Detaching FEL on non-concrete surface

[cowboydoc]

I have the deere loader and it doesn't move at all when I hook it up.

 

[Mosey]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Cover your limestone gravel surface with a couple pick-up loads of limestone sand, pack down with tractor. ... Almost as good as asphault at a fraction of the price. )</font>

I've heard of that before. I've also heard it gets soft when it gets wet, which could happen since my carport doesn't have sides. I guess it would work OK on a walking trail, but I'm not so sure about a driveway.

 

[Mosey]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I have the deere loader and it doesn't move at all when I hook it up.)</font>

I'm never going to stop regretting my Bush Hog M246 mistake!

 

[jwstewar]

Not to rub salt in the wound, and I know we are comparing apples to oranges here, but I have a 24D w/ the 12LA and it is always dropped on grass as I have no concrete except for the little sidewalk I poured last fall. I usually don't take the loader off though and let it sit though as I usually want to put it back in the shed. When I first got it I had to have the dealer ream one of the holes to make the pins able to come out and go on. My 12LA doesn't slide either when attaching or detaching. I just forget to fold the support stand back up when I'm done /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

 

[755inNY]

<font color="blue"> Do you have trouble with the FEL sliding when you attach it? </font>

Mine does not move hardly at all. Once the hydraulic lines are hooked up, I can raise and lower the front attachment point (using the control lever) so that I can drive right in. Once engaged at the front, I drop the loader down on the rear supports (mid of tractor).

Jeff

 

[755inNY]

<font color="blue"> Someone posted a picture that he rolls his bucket way forward and sets it down and removes that way. So in essence the bucket faces the ground with all four sides touching the ground</font>

The down side to this approach is that you are exposing the hydraulic piston/shaft from the cylinder. Even though the shaft is chromed it will develop corrosion over time and collect dirt. The resulting ruff surface will wear the seals on the cylinder which will be followed by leaks. I always keep my bucket curled back. The chromed portion of the shaft that does not go into the cylinder is corroded.

Jeff

 

[Inspector507]

My 12LA loader does not move in the grass or in the gravel when I re-install it either, but I do something a little different.
I ease up on it to make sure it's lined up, and as I work the loader joystick to lock the arms on I creep the hydro forward at the same speed that the arms are moving without moving the loader at all. Hard to explain it but.........Works for me!!

Jerry

 

[GRUB]

<font color="blue"> </font> </font><font color="blue" class="small">( )</font>
The limestone sand does not get soft when it gets wet. The rails-to trails project here in Morgantown is a very big deal. The surface gets ridden on by hundreds of cyclists every day. I ride my bicycle 13 miles to work on this surface regularly. The trails are regularly maintained which often requires the driving of substantially heavy equiment on them. A wet day is of no consequence to this equipment. The fines in this sand act like cement and bind the larger particles together. In fact the surface takes a few rainy days to firm up.

 

[Mosey]

Grub,

I'll look into the limestone sand some more. Thanks for the info. If it's as good as you say it is, then why isn't it more popular? If it's that good, then why would anyone use asphalt rather than the limestone sand?

 

[herbenus]

Since you're not talking a big area, why not use the limestone sand, but mix one or two bags of portland cement in it? I've mixed cement with the coarse limestone and it sets up pretty good. Sprinkle a little water on it after you're done.