Damaged Threads - 1025R Rear Axle

[beenthere]

So I have sucessfully repaired two of the three sets of damaged threads. On the one, I installed a slightly smaller diameter bolt and secured with a lock washer and nut. Everything to torqued to spec. Thank you to everyone for your help and insights. This forum is invaluable.

That should work for you. Keep a close check on how they perform.

 

[torch1]

One thing I am not seeing here is to make sure and use an antiSeize/ neverseize compund once the repair is made. Wheels generate a lot of heat and if you do not lube the threads you are looking for trouble, any wheel I put on or off always gets ant-seize, always.
if your putting Heli-coils in aluminum I have had great luck using grease as a lube for the heli-coil tap. Aluminum being a softer metal just seems to like the additional lube, of the grease. Also holds the cuttings to the tap which is an additional bonus.
Heli-coils are not rocket science but with care they make an awesome repair. Cheers

 

[aircommuter]

From what I see in this picture you don't have any material left to do anything with that size tap.

View attachment 808969

Due to the angle of the photo one cannot see the thickness remaining. Second is a heli-coil doesn’t remove much more than the thread depth when drilling. Third heli-coils are stronger than original because it is slightly larger and the coil is applying side pressure due to the angle. It is also smoother and usually better material than the original. Volkswagen had stainless thread inserts in their cylinder heads same as a heli-coil from the factory back in the 50s or maybe even further. Threads that are frequently disassembled especially in soft metal are better to have inserts. Some vehicles like Mercedes supply a guide stud in the tool kit, I have a couple in my toolbox. Might not be a bad Idea to make one. I have made several for installing transmissions and differentials.

 

[LittleBill21]

Yea, there is no damage to your tap, I guess you didn't look closely at it before you started. I have included a link, to show other brand new ones, that look the same. They are to help start

the reason it stopped, is your drill is simply not geared low enough to do the cutting, it started easy till it started to cut the threads again, then it bound up.

as a new person to taps, you should do it by hand, drilling is a tricky way to go, and if you mess up your done.

https://www.amazon.com/Drill-Americ...7742abf7e0ef3&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl

 

[dodge man]

If the threads are ruined I’d go Helicoil, I’ve had good luck with them in the past.

 

[Rockbadchild]

Due to the angle of the photo one cannot see the thickness remaining. Second is a heli-coil doesn’t remove much more than the thread depth when drilling. Third heli-coils are stronger than original because it is slightly larger and the coil is applying side pressure due to the angle. It is also smoother and usually better material than the original. Volkswagen had stainless thread inserts in their cylinder heads same as a heli-coil from the factory back in the 50s or maybe even further. Threads that are frequently disassembled especially in soft metal are better to have inserts. Some vehicles like Mercedes supply a guide stud in the tool kit, I have a couple in my toolbox. Might not be a bad Idea to make one. I have made several for installing transmissions and differentials

to the contradictory I think the angle is perfect to see there is no thread left. i agree with everything else you said … as long as one lock tight the heli-coil properly.

 

[aircommuter]

Yes to see the threads but not the remaining thickness of the part. Had the picture been taken from the opposite angle it would show both or two different photos, the description told us about the threads.

 

[LD1]

Just curious.....as it wasnt said or shown in the pics....but what size is the tap?

And that tap is indeed fine BTW. And as long as its the correct size will work fine for the repair. But I would never trust someone else sizing a tap for me, especially a discount auto-parts store employee. I'll take my own measurements.

 

[aircommuter]

Absolutely especially with metric having 4 thread pitches regularly used. I was recently making a motor (10hp) adapter plate for my Okuma lathe as part of a conversion to VFD when I removed the existing motor I noticed the threads looked like 1/2”-13. I can usually identify sizes by eye after working on so many things. But knowing this was a metric machine I started checking with my pitch gauge and metric didn’t match. So checked to verify diameter and 1/2” it was. Then pitch was 12tpi hugh? Yep you got it 1/2”-12 British Whitworth. So don’t let the machine fool you.

 

[beenthere]

To the OP snpower. Was it the M12 x 24 metric bolt? part #LVU23280

Mentioned in this previous thread.

1025R Wheel Bolt Size/Substitution

It would be great to avoid the longer drive to the dealer - is there an off the shelf bolt size that will work on the 1025R wheels (sub for part LVU23280)?

www.tractorbynet.com