Desperate, Need help!

   / Desperate, Need help! #1  

jsduke

Bronze Member
Joined
Apr 20, 2003
Messages
88
Location
West Central Pa.
Tractor
PT-425 (Former Kubota L3130 HST)
Hey all, this is going to be a tad involved but please bear with me.

This concerns a leaking chimney area at my abode. The chimney is a vinyl-clad, wood-framed, OSB sheathed and steel-lined structure. Inside the steel lining an 8 inch stainless flue pipe is suspended and a 6 inch stainless pipe is suspended inside the 8 inch. The 8 inch pipe served as the flue for the metal fireplace which was original to the house when we bought it. Several years after moving in we had a cast iron wood stove installed in front of the fireplace and the 6 inch pipe serves as its flue. The house was built in the late 80's and we've been here for 9 years.

A few years back, in the late winter or early spring, we started getting water accumulating on the top of the old fireplace's firebox during a rain/snow melt. It was pooling and then overflowing into the bottom of the firebox and eventually onto the hearth under the woodstove. In the spring heavy rains would create the same scenario but only after several hours or so. We could hear the water dropping loudly onto the top of the firebox.

A tarp placed over the top of the chimney stopped the problem.

Of course a woodstove isn't useful if its flue is covered. In the summer the flat top of the chimney was noticeably sagging and some small gaps or cracks were visible. These were caulked. Problem temporarily solved. Rains didn't appear to cause anymore leaks.

The following winter more snow accumulations followed by melting rains and the leaking resumed. In addition the drywall above the fireplace started getting wet from the inside (some minor mold growth visible on the outside as well). The chimney structure contacts the house at 2 separate roof levels, 1 higher and 1 lower. These contact areas are directly downslope from the respective peaks. In other words rain will run down the slopes of each roof and contact the face of the chimney. It will then divert around the chimney to gutters. The lower roof contact point was identified as the culprit in the drywall problem and a tar like caulk abated the leak, for a time.

Last summer/fall we gave up and hired a pro (chimney specialist) to resolve things. He built a rounded galvanized steel 'roof' over the top of the chimney with an access for the pipe and cap. He also fabricated a steel 'collar' around the pipe/cap to help protect that area. He redid the caulking at the lower roof juncture and caulked all around the top/pipe/cap area. He also shot caulk up in the upper roof juncture as well. We gave it a wait and see.

The drywall problem did not reappear. The leaking on the firebox resumed immediately. The pro was called.

He removed some vinyl siding on the chimney face at the upper and lower juncture. The OSB at the upper area showed rot and a hole. OSB above the hole was removed and as a hose was used to simulate rain the pro observed water building against the OSB and pouring through the hole and into the chimney between the OSB and the steel liner. The water was apparently getting under the asphalt roof shingles and reaching the OSB.

To correct the problem flashing was installed as well as new shingles. The rotted OSB was replaced as well. The Lower juncture was treated the same way.

He finished on friday. It rained heavily, but briefly soon after and all seemed good. Today (sat.) a lighter yet far more sustained rain fell. After a number of hours... Drip Drip Drip!
It's water torture! /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif

Before I drag this guy back out I thought I'd run it past the TBN brethren for ideas.

The only thing I thought of (and I spoke to the pro about some time back) was a possibility of moisture condensing on the underside of the rounded galvanized 'roof', then dripping and pooling on the original chimney top and eventually finding its way into the core and onto the firebox. The reason I thought of this is because there seems to be a significant lag between the onset of precip. and the onset of the drip. Must be pooling somewhere. Funny thing is we tarped his steel 'roof' for a time(a few months back) and it didn't stop the drip, although there was a smallish hole in the tarp over the 'roof' area.

I need your help and expertise. I gotta get this solved. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

Thanks.

duke.
 
   / Desperate, Need help! #2  
do you have access or the ability to take some pics of the chimney are and roof lay out as well as the metal hood . these would be helpful in the thought process . if the flashing that was installed was not a step flashing it will still leak /step flashing being a piece of flashing under each individual shingle and going under the siding each row . this may be the issue also if the siding has any other bad areas they could be leaking as well .and you may also want to consider a criket at the chimney area not sure with out a pic if this would solve your issue or not
 
   / Desperate, Need help! #3  
The long lag time could represent water finding its way from an unforeseen area. A picture would probably bring more perspective to your problem. If there is an area where water is finding its way in, it can travel along plywood seams or follow rafters. A picture would help.
 
   / Desperate, Need help!
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Sorry.

I've got no way to post pics(no dig. camera/ no scanner). I'm vertically challenged for the time being as well (ear trouble) and have to rely on the better half or the pro for descriptions.

The pro did flash the area, replaced a number of shingles and also installed ice guard. Which looks like a thin asphalt shingle with a sticky back.

The reason I keep coming back to the top is when the pro was hosing the roof and observed water flowing in, I was near the fireplace inside and there was no loud dripping at all.

You'll have to forgive me, I'm not up on roofing and waterproofing. The basics are about it.

When we talk of flashing what I think of is an L-shaped strip of aluminum(?) attached where vertical and horizontal surfaces meet and anything upstream must overlap the horizontal surface of the L. Anything more I need to know?

Thanks.

duke.

P.S. The pro seems to be thorough and upfront about what options are available, cost...He and I agreed that there were multiple problems a few weeks ago.
 
   / Desperate, Need help!
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Just to add. The two roof levels are over a cathedral ceiling (LR) and an upstairs alcove also open to the LR area. I would think any water getting inside the roof sheathing (OSB) would eventually spot the drywall overhead or on the alcove's short sidewall (inside of the vertical surface between the 2 roofs) wouldn't it? A close inspection of those drywall surfaces reveals nothing.

duke.
 
   / Desperate, Need help!
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Here's a drawing that might help.

duke.
 

Attachments

  • 427615-roof top.jpg
    427615-roof top.jpg
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   / Desperate, Need help! #7  
I'm a little confused on the line running from the ridge to the chimney, but if this defines two roof elevations I would consider installing a cricket where the roof meets the chimney. The issue could also be that where the upper roofline meets the chimney this could be a difficult area to flash properly. There should be bituthane and alum/copper at the intersection, the bituthane should extend up and down at least 18". Placing a chimney in the location that it is was not thinking far ahead, I see problems with chimneys on roof eaves all the time. It would probably behoove you to remove all the siding on the house side of the chimney and along the cheekwall that intersects it and bituthane and reflash this area, caulking is fine, but it's usually just a band-aid that breaks down very quickly. Hope it works out for you and you can put this problem behind you and get on that tractor. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
 
   / Desperate, Need help! #8  
Experience has taught me that when you have a reoccurring water problem, the the only resolution to the problem is to open the entire structure where the problem exists and then to find an remedy the problem with new materials that are installed properly. I had a similar problem that was unresolved with all the "patch" methods and only after the roof was stripped away from the area and a new rubber membrane installed on the roof and up the chimney walls, did it get resolved. At the same time, a new metal cap was manufactured and installed. Hasn't leaked in the past 8 years since that was done. Sometimes spending more in the beginning is actually less expensive in the end.
 
   / Desperate, Need help!
  • Thread Starter
#9  
Thanks for the replies.

The siding where each roof butts the chimney was removed and the area inspected. Both areas were flashed and ice guard and new shingles installed.

I keep thinking about the chimney top area where the whole sequence of problems started. Any ideas about that? Is condensation/pooling a possibility?

duke.

P.S. Yes Chris, the line from the ridge is indeed differentiating the upper and lower roofs. By the way, what is a cricket?
 
   / Desperate, Need help! #10  
Do you have a chimney cap?

They vary with design and effectiveness. I have one that meets the minimum requirements but I have a BIG problem with downdrafts. I have been told I can fix it with a better chimney cap.
 

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