I had a few Kubota's BX models over the past 20yrs without me doing anything stupid. I added a Landpride QH10 quick-hitch and 3pt hitch ballast box for some loading work. I though I had the hitch speed control knob under the seat in the locked position but I somehow hit the 3pt control lever with my right elbow and it brought the entire assembly up to the top real fast and the frame of the Quick-hitch is pressing against the back Lift control lever... the rod that lets you control the height while standing outside next to the implement. This is preventing me from moving the outside or inside 3pt hydraulic lever down... its stuck in the top "10" position. I turned the hitch lowering speed knob under the seat fully counterclockwise to the Fast and I guess being so new the hydraulic is not bleeding off (30mins). I hoping it will overnight but if not... any suggestions? I might be able to get in to lengthen the top link but with the quick-hitch frame rasied so high - its really tight. Any advice other than calling me an idiot would be appreciated.
CX2510 HST Quick-Hitch Stuck Against Rear Lift Control Lever
- Thread starter WB2ORJ
- Start date
- Views: 5386
Alan46
Elite Member
Not stupid just one of those things.
When you move the lever to the # 1 position I would think that the release of pressure would lower the three point, if that didn’t happen could there be metal to metal stuck somewhere. I have a CK25 so I’m familiar with the layout of the control’s.
Can you post some pictures of different areas so we can see maybe going on?
When you move the lever to the # 1 position I would think that the release of pressure would lower the three point, if that didn’t happen could there be metal to metal stuck somewhere. I have a CK25 so I’m familiar with the layout of the control’s.
Can you post some pictures of different areas so we can see maybe going on?
First picture shows the hitch pushing the hitch lever all the way up, you can even see a bit of upward bowing due to the tension. The second picture shows some bowing due to the pressure. I believe both the inside and outside hitch levers are mechanically linked so the outside is jammed up from the quick-hitch frame so neither can be pushed down. Its been about 2 hours and nothing has changed. Hoping a long cold night will lower the hydraulic pressure.
Attachments
ptsg
Super Member
If you can't extend the top link, try use that side link to relieve some of the pressure. Loosen the jam nut and rotate the center section. It should tilt the QH to the right and also lower some.
Did it hit the tail light too? Looks awful close to that as well.
Also, the knob under the seat only adjusts the down speed of the 3 pt. Nothing else on the entire hydraulic system. And fully closed, with prevent the 3pt from lowering.
Did it hit the tail light too? Looks awful close to that as well.
Also, the knob under the seat only adjusts the down speed of the 3 pt. Nothing else on the entire hydraulic system. And fully closed, with prevent the 3pt from lowering.
The speed knob under the seat has always felt very lose. On my Kubota it screwed in both directions very firmly but on CX2510, rotating it doesnt feel like there is anything attached on the other end. I did leave it now in 'Fast" position. I am not ashamed to admit that working under the ballast bucket on any of the links gets me very nervous.. I normally would use the speed lock to lock it in the raised position and loosen the side links but I'm not sure that speed knob is working and if not as soon as I relieve any tension on the hitch lever that ballast box would come flying down on my arms working underneath. How long do you think it would take for the hydraulic pressure to bleed away. It never stayed more than 24h on my Kubota's unless the speed knob was locked.
ptsg
Super Member
It's a new tractor, it may even take months to drop. That's not really a method to fix it in my opinion.
Get a jack, put it under the ballast box. It may even relieve enough pressure on some of the pins to take things apart if needed.
Get a jack, put it under the ballast box. It may even relieve enough pressure on some of the pins to take things apart if needed.
I'm going to try to borrow a shop crane (1 ton) which rolls on casters and see if I can secure it to the ballast box to take off either pressure or at least secure it for me to loosen the side links. At some point for a permanent fix I will need to put a 45 degree bend up on the lever rod so that the quick-hitch frame does hit it if the hitch gets lifted all the way up
Alan46
Elite Member
I like that idea. I’m thinking that if you heat up the lever rod and do the 45 bend first you might not need the crane!
Its a crazy problem. Just looked at the side links, the Landpride quick-hitch frame is right up against both tail-lights. Even if I loosen the side links the ballast box can only sway in a side to side arc and theres no room the Quick-hitch frame is smack against the tail-lights. Seems only solution is to lengthen top-link which seems almost fully extended already. Too tight to get a blowtorch on to the rod - I'm tempted to support the ballast with the shop crane and cut through the rod and then worry about getting a new one down the road.
dirttoys
Platinum Member
So far you got a good story. When I make a mistake, I sometimes am not a careful as I should be fixing it. Make sure the brakes are set, and the load is supported before you do much, stay as clear as you can, you could be hung somewhere and the hydraulics are not the only thing holding it up.
best,
ed
best,
ed
Alan46
Elite Member
As far as the rod goes.
Once everything is secured and brakes are on. I would use my trusty saws all with a new blade, can you reach it from drivers seat that should keep you out of harm’s way?
As far as bleed off goes mine bleed’s off somewhat over night, but then mine is a 2005!
Once everything is secured and brakes are on. I would use my trusty saws all with a new blade, can you reach it from drivers seat that should keep you out of harm’s way?
As far as bleed off goes mine bleed’s off somewhat over night, but then mine is a 2005!
The plot thickens... I went over to my dealer who has a new CX2510HST Cab on the lot. I looked at the 3pt speed control know below the seat and on his machine it turned at least one complete 360 revolution with some very light resistance. On my machine, I can only turn it less than an 1/8 turn either direction.. like going from 12 o'clock to 2 o'clock and feels very loose. He show me an easy way to release the rear 3pt control rod link to the in cab control - small cotter pint holding the link together. See picture. I didnt want my hands under so I used some fishing line to pull it off. The rear control lever rod handle came apart easily, no long pressing on the quick-hitch frame and moving the inside cab control lever to full down does nothing... the 3pt would not come down and remains stuck in the full up position. The speed knob under the seat feels exactly the same as when I first got the tractor in Dec. I had an no start issue immediately in the first 10 hours in January and the dealer found the main wiring harness under the dash had been crimped during manufacturer assembly of the cab and shorted some wires melting the harness. It took 10 weeks to get a new harness and I only got the tractor back end of April, so limited use with the 3pt hitch. I cant use the tractor now because any bump will rock the ballast and frame sitting right up on the rear taillights. Dealer will come out Monday with his mechanic to assess.
Attachments
ITS FIXED !!!!
I bit the bullet and took a open box-wrench and gently pried the below the seat speed knob (MLS) lever counterclockwise and it broke free and turned as it should, lowering the 3pt hitch. I never over tighten knobs or controls so not sure how it got that way except it was set up in January with the ballast box and maybe the warmer temps made the metal expand. I next extended the top link and now can raise the 3pt 100% without the Landpride Quickhitch frame hitting the rear knob or taillights.
Another tractor lesson learned.
Thanks to all who offered advice.
I bit the bullet and took a open box-wrench and gently pried the below the seat speed knob (MLS) lever counterclockwise and it broke free and turned as it should, lowering the 3pt hitch. I never over tighten knobs or controls so not sure how it got that way except it was set up in January with the ballast box and maybe the warmer temps made the metal expand. I next extended the top link and now can raise the 3pt 100% without the Landpride Quickhitch frame hitting the rear knob or taillights.
Another tractor lesson learned.
Thanks to all who offered advice.
Alan46
Elite Member
Oh, Happy day!!! 
I know this is an old thread, but I had a very similar thing happen to me over the weekend. Same tractor (new Kioti CX2510 with cab). I took delivery of it last week. I put a GWT quick hitch on it. I had a 500lb flail mower on the quick hitch and was getting everything adjusted. I was raising the 3PH from the rear position control lever and not paying close enough attention. The 3PH rose a lot faster than I expected, almost pinning my hand between the quick hitch and the rear position control lever. I moved my hand out of the way (no injury, but certainly too close for comfort) but somehow the 3PH rose enough to contact the position control. Quick hitch was also up against the taillights (but didn't crack them), and the top link was against the metal plate that holds the SMV placard (which wasn't installed). I don't know if the 3PH stopped because it finally reached its upward limit, or if it was binding on something.
As the OP found out, I wasn't able to lower the 3PH because the QH against the rear lever kept the "main" position control lever from moving. Fortunately, I was able to lengthen the top link enough to get a little distance between the QH and the rear lever, and that allowed me to lower the 3PH from the inside lever.
I figured something had to be wrong with the way the tractor was set up. My JD 4110 (similar size tractor, a little smaller) had a QH on it, and it's never come close to raising high enough to contact the tractor. I also didn't want to worry about having to closely watch for this happen every time I raised the 3PH. I looked into buying the little knob that limits downward travel by physically restricting how far forward the lever can be pushed.
My top link was mounted in the bottom hole (of three) when this happened. I think it was delivered that way, but not sure. I moved the top link to the top hole, adjusted the top link for the flail mower, and tried again. This time, I was able to raise the 3PH to its limit without the QH or top link hitting anything.
I'm still liking the idea of adding a second 3PH travel limiter to be able to easily set the upward travel limit for the 3PH. It only costs about $10, and I think it would be good to set an upward limit on the 3PH (when using a flail mower) to limit the upward movement when raising the mower to turn around.
As the OP found out, I wasn't able to lower the 3PH because the QH against the rear lever kept the "main" position control lever from moving. Fortunately, I was able to lengthen the top link enough to get a little distance between the QH and the rear lever, and that allowed me to lower the 3PH from the inside lever.
I figured something had to be wrong with the way the tractor was set up. My JD 4110 (similar size tractor, a little smaller) had a QH on it, and it's never come close to raising high enough to contact the tractor. I also didn't want to worry about having to closely watch for this happen every time I raised the 3PH. I looked into buying the little knob that limits downward travel by physically restricting how far forward the lever can be pushed.
My top link was mounted in the bottom hole (of three) when this happened. I think it was delivered that way, but not sure. I moved the top link to the top hole, adjusted the top link for the flail mower, and tried again. This time, I was able to raise the 3PH to its limit without the QH or top link hitting anything.
I'm still liking the idea of adding a second 3PH travel limiter to be able to easily set the upward travel limit for the 3PH. It only costs about $10, and I think it would be good to set an upward limit on the 3PH (when using a flail mower) to limit the upward movement when raising the mower to turn around.
