Cutting Trees at an Angle

   / Cutting Trees at an Angle #41  
Lot of info here, and some pointless arguing. I actually only got in about two hours of work this weekend before the chainsaw decided to quit. Somebody mentioned 2 saws is a good idea, but I've only got one, soooo, I found some alternate projects until the saw gets fixed.

I have cut hanging trees and trees under tension, so I know what released trees can do. That's why I was so wary going into my first time cutting full sized hung trees. most of my short time sawing Saturday was getting a big tree top down on the ground. It had snapped 15 ft up the trunk and the top was on the ground, and the trunk resting on top of the 15 ft stump. I was able to get it down by careful cutting of the top branches. Once the whole mess was on the ground, the saw stopped cutting and so the tree's still down.

As to the video posted, cutting over by head like that isn't going to happen, and that seems a little to dangerous to try. If the trunk slides the wrong way, curtains for the operator. One thing I've learned is that trees can be unpredictable when they fall, or at least very hard to judge correctly.

TJ if this ever happens again, you can get it down and not bother with the top first. The key is to think the tree is still up. You would fall this tree either to the left or right perpendicular to the break depending on the tip (meaning lean) of the trunk and or weight side characteristic of the break. Notch it, cut it leaving the traditional hinge and either push it or pull it over with the CK depending on size of tree. What this does is relieve a lot of the tension on crown branches and unsprings many of them when the entire tree is lying on the ground. Your next cut should separate the crown from the trunk making it a bit safer to cut up the crown.
 
   / Cutting Trees at an Angle #42  
I apologize, the two videos I posted yesterday afternoon were the same, the 2nd video showing another safe method to control hung up trees to the ground is here: (starts at approximately the 5 minute mark)


If I can respectfully add to this: Upon ascertaining a roll or not, I have found it helpful with hang ups of this diameter, to make my first cut a plunge cut right through the center of the hinge holding the saw as level as possible. Bang in a plastic wedge. No "nibbling" is required. Cut the opposite side of the roll direction and the tree should bring itself down. With no roll, cut both sides and never from behind the tree.. The tree is now freed up off the stump to do your bidding. The wedge many times prevents the tree pinching your bar.

Next to chaps, I feel important that even the casual cutter be equipped with a contingent of wedges and hand axe to make life a bit easier when working timber. If I were working the wood, I would not venture forth without a loggers utility or wedge belt or something of the sort. Do you need one? No. But you'll discover it so much easier if you had one ON YOUR PERSON to carry some stuff that could either eliminate a stupid mistake or even save your life. A cell phone or first aide kit or wedges 50' away on your tractor isn't going to do you a bit of good if you are pinned or cut someplace and survived the initial brunt. Logging is a situation where you want every advantage possible.
 

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   / Cutting Trees at an Angle #43  
A good sharp felling axe may be the easiest way to separate the leaned tree from their roots. If using a chain saw having a extra bar and chain makes life much easier at pinch time.

That's EXACTLY what I have. It's saved me many a lost hour of work time from a pinched blade. And even expert loggers get pinched once in a while.
 
   / Cutting Trees at an Angle #44  
That's EXACTLY what I have. It's saved me many a lost hour of work time from a pinched blade. And even expert loggers get pinched once in a while.

Probably just as fast. Primer cord would be the best.
 
   / Cutting Trees at an Angle #45  
Had to take down a 12" tree that was leaning over a trail this weekend. I put a chain around the base of a tree where it was leaning and attached a snatch block. Then tied some 5/8" Arborist's line about 15' up, ran it through the snatch block to the tractor.

The tractor very easily pulled it the rest of the way down while I was about 50' away, behind other trees and moving away.
 

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