Did I go overboard on this quick attach?

[zmansmac]

One of the great things I like about browsing the TractorByNet forums is seeing all the great ideas that members have. My latest build, like many others, took it's inspiration from another member's project. In this case I have to thank 600rider. The difference was that 600rider apparently has access to heavy metal working equipment to build his version of a loader quick attach. My equipment is more limited: drill press, small horizontal band saw, compact bender and hand held grinders. I used 2 inch square tube for the quick attach part and 3 inch tube, with the seam side cut off, for the part that attaches to the loader. The first picture shows the progression of this fabrication. I then used 2 inch square tube, 3/16 wall, to connect the two ends together. The first attachment to my loader is shown in the 2nd picture. I knew this would make the overall weight a little more, but it allowed me to easily mount a hitch receiver and hooks to the assembly (picture 3). An added benefit is that I can "stow" the hitch backwards on the quick attach when the bucket or another implement is attached (picture 4). The assembly, without pins, weighs 35 pounds.

JohnZ
B7500

 

[PhysAssist]

One of the great things I like about browsing the TractorByNet forums is seeing all the great ideas that members have. My latest build, like many others, took it's inspiration from another member's project. In this case I have to thank 600rider. The difference was that 600rider apparently has access to heavy metal working equipment to build his version of a loader quick attach. My equipment is more limited: drill press, small horizontal band saw, compact bender and hand held grinders. I used 2 inch square tube for the quick attach part and 3 inch tube, with the seam side cut off, for the part that attaches to the loader. The first picture shows the progression of this fabrication. I then used 2 inch square tube, 3/16 wall, to connect the two ends together. The first attachment to my loader is shown in the 2nd picture. I knew this would make the overall weight a little more, but it allowed me to easily mount a hitch receiver and hooks to the assembly (picture 3). An added benefit is that I can "stow" the hitch backwards on the quick attach when the bucket or another implement is attached (picture 4). The assembly, without pins, weighs 35 pounds.

JohnZ
B7500

AWESOME- nice work!

 

[Groo]

I was thinking you did with the cross tube before, I saw the hitch receiver on it.
Looks good.
So what else to you have to quickly attach onto it?

 

[mjncad]

I like it. It's obviously specific to your tractor.

 

[zmansmac]

Thanks for all the kind words. Yes, the quick attachment is specific to my Kubota B7500 with LA302 loader but width and pin spacing are the only differences for other loaders. I currently have a FEL mounted snow blade, which didn't get much use this past winter here in SE Michigan. And I recently acquired a used set of 42 inch forks that I will be making a frame for. That's the biggest reason for making the quick attach, along with implements getting heavier in my old age.

 

[k0ua]

One of the great things I like about browsing the TractorByNet forums is seeing all the great ideas that members have. My latest build, like many others, took it's inspiration from another member's project. In this case I have to thank 600rider. The difference was that 600rider apparently has access to heavy metal working equipment to build his version of a loader quick attach. My equipment is more limited: drill press, small horizontal band saw, compact bender and hand held grinders. I used 2 inch square tube for the quick attach part and 3 inch tube, with the seam side cut off, for the part that attaches to the loader. The first picture shows the progression of this fabrication. I then used 2 inch square tube, 3/16 wall, to connect the two ends together. The first attachment to my loader is shown in the 2nd picture. I knew this would make the overall weight a little more, but it allowed me to easily mount a hitch receiver and hooks to the assembly (picture 3). An added benefit is that I can "stow" the hitch backwards on the quick attach when the bucket or another implement is attached (picture 4). The assembly, without pins, weighs 35 pounds.

JohnZ
B7500

Looks good.:thumbsup: How did you bend the "J" pieces of steel you welded into the tubing.?

James K0UA

 

[arrow]

Looks good.:thumbsup: How did you bend the "J" pieces of steel you welded into the tubing.?

James K0UA

He used his compact bender. I am curious as to what size drill press or type of bit you used to drill what looks like 1 and a quarter inch holes. Mine has trouble with 1".

 

[zmansmac]

Yes, I used my compact bender. This was the limit for it: 2 inch wide x 1/4 inch steel. My drill press is a Harbor Freight unit that I bought over 25 years ago. It's a floor model and I don't know the hp off hand. You can stall it with larger bits if you try to cut too aggressively. I only have standard drill bits up to 1 inch. You have a good eye Arrow, it is a 1 1/4 inch hole. I bought a Milwaukee bi-metal hole saw to drill it, slow speed of course but it worked very well.

 

[creekbend]

:thumbsup:

 

[k0ua]

Yes, I used my compact bender. This was the limit for it: 2 inch wide x 1/4 inch steel. My drill press is a Harbor Freight unit that I bought over 25 years ago. It's a floor model and I don't know the hp off hand. You can stall it with larger bits if you try to cut too aggressively. I only have standard drill bits up to 1 inch. You have a good eye Arrow, it is a 1 1/4 inch hole. I bought a Milwaukee bi-metal hole saw to drill it, slow speed of course but it worked very well.

cool, I missed that somehow in your original post I see it now.. Thanks

James K0UA

 

[arrow]

Yes, I used my compact bender. This was the limit for it: 2 inch wide x 1/4 inch steel. My drill press is a Harbor Freight unit that I bought over 25 years ago. It's a floor model and I don't know the hp off hand. You can stall it with larger bits if you try to cut too aggressively. I only have standard drill bits up to 1 inch. You have a good eye Arrow, it is a 1 1/4 inch hole. I bought a Milwaukee bi-metal hole saw to drill it, slow speed of course but it worked very well.

Harbor Freight seemed to have more good stuff back then. I still have a shopvac type of vacuum from them that works great after 30 years. Great job on your quick attach.

 

[landshark67]

Dude, I'm impressed! Nice work.

 

[dstig1]

Very nice job. I wouldn't sweat the small additional weight at all.

 

[EGo_SmAsH]

I've had the same style quick attach for a couple years. It sure beats manually switching between the forks and bucket. I have to keep the "J" piece clean and free of grease and dirt because any buildup there can alter the alignment for the lower pins. Very nice build...

 

[My Hoe]

zmansmac:

Holy Crap! Great Build!!!

I don't think you went overboard, I think you just haven't (yet) gone into the right business!

Maybe you could call it "Fabtraculous Customitis" Sounds kind of Latin, no?

I have two kinds of "****" on my computer--you just contributed to the size of one of the files--FABBING ****!

Seriously--great job!

One question--please describe the types of situations/lifts/jobs where you:

a) need so many hooks (I realize you don't use them all simultaneously), and

b) have the outer hooks reversed. That looks badass, and I wondered why/where that comes in handy, because I'm sure it does.

Now, I realize the answers are going to be as "elegant" (in a masculine sense, but meaning SIMPLE AND WELL-THOUGHT OUT) as your work, but I'm asking anyway. I want hooks!

Also, I'd be interested to know the welder type--MIG? Stick? TIG?

And the wire size, shielding gas (if any?) welder amp capacity and the POWER SETTINGS you used for welding:

1) The 3/16" square tube, and;

2) Mounting the hooks

Thanks,

My Hoe

 

[zmansmac]

My Hoe & Landshark67, thanks for all the kind words. BTW, how did you know that I ended up taking 4 years of Latin in high school? The reason for so many hooks is simple, at least in my mind. Sometimes you need to lift something and want to have that load concentrated in the center, like pulling up fence poles or bushes for instance. Other times you may have something bigger (wider) to lift and want your connection points toward each end of the FEL arms. The reverse hooks are when you need to loop a chain around something. You can use any length of chain and don't even need a hook on the end. This also allows you to lash your load closer to the crossbar for higher lift capability and less swinging action when moving. The hooks are the plain Jane type you can get at Tractor Supply. I just build up the weld around the contact points. The heavy tube stock I used was also planned because of the receiver hitch. I used a Lincoln 170T Mig welder with .035" wire and Argon/CO2 mix gas. I don't remember for sure but I probably used the 2nd highest amp setting. I hope I've answered all your questions.

JohnZ
B7500

 

[Artisan]

You can buy FEL QA's, quality units at that from HERE

Here is a nice U Tuber of it, I think he calls it the Tach N' Go ...
New Kubota BX Quick attach - YouTube

 

[not2old]

This looks like an excellent design to me. I'm now planning the same for my Massey GC2610 as nobody makes them for my machine. Do you know how much loader capacity you've lost with the extra distance the bucket is from the arms? I don't know how to calculate it, and it's important to me as I find my machine JUST adequate for my needs. I'm planning a lighter crossbar to keep the weight down and will use the carrier I build for my forks to mount the trailer ball or receiver and hope to include a device for moving my 5th wheel trailer. I've started building a larger bucket for snow clearing and will also make a gin pole to re & re my truck canopy more easily, and maybe load my snowmobile. These are only practical with a quick attach. Thanks for the clear pictures and instructions. It will likely save me lots of time and trial work. It's also nice to know something will work after you spend the time to make it.

 

[zmansmac]

Not2old, thanks for the kudos. No, I don't know how much loader capacity I lost, but in a sense I don't care. The reason is because last year when my original loader lift cylinders were leaking I decided to upgrade to larger ones which increased my lift capacity in the 30-35% range. I don't know how to calculate the loss but since were only talking a 2- 2 1/2 inch distance further out it can't be much. That said, you could always increase your hydraulic pressure setting slightly higher to make up for this small loss.

JohnZ
B7500

 

[Bob77064]

Good job, that looks great.