Dented cylinder

[Heavy Metal Doctor]

6Sunset6
The last couple of pictures sure look like there was another tab welded on the stop plate to make the bucket stop sooner. Looks like that area gets a fair amount of wear. By the remains of the welds, I'd guess it had another 1/8" thick tab on there.

As for the backwards mounted cylinder on the thumb - I'd bet they did it that way because they expect the cylinder body to take some abuse with no porblems, whereas the rod getting bumped would cause an instant leak when that damage tears out seals. Same reasoning for the loader lift arm cylninders mounting - mfrs try to keep the rods protected form whatever damage might result in the line of work.
I know they build these thumbs as a generic an add-on, so they make them a single mounted unit. To me, they should have the cylinder on the back side of the bucket out of the way -- but that would require more work to fit to specific buckets.

 

[6sunset6]

You are right. I think there were a couple of tabs welded in there. Maybe if I weld all around 4 sides the new ones will stay.

 

[6sunset6]

Welded on tabs. Looks better . Cylinder rods are well clear.
Third picture extension on the jaw so maybe I don't have to turn the bucket over to grab something. I know foam and a clamp won't work permanently.
Turned the cylinder around, looks better but would still dent with out hard stops.
Hydraulics, still on topic
My wife is making me go on vacation so it will be a few weeks.

 

[wdchyd]

Looks good 6sunset6......:thumbsup:

 

[sizzami]

first the cylinder should be spun rite way to
second I am curious about the damage too. ie what parts in the system could inflict enough damage to the tube to make it stop functioning? has it stopped? if not use it. you are all ready pushing a machined plug down the bore every time you extend retract extend

 

[wdchyd]

first the cylinder should be spun rite way to
second I am curious about the damage too. ie what parts in the system could inflict enough damage to the tube to make it stop functioning? has it stopped? if not use it. you are all ready pushing a machined plug down the bore every time you extend retract extend

The real harzard is when the dent in the barrel chunks off a piece of the piston head and goes in his tractor and screws up a valve with the metal flakes/filings......

If the piston head does not stroke over the dent then it would do no harm...

 

[nickel plate]

Welded on tabs. Looks better . Cylinder rods are well clear.
Third picture extension on the jaw so maybe I don't have to turn the bucket over to grab something. I know foam and a clamp won't work permanently.
Turned the cylinder around, looks better but would still dent with out hard stops.
Hydraulics, still on topic
My wife is making me go on vacation so it will be a few weeks.

6sunset6,
I hope you re-hooked up the hydraulics to test the closing bite fit of the grapple teeth to the cutting edge of the bucket. Absolutely good luck on the grapple re-make, you're a braver man than I.

 

[RickB]

I am curious about the damage too. ie what parts in the system could inflict enough damage to the tube to make it stop functioning?

1. Tramp metal removed from the barrel or piston and introduced to the hydraulic system.
2. Nearly instantaneous failure of the piston seal(s) drastically reducing the clamping force of the grapple as oil bypasses the piston.

#1 is likely, #2 is guaranteed.

 

[sizzami]

The real harzard is when the dent in the barrel chunks off a piece of the piston head and goes in his tractor and screws up a valve with the metal flakes/filings......

If the piston head does not stroke over the dent then it would do no harm...

that is true I took for granted that you would unhook the hose from the opposite end of the cylinder. and looking back I would say fix the mounting problems and replace the cylinder is the safest bet.
congratulations you get the rare tbn , I was wrong , you were right and thank you for pointing it out sir.

 

[6sunset6]

6sunset6,
I hope you re-hooked up the hydraulics to test the closing bite fit of the grapple teeth to the cutting edge of the bucket. Absolutely good luck on the grapple re-make, you're a braver man than I.

First cut off the current ends of the jaw, then install new cylinder, then close jaw, then clamp extention plate and jaw section in place, then tack weld, then do the other side, then check motion , then final welding, then paint.
I think I want the jaw to hit the bucket just before the cylinder bottoms out.
Have to install a hard stop on the retract side as well. Thats what started this whole problem.

 

[nickel plate]

I too might have to deal with "hard stops" on my grapple install. I understand the concept but can someone walk me through the process? Does this question fit within this thread or should I open another one?

 

[J_J]

A hard stop has several meanings. You can install stop plates so the bucket or whatever will not move past the stop plate. You should be careful there also, as the mechanical function of the bucket could add enough force to bend the cyl. You can design the geometry so the cyl barrel does not touch anything when fully extended or retracted. Perhaps you can redo the cyl mounting pin holes. There are also cyl stops for the outside of the cyl, , and stop tubes that can be installed on the inside .

 

[nickel plate]

A hard stop has several meanings. You can install stop plates so the bucket or whatever will not move past the stop plate. You should be careful there also, as the mechanical function of the bucket could add enough force to bend the cyl. You can design the geometry so the cyl barrel does not touch anything when fully extended or retracted. Perhaps you can redo the cyl mounting pin holes. There are also cyl stops for the outside of the cyl, , and stop tubes that can be installed on the inside .

The reason that I asked is that I'm getting very close to lighting off my new FEL bucket grapple (grapple installed on my existing bucket), the cylinder has a 10" stroke and I don't want to crumple anything up on the first in and out. I think the geometery is o.k. so I'll take baby steps with the remote lever on the extension but might need to govern/modify add a stop of some sort on that 10" stroke. Fingers crossed.

 

[6sunset6]

Dag nabit Had this all written and picked another site to check something and it disappeared.
Finally got the grapple fixed. Hard stops on open and almost hard stops on closed. Little work to do there yet. Stops are just before the end of the cylinder stroke. Cylinder is new. Used 3/8 MPT el to 3/8 FPT swivil. This allowed hose connection , 3/8 MPT , With out having to turn the hose at the cylinder. I have since standardized on hose with 3/8 female JIC fittings and then put what ever I need into the cylinder or motor or valve. Burden ( went to check the spelling last time, forget it ) Surplus has a nice selection of hoses, diameter and lengths with JIC female fittings premade , reasonable price. Shipping is shipping of course. I used to use reusable hose ends but they have gotten so expensive. Wish I had a crimper. Anyway I hope the grapple is fixed now.