Diesel 2?

[virgil]

"what about the trucker filling up and heading north?"

When I knew I was going to get into that deadly cold, I would take on some winter mix. 30 to 100 gallons per tank, depending on how cold and which states / provences I was going threw.
When it got that dangerous, I always had several days of food, clothes (clean and dirty), oil, antifreeze, acohol (for the air brakes), IN THE CAB with me. Never had a real problem up there, just a few times I was stranded and had to hunker down and ride it out.

This Texan does not like the bad cold up there.

 

[warringt]

I have been told by several people (Eastern PA and Delaware), one of which was a PhD Chemist, that home heating oil is virtually the same as diesel. It is even called "#2 heating oil" by most of the delivery guys around here. It looks like brown diesel fuel to the eye (when one of them spilled it on the pavement at a house I used to live at!) and smells the same. Does anybody else have any info on whether or not you can use it in a diesel tractor???? /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[cowboydoc]

You'd be crazy to use it in a tractor unless you talked to the supplier and he told you that yes it is exactly the same stuff. Home heating fuel is usually the bottom of the diesel tanks, older fuel, etc. It is certainly not the top of the line fuel that you want in your vehicle or your tractor. Your furnace doesn't need the good clean fuel like a vehicle or tractor does. It doesn't have a $3000 injector system to ruin.

 

[virgil]

good answer Mr. cowboydoc...$3,000.00 injector system to ruin.

 

[Varmintmist]

#2 home heating and #2 deisel are the same thing. There isnt enough left at the bottom of the tanks in the world to fuel the homes in the NE that burn oil so put that fairy tale to rest now. I have a pump on my fuel tank and run it in this tractor and the one I had before. Prior to owning tractors #2 HH was run in our deisel machines with no trouble.

#2 home heating and #2 OFF road diesel are the same. Not on road which is where most folks mess up I think. #1 is Kero, you can call it #1 heating, or #1, or degreaser, its still kerosene and is different than #2 HH and of road deisel
If you go up to fuels additives there is a good thread on this same subject.

fuel oil

 

[cowboydoc]

#1 is NOT kerosene. At least not anyplace I've ever been. #1 is usually more of a lighter diesel or blended. Kerosene is kerosene.

I also didn't mean that ALL of the home fuel is the bottom of the barrel. My uncle owns a fuel distribution business and one of my good friends also owns one here. Both of them have told me many times DON'T use home heating oil for the tractors or the vehicles. All of the fuel that is questionable always goes to the home heating oil places. If they know it's being used for both they make sure it's good fuel but if it's just somebodies house they will get the bottom of the tanks, the older fuel, possible contaminated fuel, mixed fuel, etc.

 

[cowboydoc]

The following is directly from Chevron's website.

<font color="red"> RELATED PRODUCTS
Some petroleum products have similar, but not identical, specifications and physical properties. For example, No. 2 fuel oil and No. 2-GT gas turbine fuel are similar to No. 2-D diesel fuel. And No. 1-GT gas turbine fuel oil, Jet A Aviation Turbine Fuel, and kerosine, the product specifically sold for use in lamps and stoves, are similar to No. 1-D diesel fuel.5
<font color="green"> . The fuel properties needed to keep a lamp burning are not nearly so stringent as those required to keep a jet aircraft aloft. Products with similar physical properties should not be used interchangeably without a complete understanding of the requirements of the intended use. </font>

<font color="green">What is the difference between No. 1-D diesel fuel and No. 2-D diesel fuel and can they be used interchangeably?
Always check with the manufacturer about the fuel requirements of your engine. However, both No. 1-D and No. 2-D are intended for use in compression ignition engines. In fact, in cold weather, No. 1-D is blended into No. 2-D or used by itself.
Three of the biggest differences between the two fuels are cetane number, heat content, and viscosity. The cetane number of No. 1-D may be one to two numbers below that of No. 2-D, but still above 40, the required minimum.

Since No. 1-D is less dense then No. 2-D, its heat content, measured in Btu/gallon, will be a few percent lower, leading to a similar reduction in fuel economy.

The lubricity of No. 1-D is likely to be slightly lower than that of No. 2-D because of its lower viscosity. Its lubricity is unlikely to be low enough to cause catastrophic failure. However, a steady diet of No. 1-D in equipment designed for No. 2-D may result in greater long term wear in the fuel delivery system.

</font>




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</font>

<font color="red"> The term diesel fuel is generic; it refers to any fuel for a compression ignition engine. However, in common use, it refers to the fuels made commercially for diesel-powered vehicles. In the United States, this is primarily Grade No. 2-D diesel fuel. However, two other grades, Grade No. 1-D and Grade No. 4-D, are also in commercial use. These grade designations are established by the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM). The grades are numbered in order of increasing density and viscosity, with No. 1-D the lightest and No. 4-D the heaviest (see Chapter 5 for more information on diesel fuel specifications).
</font>

So yes while the fuel for home and vehicle may be similiar they are NOT completely identical.

 

[BobInMN]

This site is a little technical, but maybe it will help describe the difference between fuels:

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question105.htm

 

[TBAR]

Everything you ever wanted to know about Diesel Fuels.


TBAR

 

[Junkman]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( You'd be crazy to use it in a tractor unless you talked to the supplier and he told you that yes it is exactly the same stuff. Home heating fuel is usually the bottom of the diesel tanks, older fuel, etc. It is certainly not the top of the line fuel that you want in your vehicle or your tractor. Your furnace doesn't need the good clean fuel like a vehicle or tractor does. It doesn't have a $3000 injector system to ruin. )</font>

I can't hold back any longer. This information that Cowboydoc is spewing is completely wrong. Home heating oil is clean product and not the bottom of the barrel as he has indicated. If you think that home heating oil is such poor quality, then please tell me how in the world the train operators use it in the diesel locomotives? I know this as a first hand fact because I know a company that fuels these big diesel locomotives from their tank trucks every day with thousands of gallons of home heating oil. The sulfur content of home heating oil is regulated by provisions of the Federal Clean Air Act and enforced by the Federal & States Department of Environmental Protection. In fact, in the Northeast, the home heating oil that comes out of the oil depots in both Quincy MA and Bridgeport CT don't differentiate between home heating oil and standard diesel with the exception of adding the red dye. When people refer to high sulfur diesel, the sulfur content is higher than the fuel that they call low sulfur, but even the high sulfur diesel is much lower today than it was 10 or 15 years ago. Both high and low are relative terms to each other, but unless you know what the PPM's are of each, the terms are irrelevant. If you believe that a oil burner in a home isn't very particular about the cleanliness of the fuel that it burns, then you know nothing about oil burners. If you try to push dirty fuel through a oil burner, you will clog the filters, the screen behind the nozzle, and ultimately the nozzle also. You will also put soot on the cad cell blocking all light and the burner will shut down immediately. The cad cell is the safety device that detects a flame and shuts the pump down if it doesn't see a flame. The days of burning bunker-c in all but certain commercial operations are almost all gone. The furnaces of the past could handle almost any fuel, but todays modern furnaces have the same requirements of cleanliness of fuel that your tractor has. Oils are graded from 1 through 6 and the differences between them is very specific. I know of no oil dealer that would gamble his business by mixing oils today and deliver a inferior product.
Possibly the reason you believe the way you do is in the states of Iowa and Idaho all the fuel dealers are selling you the crap from the bottom of their tanks and that is why we in the Northeast must put up with the darn acid rain and pollution that you are creating! /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif
Just like you are in the cattle business and know cattle and would not appreciate me making miss statements about cattle and mad cow disease, I was in the oil delivery business and know oil, how it is handled and what goes where. Yes, there is the bottom of the tanks that has dirty oil in them, this is the nature of the product, but it isn't sold off as home heating oil. It is periodically removed and it is sold for a completely different purpose where its impurities are not a problem. An example of this use would be refuse burning facilities where a flame is directed into the chamber to continue the burn process and there are stack scrubbers that remove any contaminants that would be going up the chimney.
If you think that low sulfur fuel is the best, they this article will be of interest to you. web page