Delo 400

[RWEST]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Satisfied: Yes
Exactly what to do: Yes
More than I wanted: Funny dialog
Confused: No
Standard: No
Synthetic: Yes (Rotella T Syn 5W-40)
Oil Analysis: Negative
)</font>
/forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
Sometimes it takes 5 or 6 pages of posts to get there, but, yup, we done it!! /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif Another satisfied TBN customer. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

BTW - that Rotella "T" 5-40 makes all my J-D stuff happy too. I noticed a major difference in startup and throttle response when changing to it from the 15-40 dino in my 955 at 140 hours, and, from that point on, it's all I've used in everything. Not that something else might not be better, but, it seems to work good enough for me (plus I have a whole pile of it stashed in the garage /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif ).

Joe - I notice you mention ash in most oil discussions. Is the synthetic Rotella "T" 's ash content higher than any or all other synthetics (including the hydro-cracked ones)?

 

[IH3444]

Rotella T is high at 1.47 ash.

 

[Soundguy]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( That statement infers that all the API CI-4 rated dino oils on the market today are only suitable for non-turbo )</font>

Looking at the napa fleet 15/40.. says it is suitable for turbo diesels.. Hmm..maybee they ( and valvolene) are wrong?? /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Soundguy

 

[SkyPup]

Like I said, all synthetic oils have much higher temperature tolerance for oxidation and degradation than all dino oils, that is a known fact.

In simple terms, if you are running a turbocharger under load, and it is pressure lubricated and cooled using your crankcase oil, you are much better off with a modern full synthetic oil instead of old dino juice.

 

[_RaT_]

Whats interesting to me and my situations in all past vehicles I have owned using "regular" oil is that I have never gotten rid of a car or truck due to engine related problems. I have yet to need to rebuild an engine other then the old VW bug engines. In other words, with my situation, everything else goes well before the engine. Perhaps synthetic oil for my seat covers, door windows, ball joints, springs etc is in order. Not to dismiss the benefits of synthetics, I'm convinced for low temperatures and high temperature extremes, they are the way to go. On the otherhand as many others also will testify, we get many hundreds of thousands of miles on our engines and eventually depart with our vehicles not because the engine needs rebuliding, but rather getting nickel and dimed on all the other issues that creep up over time.

 

[California]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( ... I have never gotten rid of a car or truck due to engine related problems. ... _RaT_)</font>


15 years of per-the-book maintenance didn't help a bit ...

 

[cp1969]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Like I said, all synthetic oils have much higher temperature tolerance for oxidation and degradation than all dino oils, that is a known fact. )</font>
That synthetic oils have an edge is not in dispute. What is in dispute is whether the user benefits that should arise from these superior qualities can be detected outside of a laboratory.

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( In simple terms, if you are running a turbocharger under load, and it is pressure lubricated and cooled using your crankcase oil, you are much better off with a modern full synthetic oil instead of old dino juice. )</font>

Exactly how much better off are you? "Much" is pretty vague but would suggest to me that there is money to be saved. Surely there is some way to quantify the savings.

There are simply too many examples of companies running turbo diesels in heavy duty applications with plain old dino oil, to and beyond the specified overhaul time to condemn dino oil as unfit for use in them.

 

[JimMorrissey]

Even the synthetic T 5-40?

 

[gsxr1100]

cp-

I think if you do a search on this forum or others you will see synthetics are at an advantage. It seems these fluids are gaining more and more strength as time goes on in today’s concurrent engineering world.

As I have stated throughout the years here on TBN, if you, the users want to see the advantage then run a simple oil tests. No marketing, no reading online no laboratory tests blah blah. It is that simple. I have used dino oil in the past and they work. And again so did a horse and buggy for rigging to work and my old 486 and my old school dialup modem. I wanted better results so back in the day I stepped up a level on the oils.

And yes there are many companies that run old din oil without problems. But what kind of cooling do that have? Fluid duration etc? Most business worry about price and look at the upfront cost and how it effects this years budget; not the savings down the road 2 or 3 years. They want to see the numbers now.

The turbo issues with cooking has been around for years and has caused issues in the past. If you stop your engine with a 800+ degree turbo still hot, a dino will not perform the same as a better oil. So good bye to your bearings or watch your Lb, Al, Pb and maybe Cu go through the roof. Never mind all the others things that go with it. Most people do not see these things since they do not test the oil. It is cheaper for them to drain and forget then monitor. People that test will see it and can judge for themselves.

For me it is a no brainer. I spend $45 on my car, $30 on my BX, $30 on my gsxr & $50 on my wife’s. Plus it is to my door. Yup, for me it is a savings and the tests come out pretty darn good. I would not go back to those short drains if they were giving the dino oil away.

PS. Wait till Amsoil come out with there new 25,00 mile oil filters in November. It people do not get this stuff on oil, these filters will blow there minds! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[gsxr1100]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Even the synthetic T 5-40? )</font>

http://www.shell-lubricants.com/products/pdf/RotellaTSynthetic.pdf

Yup