Cutting on my BRAND NEW Tractor

[MBDiagMan]

Thanks for the responses and good ideas.

I looked last night and shortening the stack is not too practical because of some brackets on the pipe to which the heat shield mounts.

The alternatives are:

o Bob the pipe and put on a rain cap. Probably most practical solution.
o Cut and move the heat shield brackets in order to shorten the existing stack. I could accomplish this, but would probably end up looking worse than the rain cap.
o Buy the exhaust kit, I haven't priced it yet.
o Modify the door. There is an overhead door in place that would have to be replaced if the door opening were raised. Not very practical solution in this particular case.
o Build a covered area behind the building in which I was planning on storing it. I have enough 24 foot sections of sheet metal and by buying a length of welding lead I could accomplish this, but not before Winter with all the other projects I have stacked up.
o Move my '64 into the spot and park the tractor in the other shop. IF the '64 will fit in that spot. Also I don't know if the tractor is narrow enough to fit between the sides of the two post lift. I would have to move the tractor every time I needed the two post lift which is quite often for oil changes, tire rotations, brake jobs and all the other maintenance on our vehicles. My wife and I both drive a good bit, the cost of living in the boonies.

If I use a chain wrench type of cutter to cut the end of the exhaust stack I should be able to put the rain cap in place very neatly. This is becoming more and more the favored alternative IF I can force myself to cut on my shiny new machine with ANY cutting device.

Thanks again for the good suggestions. Once I decide what to do I will post pictures.

 

[WH401]

How much of the exhaust fumes are you getting in your face when you operate the tractor now? Modifying the exhaust is likely going to increase the amount of fumes you breath...which isn't exactly healthy.

 

[MBDiagMan]

Good question! The exhaust turnout faces forward. This is the cleanest burning diesel I can remember ever being around. No smoke, no smell, but of course it's brand new. I expect it to stay running clean, but I have no crystal ball.

I think that a rain cap would actually push the gases higher in the air, at least at engine operating speed, thus have less of them to breathe at operator height, but that's only speculation. When inching around at low engine speed there would probably be more gases at breathable height, but that's a statement with no data to back up.

 

[donais]

wouldn't you have to move the 64 to do oil changes anyway? also on my last tractor i had a flapper and that thing was loud at low idle slapping the top of the pipe... just some thoughts. Jon

 

[MBDiagMan]

Yes, I do move the '64 on and off the lift space just like I would the tractor. The difference is that the '64 is still a work in progress, so it goes UP on the lift more than any other vehicle on the place. I'm going to do some more measuring this weekend and if the '64 will fit in the other shop, the tractor will take it's parking place, at least for the time being.

The rain cap on my Ford 3000 isn't loud, but it's a smaller pipe. Thanks for pointing this out for consideration though. I might not have thought about that until it was too late. If I go the Rain Cap route, there's no turning back.

BTW, I found the price for the horizontal exhaust kit and it's about $250.

 

[brandoro]

Could you cut the piece with the turnout off and take that piece to a muffler shop and get them to stretch the cut end so it is a slip fit over the remaining exhaust stack? Just a thought. You would still have to remember to remove the piece when you put it in the shop.
Another thought, if you could increase the height of the door opening you shouldn't have to buy a whole new door just another panel or half panel. If it is a sectional door that is, if it is a one piece then that won't work.

 

[MBDiagMan]

Rod,

Those are two very good ideas. The stretch at the muffler shop is the most practical. The door is a steel 16' overhead door that's already too heavy to handle. Might be a good time to go to an aluminum door. Then I could use a garage door opener. My street car is parked next to where I want to park the tractor.

Thanks for the use of your noggin'.

 

[Soundguy]

I rain capped my NH 1920 with no issues. If you decide you want the turnout back.. just get a turn out end with the expanded flair at the bottom and slip it on.. and you are back to where you started.. more or less.. at least functionally.

soundguy

 

[Rickstir]

I altered my 9 x 7 standard roll up door on the end of my pole barn to a 10ft wide by 10 ft. high sliding door to accomdate my Mahindra 4110 with a sun screen. Hard 2 day job but glad I did it.

 

[mjncad]

I modified a door on a building a few years ago to get a cab tractor inside. Ken Sweet

That's what I did on my garage. I have 11' from floor to bottom of truss and the builder put in 7' high doors. My brother-in-law and I raised the headers 18" and the garage door company put in another panel in each door along with heavier springs and pulleys. So now I have 8.5' high doors and my F-250 has plenty of roof to door clearance unlike the previous ~1", and the tractor has plenty of clearance too.