Mowing cutting pasture with a rotary mower

   / cutting pasture with a rotary mower #11  
I have a Bush Hog 48" squealer

Which is exactly what I used with my B7100. I know the B7100 manual recommended 42", but I wouldn't want anything smaller than 48" myself. It worked great, and anything narrower would make it too hard to get close to fences, buildings, etc.. If you should get into grass/weeds/brush that's heavy enough to bog down the engine, just cut slower or half the width of the mower at a time.
 
   / cutting pasture with a rotary mower #12  
Just to add a little info here, I have a 60" flail mower that I use on my NH 29DA, which is rated as 29 PTO horsepower. In heavy wet thick grasses, it will bog down and even kill the engine if I don't use the clutch. In medium or light grasses, it cuts fine. But I feel that my 29DA is underpowered for this size mower. For a 60" flail, I'd recommend 45 horsepower or more. Not sure if a rotary mower takes less horsepower, but I think it does. The advantage of a flail is you can run over downed branches and debris and not hurt the mower - it just makes a lot of noise as it pulverizes the debris. Rotary Bush Hogs can take debris to some extent, but flails mowers were meant to take it.

The problem with trying to do half-width cuts in heavy grasses is the large clumps of cut grass that spit out will get caught up on the next pass and it will be as if you are cutting with the whole width of the mower. So doing a partial width cutting does help somewhat, but is not necessarily the best solution. I think its much better to raise up the mower and take full cuts. Keep raising the mower until you can get through without bogging down too much. And you can always lower the mower in sections where the grass is less thick. Plus, grass grows back quickly, so you'll likely get 3-4" per week and in no time its as if you never mowed it at all. So don't get too worried about cutting grass really low because it won't stay low for long. No matter how high up you cut, a cut field looks better than an uncut field.

The other trick is to mow when grasses are wet, in early morning, seems to act like lubricant and is easier to cut. In late afternoon, the cutting seems harder.

Also don't forget to try to offset your mower, if possible. If you can make it stick out past the tires (usually on the right side) it will make it easier to get into corners and cut along fences. But it also is cutting after your tires have flattened out the grass, so offsetting usually means you can keep two tires on already mowed grass and only flatten grass with the other two tires. So that helps a bit as well.

Overall, mowing technique makes a big difference on how much horsepower you need. Having lots of horsepower is nice, but you can get by with less if you adjust your technique. Less horsepower generally means less fuel, and less tractor, and less cost. So you can save a lot of time and money with good mowing techniques.
 
   / cutting pasture with a rotary mower #13  
Chuckanut said:
Ok now you have my attention. So what mower size do you have, Bruski?

I just purchased a B7100 and I plan on getting a brush mower to replace my DR mower. I know the Operators manual say to use a (max) 4 ft mower but if you struggled with a 4 ft then maybe I should look at a little 42" mower. And I also have been told by a tractor dealer that people try to cut too much with their mowers. He said raise it up and make several passes.

I have a 48" Tebben for my b7100 and I agree with what Bird said... more narrow and it would be a pain.... 48" seems about right, just slightly wider than the tractor. Getting into heavy hay-like stuff really bogs it down, the first pass is the worst, you can take half-passes after that if needed. The area I mow is around the garden, my sons dirtbike track and various other obstacles... I can actually cut it in about the same amount of time with my 42" riding mower as it is more maneuverable but it uses a lot more fuel and is a lot louder :) My blades are sharpened more like a mower than a rough cut and it does a neat job.
 
   / cutting pasture with a rotary mower
  • Thread Starter
#14  
Watching from where all these posts emanate brings up another factor. Cutting fertilized fescue and orchard grass in a wet environment in a fertile field in Missouri would be different than cutting grass in west Texas. It's been like a rainforest here this year. We've had over 20 inches of rain. More than we had all of last year. The big rivers (MO Miss and IL) are full and the moderate sized ones have all flooded repeatedly.

Bruski
 
   / cutting pasture with a rotary mower #15  
MX5000_WoodsBH.jpg
Mowing down a field that had grown wild for 5 years. I can walk through stuff like in the picture in 4th/low without a problem. Going over the top of a huge gopher mound will make it work though.
 

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