Did I bust something on the loader hydraulics?

[JWR]

Rancher, I'm with ya. That is exactly what I would do. Just don't know if the OP is willing to take a little risk of doing some other sort of damage. Your thinking of going incrementally and doing the reverse twist more and more until the problem is corrected should work without all that much risk.

 

[JCoastie]

Assuming loosening all the attachment points and retightening with the loader level doesn't fix it (which would be nice, but im doubtful).

Tried that this morning, no change

Maybe the problem is my expectations. Every time I decide to accept a fault or flaw, it grinds at me, so where possible, I try to correct the root problem. In this case, I would (and have) wanted to correct the tweaked arms instead of modifying the bucket carrier, the mounting brackets or tire pressures.

I'm the same way.

 

[JCoastie]

Rancher, I'm with ya. That is exactly what I would do. Just don't know if the OP is willing to take a little risk of doing some other sort of damage. Your thinking of going incrementally and doing the reverse twist more and more until the problem is corrected should work without all that much risk.

Tractor has to go to the dealer for some warranty work, so I'll have them look at while it's there and see of they have any recommendations. If not, I may strap it to one side of a tree, but I bet the relief valve will trip before things get straightened out.

 

[BeezFun]

Tractor has to go to the dealer for some warranty work, so I'll have them look at while it's there and see of they have any recommendations. If not, I may strap it to one side of a tree, but I bet the relieve valve will trip before things get straightened out.

We have a place near me that straightens frames on everything from snowmobiles up to 18 wheelers, If you could find a place like that near you they would have the equipment to do it right.

 

[Vigo327]

Tractor has to go to the dealer for some warranty work, so I'll have them look at while it's there and see of they have any recommendations. If not, I may strap it to one side of a tree, but I bet the relief valve will trip before things get straightened out.

You may be right about that, but those might not be the only hydraulics you own either. With the right rigging a bottle jack could be used to give the extra 'oomph', etc. As mentioned it's all about your comfort level in making it up as you go vs letting someone else who is more comfortable do it. I'm sure some people would put an impressive amount of measurement and math into it, but more likely than not whoever you might pay to fix it would use also be using simple methods and equipment to do the job just like people here are bringing up. No judgment on whatever you choose, i'm just encouraging you not to sell yourself short on what you might be able to pull off to fix this. If you let someone else do it, it should be in deference to their experience or some type of equipment you do not want to invest in, but not because you thought there was just no way in hell you could pull it off, because you probably can.

 

[RancherGuy]

... it should be in deference to their experience or some type of equipment you do not want to invest in, but not because you thought there was just no way in hell you could pull it off, because you probably can.

I am of the same opinion - try to fix it yourself.

With regard to taking it somewhere, I was also going to say that in general, dealers (of all kinds) focus on mechanics who are good at turning wrenches. They are hired to fix by replacing parts. A tractor dealer is likely to try to sell a new FEL arm for almost the same price as a new FEL. In comparison, a collision shop has employees who focus on returning an object to the original shape and appearance, without replacement. They practice their trade with bent steel every day.

 

[JCoastie]

going in Tuesday for warranty work and to look at the FEL, I'm hoping they see what I see, nothing bent and there is a problem with a ram or something that can be corrected without anything needing to be tweaked.

 

[airbiscuit]

I was carrying a 16' log in my grapple and I clipped a standing tree on the left side. It wasn't crazy hard, i.e. the tires didn't come off the ground, but the left side of the tractor dove a bit. After it was over the loader was no longer level side to side, the left side was down about an inch and a half to two inches. I guess I was hopeful it'd be a bent SSQA torque tube which seems fairly straight forward to correct, but the SSQA faces are square. I can see nothing bent visibly.
Looking at the loader arms, one is definitely higher than the other. In use, It seems I can lift to max height evenly (as best I can tell) and I can press down so the implement sits flat on the ground, but I can also dig in more on the left side since it is uneven. I really don't know what's wrong. After I shutdown, I always relieve the hydraulic pressure by lowering the 3pt hitch, and the loader arms, I also toggle the loader joystick to release any remaining pressure once completely shut down. We often use the bucket top as a seat, and it's always been solid. This morning I noticed this (shutdown overnight and not started this morning), there is no pressure in the hydraulic system, all 4 rams move when I step on the bucket. Any ideas, and it is related to my uneven issue?

Video of what I am seeing New video by JCoastie

That's a lot of leverage/force. I'm surprised the first 10 posts weren't - Pretty sure you bent/twisted something.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

small tractor loader arms bend pretty easily. Don't worry about it.

 

[Chainsaw.]

What Tx Jim said, that ain’t right, for a couple of reasons. As he stated the valve shouldn’t let fluid pass while its in the neutral position. Also, the cylinders should have enough drag on them just from the seals that they should take a bit of force to move in and out. But if that were happening they should also be slobbering fluid from being to loose. I’ve worked on alot of cylinders and that is very weird.