Deere 110 tlb hydraulic temp gauge question

disney · Aug 25, 2013

Good morning to all. I have what I hope is a simple question. On a deere 110 tlb, or related 4000 series (if they have a hydraulic temp gauge) should the hydraulic temp gauge move above what I will call the cold 'area' after an hour of running, but NOT moving OR using the hydraulics? Most (almost all) of my current machine time is powering a chipper/shredder, and I have never seen the hydraulic temp move at all. Now I have checked/cleaned the wire terminal contact at the sensor, and If I ground the sensor wire (to simulate very high hydraulic oil temp) the gauge moves to the red (where it should be with a direct to ground sensor input). I know I can just replace the sensor (it is not very expensive), but if it is normal for the temp not to get 'warm enough' to move the needle, it would just be wasted money. Thank you in advance for any responses.

PBettis · Aug 25, 2013

I have the same issue with my 2006 110. Takes an hour or so to get the slightest movement of the Hydraulic oil temp guage. The water temp guage moves on up after about 30 mins or so. Also the screen of the guages fogs up pretty bad. Not sure why. Didn't see anything inside the guages that would cause the fogging. Sorry not much help. But I do have the same question. Seems the hydraulic oil would get much hotter much quicker in my opinion too and show an obvious corresponding guage reading.

disney · Aug 25, 2013

Mr. PBettis. Thank you for your reply. I did not think to mention it, but the instrument 'glass' (plastic) will also fog up (after running a while), I doubted the two are related and forget about it. If we get one or two replys from other 110 owners/operators we can find it out it is normal, or if we both have the same 'issue'.

jenkinsph · Aug 25, 2013

My 110 hydraulic oil guage stays steady and cool too in most jobs. If I dig very aggresively for a long period of time it will rise ever so slightly.

dsh82 · Aug 25, 2013

Hi guys, i guess im the only one to actually get it to move to hot then. Ive only got a 110 hot while using the hoe to dig an electrical trench. 160 foot, 18" wide, through hard pack dirt and shale. And it was 90+ outside. On my machine, i get it hot every time i cut my lawn. I use a 7' finish mower to cut 3 acres. Takes about 3 hours total. After that much drive time it gets hot. On cool days in the fall, not so much. I think the hydrostat heats the machine more then anything. And i have the fogging too. Really annoying.

Dan

disney · Aug 26, 2013

Thank you everyone for all of the replies. I guess I have nothing to worry about, although the fogging is annoying. One question for Mr. Dan, and I mean nothing negative by it, but why would it take 3 hours to cut 3 acres with a 7 foot finish mower?

11toma · Aug 27, 2013

My 2006 110 Hydraulic Temp Gauge does not move at all, I changed the Sensor hoping that it would be a simple fix, no luck. The only thing left is the instrument cluster, but that is rather expensive. I hate not having a gauge work. I also have the foggy issue, and glad someone has brought this up. I could not understand why it does this; the gauge is mounted on the fender not near any heat source.

Tom

jenkinsph · Aug 28, 2013

I see that most of you have the guage fogging up I haven't had this issue but do have a cab on mine. I wouldn't worry about trying to fix the temperature guage if it isn't moving unless you can determine the hydraulic system is getting hot. I have found that I can use the fel or how for most jobs and the hydraulic fluid only warms up slightly so not much reason to expect a lot of guage movement.

chris42 · Sep 1, 2013

2003, new to me 110 TLB, Oil temp gage moved up to maybe 11 o'clock position on a (very slow) 15 mile drive. Otherwise it stays in the first 1/2" of range just about all the time. Instrument cluster was silicone sealed by the previous owner and I have no problems with fogging.

If you ever take the cluster (entire black plastic unit) from the fender you will find that - 1. There are relays mounted beneath it on the fender, and 2. - that the unit is designed to flow water away from the relays. With this in mind they expected water to get in below the cluster. I recommend the silicone idea.

dsh82 · Sep 2, 2013

In response to the 3 acre question..... Its not a 3 acre field. Pretty much 6 seperate areas so there is a lot of turning, not very straight mowing, with hills, dips, and trees. If i use the mower to get close it takes much longer then if i use the small tractor to trim. Also, depending upon the height of the grass and whether its wet or not determines ground speed. Im finish mowing, not brush hogging and the mower sucks up a lot of hp. Going up hill in dry grassbogs the mower down and thus the tractor. You have to slow travel speed to keep the rpms up.

The reasoning behind the temp gauge climbing for me and not if youre digging with the hoe or fel is because when jd took a green tractor and converted it to yellow, they figured it would be getting used predominately like a backhoe, not an ag tractor. The cooler area and flow are way different so that they could accomodate the sloping hood for sight lines.

Dan