Oil & Fuel Dealer says use JD Oil - Just Hype?

[jmt1271]

I read an article on one forum or another comparing maint. costs of diesel vs gas on new 3/4 ton trucks. If you hired all your service work done, the diesel was considerably higher. Not enough to dissuede me from buying one, but still higher. If I were towing alot, I would have a diesel, hands down.

 

[pruntyc]

Now of course you are comparing trucks to tractors also. And of course it would depend on if you are using only John Deere stuff to do it, then it goes up in price. In the long term, with how long they last, I think you will find diesel ones cheaper. You have to put that in, also, like overhauls.

 

[dbdartman]

How the heck did the motor oil come into contact with the fuel shutoff? I believe the fuel shutoff comes into contact with, er.....FUEL. The salesman is just that......

If the fuel shut-off is like my 4400, it's a solenoid on the rear of the high pressure pump (which is oiled with engine oil), so, yes indeed, oil DOES come in contact with the shut-off. Attached pic shows shut-off solenoid (gold cad plated) on back of HP pump.

 

[shadog1962]

While buying about $100 worth of filters for my 4310 yesterday, the dealer asked me if I had John Deere brand motor oil to use. He said that they had seen non-JD brand oil gum up the fuel shutoff - "even the synthetic oil".

He seemed sincere, but good salesmen always do. If what he said is true, then I'm sure one of you guys will know about it and fill me in.

Tom

I have had trouble with my 4200 starting. Seemed like no fuel. Bought new fuel it started. Thought it was bad fuel, then then next day it wouldn't go again. I called tthe dealer and talked to the service forman and he told me that the fuel shut off has a bellow on it that gets full of motor over time then the solenoid can't move the fuel shut off. This maybe what they are refering to has "gummed up". The solution is to take the solenoid apart clean the oil out of the bellow, Bob's your uncle.

 

[ridgerunnerinwv]

Here is my take. JD fluids are excellant. They aren't overpriced. So, if you use them, there is little chance the dealer taking any issue with it when there are warranty concerns.

But using good oil like Rotella isn't bad.

They might not be overpriced but I can still beat JD's price at Advance Auto or Auto Zone and still get just as good lubricants.

 

[ShookFarm]

I've always been skeptical of the "hype" surrounding lubricants. My dad was a Trop Artic fan for years. I never could get a grip on what oil was good. Owned a Ford Explorer (or as Aunt Honey calls it, "exploder") which had a bad lifter knock. It was unbelievable how quiet it got after putting a load of Valvoline high-mileage oil in it. Started using Valvoline DuraBlend in everything else after that. Now my Wal-Mart doesn't carry it. Based on comments on TBN, I switched to Mobil 1 synthetic for my GMC Z71 Sierra. I do believe my engine runs smoother, has better oil pressure and a little more low end punch using this oil. Maybe it's in my head, but I spent twice as much money on my oil change as I normally would have. I'll do it again just to see how things behave on the second try.

Now, after buying a tractor, another significant investment, I find I'm in a quandary again regarding lubricants. I don't want to scrimp or do anything to shoot myself in the foot. I also think it's a good way to help the relationship with my dealer so I'll buy John Deere oil and hydraulic fluid while it's under warranty. It won't cost me that much more since farming isn't my livelihood.

Just my thoughts, not meant to slight anyone.

 

[BTDT]

The mobil 1 distributor used to come by our shop (gas utility garage/maintenance facility) and try to talk us into switching to his oil. We were using Amilee oil at the time. He boasted about how you could go a million miles, yada, yada,.. We told him our trucks were sold after 100,000 miles regardless of condition, so there was no need to spend twice as much on his oil if our oil got us to the mileage limit set by company. Like you said, stick with their oil until out of warranty, then use whatever you want.

 

[DieselPower]

The mobil 1 distributor used to come by our shop (gas utility garage/maintenance facility) and try to talk us into switching to his oil. We were using Amilee oil at the time. He boasted about how you could go a million miles, yada, yada,.. We told him our trucks were sold after 100,000 miles regardless of condition, so there was no need to spend twice as much on his oil if our oil got us to the mileage limit set by company. Like you said, stick with their oil until out of warranty, then use whatever you want.

I would have to disagree. By using a higher quality oil, especially a synthetic oil you can greatly extend drain intervals. If you get 2-4 times the change interval you are not saving anything by using the cheaper oil. Perform a good UOA (used oil analysis) program and you might be supprised how long you can draw out your change intervals. Plus as a added bonus you often find problems in a engine before they become to bad and destroy the engine, transmission or rear gears.

 

[BTDT]

That's correct. Amilee provided this service for us. We went from 3000 to 6000 on oil changes. The reason we started having oil analyzed was we converted our fleet to CNG (compressed natural gas). These were dual fuel vehicles (gas or cng with cng preferenced). When we first started we converted some trucks that were in the 30000 to 50000 mile ranges. Then after we found out that it worked and saved the comp. money, they started converting units as they were replaced with new ones converted before anyone put them in service. Then we were bought by TXU, then sold to Atmos, and they don't use CNG vehicles anymore.

But as for me and a tractor, I would use dealer recommended oil till out of warranty, then any good brand will do. If you are using tractor daily in a business, it might be different, but for occasional around the farm/house use, the higher price doesn't make sense (to me).

 

[BTDT]

I would have to disagree. By using a higher quality oil, especially a synthetic oil you can greatly extend drain intervals. If you get 2-4 times the change interval you are not saving anything by using the cheaper oil. Perform a good UOA (used oil analysis) program and you might be supprised how long you can draw out your change intervals. Plus as a added bonus you often find problems in a engine before they become to bad and destroy the engine, transmission or rear gears.

As an added note, if you lengthen your oil change interval from 50 hrs to 100 hrs (or 3000 to 6000 miles, or whatever) by using a synthetic, it will be twice as long before you find out about an engine related problem because your not changing your oil as often. Works both ways.