. )

That's exactly what I would do.

Junkman · Apr 4, 2004

You should have planned ahead a little better..... another 2 feet longer and you wouldn't have had this problem...

payback for the dynamite joke. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

mopower440 · Apr 4, 2004

good ideas guys!! Now i need to go to the lumber yard and find a 14 foot piece of wood that is not bowed, i had some 2x4's but they are all bowed.. what could i use to clamp the wood to the metal, maybe vice grips would work? I may rent the metal shears when i do the siding as there will be a lot to cut, how do they work? I may also see if i can overlap by a foot, also a good idea to try! Thanks guys!

mopower440 · Apr 4, 2004

lol.. junkman! Good to have you back..did you see the pics of the brackets bolted to the rock and all that? Been waiting to hear from you to see what you think..

dbelisle · Apr 4, 2004

Take a straight edge and clamp it to the metal roof where you are going to cut. Then take a sharp sheetrock knife and score the material a couple of times and it will snap off when you bend it.

It will leave a nice clean edge.

good luck

2810HST

Junkman · Apr 4, 2004

Snap a chalk line to the metal on the cut line, then snap another line for the setback of the shoe of the saw and figure out where the 2x4 is going to be that the saw will ride on. Use some sheet metal screws to hold the wood in place on the scrap end of the metal. Hope I made this clear. I know what I am thinking, but the fingers aren't typing clearly tonight. They are tired... /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif