Diesel Engine Oil

[RalphVa]

I use 5w-30 Mobil 1 in my 4010 John Deere engine. You're better off with 5w rather than 10w. The oil will get to the upper valve assembly much quicker, and it'll STILL be heavier at startup than 30w is at operating temperature.

Ralph

 

[Mahana79]

i use Rotella T 15W40 In my Kubota nd D-Max and Rotella T synthetic 5W40 in my TDI. all of my used oil reports have come back just fine using shell oil and WIX filters

 

[cp1969]

I use 5w-30 Mobil 1 in my 4010 John Deere engine. You're better off with 5w rather than 10w. The oil will get to the upper valve assembly much quicker, and it'll STILL be heavier at startup than 30w is at operating temperature.

Ralph

I think more is made of this characteristic (flowing to top end quicker) than is really justified. Who has seen the valve train assemblies of an engine wear out quicker due to lube failure than the rings and bearings? The only ones I can remember were the old Y block Ford V8's and that was because they had a poorly designed lube system that would plug and wouldn't allow any oil at all to get there. The quick fix on those engines was to run an external oil line (which couldn't have been more than 1/8" ID) and those engines were usually running straight 20 or 30 wt dino oil.

So, if old dino 30 could flow through those lines soon enough and with enough volume to make the top end happy, I'm thinking it isn't the big issue the oil manufacturer's would like us to believe. More of a marketing gimmick than a real wear issue. Yes, it gets there faster. Does it make a material difference in how long the upper end lasts? Probably not, because all the stuff is coated with oil from the last time it ran and in the time it takes to heat up, oil is there. According to Comp Cams, the main thing upper end lube is doing is carrying away heat from the valve springs and those springs aren't going to get that hot before oil gets there.