Cylinder rebuild help needed?

[IslandManMitch]

This is the cylinder that has been used for a top link. It was used cylinder and retrofitted years ago and has worked fine except it has always leaked a little. Getting worse and it is to the point it needs rebuilding. The rod end cover had two 1/4" bolt holding it on which I removed. I put the two bolts back in the cylinder to screw it out. Turns freely but does not screw out or in? How does it come out? Where can I get a rebuild kit? I have looked with no luck? This is the first cylinder I have tried to rebuild and I'm already lost? Thanks for any help, Mitch

 

[Craig Clayton]

Sir
I had a older cylinder that was being held in place by a special fitting at the rod end that was part of the 1/2 npt hydraulic fitting. I would take take the rod end fitting off and look in there.
Craig Clayton

 

[kennyd]

Does the gland push in? I am thinking there is a internal snap ring that keeps the gland from coming out.

You probably won't be able to get a "kit", but once it's apart the a local hydraulics shop should be able to match them up. If you chose to buy online you will need to be able to accurately measure the seals, A great place to buy from is www.herculesus.com

 

[Wayne County Hose]

Does the gland push in? I am thinking there is a internal snap ring that keeps the gland from coming out.

You probably won't be able to get a "kit", but once it's apart the a local hydraulics shop should be able to match them up. If you chose to buy online you will need to be able to accurately measure the seals, A great place to buy from is www.herculesus.com

Kenny nailed it. Spray some good penetrating oil around where the gland meets the barrel, wait about a half hour, and tap the gland down the barrel until you see the internal snap ring. Remove the snap ring and use the rod like a slide hammer to knock the gland out. Oh, one more thing, get that brass fitting out of your system.

Andy

 

[IslandManMitch]

Thanks everyone for the information. I will try your suggestions tomorrow. The brass fittings came with the set up with no problems after 5 years. I am guessing the hydraulic pressure is to high for them and I have been lucky? I will take your advice and change them out regardless of the reason why. Do they need to be "hydraulic" fittings? I guess I can get them when I get new seals from the hydraulic shop? thanks again, Mitch

 

[kennyd]

The brass is not rated for the pressure, better that the cast iron plumbing fitting from Home Cheapot-but still not correct. You need steel fittings.

 

[KWentling]

So are they brass fittings or zinc plated steel? Magnet would tell for sure. Definitely change them out if they are brass.

Kim

 

[J_J]

For all those that don't know, not all brass fittings are alike. There are different grades of brass. Some say never use brass fittings, but there are some brass fittings that will withstand up to 3500 psi to a 5000 psi test burst pressure. This data is from Gates. Look on page 212. Excellent source of hose specs and fittings.

http://www.royalbrassandhose.com/catpdf/catalog.pdf

So how do you know if the brass fittings you have is rated for high pressure. You probably will not know, unless you purchased it from a hyd supply. The fittings from Home Depot, probably are for low pressure.

 

[IslandManMitch]

Used Kenny and Andys directions and it came apart easy. I will take it to the hydraulic shop next week to see if they can match up the seals.
The fitting are for sure brass. They may be the high pressure ones like J.J.'s talking about but I'll change them out while I have everything apart just to be sure. Thanks, Mitch

 

[kennyd]

Used Kenny and Andys directions and it came apart easy. I will take it to the hydraulic shop next week to see if they can match up the seals.
The fitting are for sure brass. They may be the high pressure ones like J.J.'s talking about but I'll change them out while I have everything apart just to be sure. Thanks, Mitch

Great! Glad to help. Keep us posted on the repair