Darn wall isn't "flat", rip out? other ideas?

[Richard]

Darn wall isn\'t \"flat\", rip out? other ideas?

Well if this doesn't beat it all...

I've been very meticulously building a shower downstairs making sure that all the studs are vertical/plumb and spot on so when the tile people come, they can do their work instead of fixing mine (and wish that all their frames were so well done /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif)

Perhaps I should preface that this shower is in a basement, in a corner between two block walls (below grade). I have made the entire shower infrastructure out of treated lumber (which perhaps we all know can warp out on you) /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif

Last night, I noticed something kind of strange as some of my supports had odd gaps (I put 2x10's between the joists so we'd have some meat to attach a grab rail if it's ever needed)

Long story short, I took my 4' level and placed it on the wall.

There are 5 studs here, the first say three of them line up nicely with the level, ie, they're all on or near the same vertical "plane". The fourth one however, is a bugger, it's crowned out on me and now, between the 4th and 5th, there is perhaps an INCH gap at the worst of it. /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

(I'll try to post pic tonight when I get home)

I'm just stunned. This wall is going to currently have a very nice bulge in it and I don't want that.

Although ripping the stud out IS feasible, it will be a major task as my wife accuses this of being tornado proof. I've really tried to over build as opposed to under build or "just enough".

So you have several vertical studs and one of them is now sticking WAY out... some thoughts:

1. Can I just CUT the stud and by taking a slice out of it, "push" it back into line with the rest and then scab some boards on either side of my cutline to help support the cutline?

2. Take it out (major job now, it's really buried)

3. Any thoughts/way I could "shave" it down? (I think this brings up other compliations though that I've not mentioned here)

I guess I'm wondering how choice 1 might balance with choice 2. IE, is choice 1 "accaptable" given this is NOT a load bearing wall, backed up by a block wall and I can add more supports internally if need be.

If my description isn't clear, then tonight when I get home (10:00) I'll try to post a pic and maybe that will help.

I'm just bummed about this... (and secretly hoping that choice #1 would be acceptable)

/forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

 

[CurlyDave]

Re: Darn wall isn\'t \"flat\", rip out? other ideas?

I saw pictures form your previous posts.

I think your wall is plenty strong enough. It is not load bearing.

I would investigate why the stud moved -- 1" is a lot of warp.

If you are convinced it is stable and not going anywhere else, mark it and shave the offending parts off with a power plane.

Wear a dust mask -- there is plenty of arsenic in some of the pressure treated wood.

 

[goaliedad]

Re: Darn wall isn\'t \"flat\", rip out? other ideas?

I suspect the problem is with the pressure treated lumber- as you noted it tends to warp as it dries. As it is not a load bearing wall I would look at slicing it and placing a straight board along side. From your post I get the feeling that you really don't want to pull it and replace. The option of planing it down would also work, but end up being alot of work. Best of luck in whatever avenue you take.
For what it's worth I had the same thing happen on a garage wall- it wasn't treated lumber but it sure bowed! The siding was already on, and it was in an area that wasn't visible. One of those "someday" projects. We ended up moving before someday came!

 

[scott_vt]

Re: Darn wall isn\'t \"flat\", rip out? other ideas?

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If you are convinced it is stable and not going anywhere else, mark it and shave the offending parts off with a power plane.
)</font>

Daves got it right, hand held power plane would be my choice at this point, unless you can get a jig saw in there to rough cut it first!

scotty

 

[Richard]

Re: Darn wall isn\'t \"flat\", rip out? other ideas?

The downside (as I perceive it) from planing, is...

The right side of this errant stud is the "left" side of a cubbyhole/shelf we're going to put in. As such, I have some other boards flush across the top/bottom of the studs to be the roof/floor of the cubbyhole. Seems if I cut only the stud, they will then be sticking out.

In other words, it's not a singular stud that's the issue. I've got stuff attached to it that now by virtue of bowing out some, the whole ensemble is bowed.

I'm afraid planing in and of itself will be a lot more work (though I might be wrong)

I REALLY want to just cut the stud above the cubby hole, push it back and then BOLT some supports to either side of it to strengthen it again. In the end, the real purpose of this is to just hold the Durrock.

as to 1" being a lot of warp, it's only a guessed distance, though probably a reasonable number. Measured at the middle of a 8 1/2' board... and also, it's certainly possible that there was already some form of un-evenness there that's just gotten worse (that might have been otherwise 'ok' had it not bowed more) I'm sure my building techniques have NOT been as perfect as I've let myself belive! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Richard]

Re: Darn wall isn\'t \"flat\", rip out? other ideas?

Not sure if this will work but the pic of the wall is Here and it's the stud to the RIGHT of the coke can that is the problem stud.

You can see my 2x10 for grab bar supports AND you can perceive above the 2x10 some more 2x's that are the floor/ceiling of the shelf we're making there.

It's because of those items that make me wonder if planning might work...

Hmmm...another thought hit me... You can see holes along some of the 2x10s used as braces. I've nailed AND screwed them in. I might be able to cut through the nailed part, remove the screwed part and THEN plane the stud down. When done, simply rescrew them back in.

All I know is I'm not looking forward to this, I'm getting a bad feeling that it's going to cost me at least one bruised hand/foot/head/other /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[B8FISH]

Re: Darn wall isn\'t \"flat\", rip out? other ideas?

If you can sacrifice the space, what about adding shim material to the other studs to bring them out to match the "bad" one? Maybe just split the difference, say 1/2", to minimize the bulge. Or make a more gradual transition across the length of the wall so it's less noticeable. Hand held power planes are pretty quick if you go the other route.

 

[gotrocks]

Re: Darn wall isn\'t \"flat\", rip out? other ideas?

Richard, If not load bearing then I have had OK luck by cutting a small wedge out and then push the stud back in line. Then you can "scab" on the side and have a flat surface. See if the drawing is understandable.

Imagine this is your stud laying down.
___________________________________________
|_________________/\________________________|

Cut notch narrow to start and check
Do not cut completely in two pcs.

 

[JerryG]

Re: Darn wall isn\'t \"flat\", rip out? other ideas?

I think what I would do is cut about an inch out of the middle and then scab a 2x4 on each side. It would be a lot quicker and easier than taking the whole thing out after seeing the way it is made. Use screws or that is what I would do.

 

[Richard]

Re: Darn wall isn\'t \"flat\", rip out? other ideas?

Jerry, yours is my first & favorite idea but... (the proverbial but)

The right side of that offending stud is again, being used as the "left" wall of a cubbyhole/shelf. If I cut where I WANT to cut (in the middle) my scab board(s) would fall right INSIDE my shelf space /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

I might have to cut it above the board, about 1/3 down from the top.