Diagnosis on poorly-running tractor (TYM 353)?

[Jon E]

OK, to answer a bunch of speculation here - I'm not a novice. I know how hydros work, and I was operating at the recommended rpm for PTO operation, in low range. I am also very aware of how a hydro tends to bog down in higher gears; I experienced it frequently with my JD 4100. So I was running at high RPM in low range, and really feathering the forward pedal almost to the point of not moving. It was still losing RPM. Each time I test drove it, it was about 40 degrees out. No water visible in the fuel filter, although that, in and of itself, is not always an accurate indicator of water in the fuel. I did replace the battery with a brand new Autocraft Platinum AGM battery - did not solve the problem, although the old one tested out bad. The machine does have loaded tires, it was a steep slope, and the Woods BB60X is a heavy brush hog. However, when I ran the machine yesterday on level ground, it worked fine for about ten minutes. When I put it under load (i.e. fired up the PTO and brush hogged a small path of brambles) it started the same symptoms again.

My brother and I checked everything that we could think of, we are both mechanically-minded but not tractor experts. We found what appeared to be a secondary fuel filter (?) located in the fuel line, it's a small metal cylinder about the size of a baby food jar, and had a 2-wire electrical plug/connector attached to it. This is an item that is not mentioned in the owner's manual. We took it off and gently blew through it, and reinstalled it. After that, the tractor appeared to run fine for about a half-hour, but I did not put it under the same load. I took the brush hog off and ran it up and down some steep hills in all three ranges, and it seemed OK. So, I am wondering if just the simple act of blowing out that little metal can was enough to fix the issue.

In any case, I am going to run the machine for a couple of weeks to give it a bit of a shakedown and get comfortable with it, and then I am going to bring it to the dealer for a full-blown service and checkup.

 

[Jon E]

OK, to answer a bunch of speculation here - I'm not a novice. I know how hydros work, and I was operating at the recommended rpm for PTO operation, in low range. I am also very aware of how a hydro tends to bog down in higher gears; I experienced it frequently with my JD 4100. So I was running at high RPM in low range, and really feathering the forward pedal almost to the point of not moving. It was still losing RPM. Each time I test drove it, it was about 40 degrees out. No water visible in the fuel filter, although that, in and of itself, is not always an accurate indicator of water in the fuel. I did replace the battery with a brand new Autocraft Platinum AGM battery - did not solve the problem, although the old one tested out bad. The machine does have loaded tires, it was a steep slope, and the Woods BB60X is a heavy brush hog. However, when I ran the machine yesterday on level ground, it worked fine for about ten minutes. When I put it under load (i.e. fired up the PTO and brush hogged a small path of brambles) it started the same symptoms again.

My brother and I checked everything that we could think of, we are both mechanically-minded but not tractor experts. We found what appeared to be a secondary fuel filter (?) located in the fuel line, it's a small metal cylinder about the size of a baby food jar, and had a 2-wire electrical plug/connector attached to it. This is an item that is not mentioned in the owner's manual. We took it off and gently blew through it, and reinstalled it. After that, the tractor appeared to run fine for about a half-hour, but I did not put it under the same load. I took the brush hog off and ran it up and down some steep hills in all three ranges, and it seemed OK. So, I am wondering if just the simple act of blowing out that little metal can was enough to fix the issue.

In any case, I am going to run the machine for a couple of weeks to give it a bit of a shakedown and get comfortable with it, and then I am going to bring it to the dealer for a full-blown service and checkup.

 

[k0ua]

OK it sounds like you are well on the trail to getting this machine fixed.. it may not be fixed yet, but you have made a difference. So yes fuel delivery seems to be the trouble.. We need to find out what this filter is and replace it or clean it.

 

[DK35vince]

We found what appeared to be a secondary fuel filter (?) located in the fuel line, it's a small metal cylinder about the size of a baby food jar, and had a 2-wire electrical plug/connector attached to it. This is an item that is not mentioned in the owner's manual. We took it off and gently blew through it, and reinstalled it. After that, the tractor appeared to run fine for about a half-hour, but I did not put it under the same load. I took the brush hog off and ran it up and down some steep hills in all three ranges, and it seemed OK. So, I am wondering if just the simple act of blowing out that little metal can was enough to fix the issue.

Does the metal cylinder with wires feel like it runs with the key on ?
It could be an electric pump instead of a filter.

 

[k0ua]

Does the metal cylinder with wires feel like it runs with the key on ?
It could be an electric pump instead of a filter.

That does make sense.

 

[Jon E]

Figured I'd update this thread since it may provide some future reference for someone who is dealing with similar issues. Anyway - the fix for the tractor turned out to be simple, but the path to get there took a while.

After the last post I made, the tractor started to exhibit even worse symptoms. The idle was no longer reliable, and the engine would cycle almost randomly through different RPM ranges. It also became hard to start and would not stay running. Due to being busy over the holidays, I let it sit, but was able to get to the dealer and pick up a new fuel filter. After doing without my machine for almost six weeks, I managed to get a local mechanic with small diesel expertise to clean out the fuel system and replace that filter. Turns out that was all it needed. The machine runs perfectly now, has no hesitation and works like I would expect it to. He said that there was a combination of "just enough" water in the fuel and a very badly clogged filter, to make it do what it was doing.

There are some minor design flaws that I suppose would be considered nitpicking. First, the fuel system has no shutoff valve. The owner's manual shows two possible types of fuel system filters and I happen to have the one without the shutoff, just a bleeder port. Second, due to the location of the tank, behind the seat, the fuel line loops down under the seat and back up to the filter. That provides a low spot in the line which may have the potential to collect water. Unfortunately, no other way to route the line. There is an advantage to having the fuel tank on top of the engine, I guess.

I also had him change the oil, using an off-the-shelf JD filter and JD diesel oil, which he had available. I have found that almost every filter and fluid for this machine is locally available and easily cross referenced. Helps to understand that the machine is made up of other systems which have their own OEM references as well. In this case, the Mitsubishi S4L engine is a common one and parts are easily found.

So, I've put a few more hours on the machine, plowing some snow and moving firewood, and so far it's great. Only thing I tend to dislike (or maybe that I'll have to get used to) is that the speed of loader operation for raising and curling the bucket is S-L-O-W. Maybe there's an adjustment for it somewhere, but for now, I'm just glad it's running.

Next problem I have to solve is that, when it's below freezing out, my bucket curl doesn't work. The joystick is literally frozen and will not move to either side. However, dumping a half-gallon of hot tap water on the cables leading to the hydraulic valve, "unfroze" the curl function. I think the cable has water in it and needs to be removed, dried out and lubricated. At least I have a temporary fix until I can take that all apart.

 

[joeyd]

Glad to hear that your problem was a maintenance issue and not a design problem. My 353 is a couple of years older but has the same engine so I try to keep up on other owners problems. Were did you find the "second" fuel filter? I would like to see if I have the same set up on mine. I have never seen what you describe on my 353.

 

[Jon E]

There's no second fuel filter, at least none that I am aware of. There is a drop-in screen in the fuel tank, after which the fuel goes to the main fuel filter with the clear bowl around it. That's the one that was clogged. After that filter, it goes through a "fuel feed pump" which looks like a small squat metal cylinder with two wires coming out of it (about 2" diameter), and then it goes to the fuel injector pump. I have a feeling that there was water in the line between the tank and filter, and in the filter itself, and the filter was clogged bad. I can take a photo and post it in the next few days, show you what my system looks like.