Dash instruments issues

[Larrnel]

I致e had my New Holland 1630 now for 20 years. Frustrating Is failure of the fuel and temp gauge at same time. However. On occasion the temp gauge tries to work. The rpm works and so do the panel lights. Is there a common ground somewhere on the tractor frame or on the panel back Connection I should check or is the panel bad? Thanks.

 

[Rebeldad1]

Start here
Pull and check all fuses in the fuse panel.
pull the instrument panel connector(s) and plug them back in. also isolate the wires from the temp and fuel sensor and follow each from the panel connector to the sensors. Also find the panel ground and make sure its clean at the connector and at the actual ground end.

 

[Larrnel]

Thanks a bunch.

 

[Roadworthy]

Rebeldad's suggestions are good. I will add that on many older vehicles the instruments didn't run from twelve volts. There was a lower voltage supply feeding them. If you can locate a schematic you may find a common feed of the lower voltage for only your instruments.

 

[tc429]

I致e had my New Holland 1630 now for 20 years. Frustrating Is failure of the fuel and temp gauge at same time. However. On occasion the temp gauge tries to work. The rpm works and so do the panel lights. Is there a common ground somewhere on the tractor frame or on the panel back Connection I should check or is the panel bad? Thanks.

old thread I know, but just replaced fuel gauge in our 1630, thought would throw some dash cluster pics in case anyone else has a dead gauge and dont want to spend 800 on a new one- if you can even find one...
ours quit, i assumed sended was bad, tore it apart, drilled rivets out of sender, resistor/wiper looked pretty darn good, they read 33 ohms full, 240 ohms empty, ours was fair, but touching the float, would open up intermittently, rebent the 'brush', cleaned the silver contacts, riveted back together- nice solid resistance thru whole range, yay...plugged dash in swept the float, gauge worked fine-twice, then stuck again... ohmed out the gauge pins, solid 33-240 ohms, intermittently though, needle sticks at random places...bad gauge
checking around, these things are stupid expensive and not usually in stock. in pics, the three gauge part numbers are visible on the tags, found one fuel gauge online for 240.00, but sold out...cluster is $840.00 but again, no stock- not that i'd put that much money in a mower dash anyways... btw, to pull gauges from cluster, just remove the perimeter screws on back, face comes off- each gauge has one or two(tach) screws on the face, and the gauge actually pluge in- just take the face screw(s) out, carefully get something between the sliver 'can' housing and the back white plastic, gently pry up... the pins are tight as heck, but they will unplug...
checked signals at the pins, all was well, so knew the fuel gauge itself was dead... ordered a 33-240 ohm generic 90 degree clockwise fuel gauge from ebay, tore it apart, uncased it, removed needle/face/motor, put one nut on each threaded post(they are marked +,-, s on the white part) andcut the posts flush to the nuts, as needed clearance... took out all the light bulbs, desoldered the hour meter wires, removed all the screws(ones in mid part of board and sides of brown plug are slightly smaller) pulled board off... desoldered 'pins' the fuel gauge plugs onto- cheap board printing, and pins staked and soldered, so ripped the front traces off when pulling the pins out... scraped coating off, fluxed/soldered bridges across broken traces, soldered 6" of small wires in- knew posts were different orientation, would need wire to hook up, and clearance... hacked out the white plastic, to clear the wires, make some room...in pictures the +,-,s posts i marked sloppily...white S, red +, blk - is how the wires are oriented...
soldered stuff up, with only the fuel gauge mounted, took out to tractor and tested, worked fine... as only thing holding new gauge is the one little face screw, mixed up some pourable silicone and poured under gauge...put black tape over board/wires/white case, in case ever needs pulled apart again- tape should peel off easier than the silicone...threw it all back together, works fine- shoulda put a capacitor across gauge (or sender) as new gauge is undamped- mowing at half a tank, hit a bump, gauge swings with fuel sloshing... a cap would eliminate that.

Anyways heres a link to pics of it tore apart if anyone ever wants to do a hackball repair to theirs... maybe not a good idea, but a idea no less new holland ford 1630 instrument cluster

 

[tc429]

just noticed this original new holland thread is under massey ferguson - can a admin move it to new holland?