Diesel Tractor, Hot hot is too hot? Im a newbie

[Transit]

Well I pulled the upper radiator hose off right above the thermostat and started the tractor and let it idle for 15 minutes. Thermostst didnt open. So maybe its just cold blooded?? Its 65 degrees outside today. Im gonna still put a gauge in but maybe Im just worrying too much. I did see that while it was running, there was bubbling and diesel leaking around one of the injectors where it goes into the head. Maybe it needs a seal?? Any input would be helpful.

That dose not sound right, the T-stat valve has a notch in it to let any trapped air to escape, you most likely need more 50-50 coolant mix. The normal coolant level is about 1 inch above the radiator core.

BTW, KEEP THE UPPER RADIATOR HOSE CONNECTED AT ALL TIMES. If you want to see what is going on just remove the radiator cap and keep it off before starting the engine. In not, when that T-stat opens you will be eyeball to eyeball with HOT coolant.

The injector hard lines may need a tweak. CAUSION, the fuel pressure at the injector is about 1,400- 2,000 psi and cuts like a razor.


Jinman, x 10.
The advice you have been given is a bit too general.
First you need to know what the temperature spec's are for that engine.
The temperature stamped on the T-stat.
To convert from Centigrade to Fahrenheit, Temp[F] = 1.8 x temp[C] + 32
At 70'C, 1.8 x 70 + 32 = 158'F
At 75'C, 1.8 x 75 + 32 = 167'F

A half hour idling should have the engine warmed to very near the T-stat temperature.
Normal loading should add another 5 deg. or so.
At max power on a hot day you will see 200F.
If you are seeing 210 to 220 F you are at the limits. DO NOT shut the engine down, remove the loan, and let it idle at 1,200 or so rpm to cool down.

YOU MUST ALWAYS RUN WITH A T-STAT.

Temp Gauge, yes. Install the sensor on the engine side of the T-stat.
Pressure Gauge, yes. Install the sensor at the same location as the idiot light sensor with a Tee fitting if you wish to have both.

Break in, yes. Follow the instructions.

Rule of thumb. Oil and filter change after the first 50 hours, then every 100 hr or once a year. Use a CC rated 15w40 oil.
You may also need to torque the head bolts and set the valve lash at 50 to 100 hr. Follow the engine manufactures instructions.

Synthetic oil? Only after 3 to 400 hr of run time.

 

[knightrider955]

That dose not sound right, the T-stat valve has a notch in it to let any trapped air to escape, you most likely need more 50-50 coolant mix. The normal coolant level is about 1 inch above the radiator core.

BTW, KEEP THE UPPER RADIATOR HOSE CONNECTED AT ALL TIMES. If you want to see what is going on just remove the radiator cap and keep it off before starting the engine. In not, when that T-stat opens you will be eyeball to eyeball with HOT coolant.

The injector hard lines may need a tweak. CAUSION, the fuel pressure at the injector is about 1,400- 2,000 psi and cuts like a razor.


Jinman, x 10.
The advice you have been given is a bit too general.
First you need to know what the temperature spec's are for that engine.
The temperature stamped on the T-stat.
To convert from Centigrade to Fahrenheit, Temp[F] = 1.8 x temp[C] + 32
At 70'C, 1.8 x 70 + 32 = 158'F
At 75'C, 1.8 x 75 + 32 = 167'F

A half hour idling should have the engine warmed to very near the T-stat temperature.
Normal loading should add another 5 deg. or so.
At max power on a hot day you will see 200F.
If you are seeing 210 to 220 F you are at the limits. DO NOT shut the engine down, remove the loan, and let it idle at 1,200 or so rpm to cool down.

YOU MUST ALWAYS RUN WITH A T-STAT.

Temp Gauge, yes. Install the sensor on the engine side of the T-stat.
Pressure Gauge, yes. Install the sensor at the same location as the idiot light sensor with a Tee fitting if you wish to have both.

Break in, yes. Follow the instructions.

Rule of thumb. Oil and filter change after the first 50 hours, then every 100 hr or once a year. Use a CC rated 15w40 oil.
You may also need to torque the head bolts and set the valve lash at 50 to 100 hr. Follow the engine manufactures instructions.

Synthetic oil? Only after 3 to 400 hr of run time.

Thanks alot for the good advise. Im gonna pick up a temp gauge tonight at NAPA and hook it up.

 

[Cline bailing]

Its a diesel just keep the radiator clean and it will run full throttle all day. keep air filter clean diesels use 4 times as much air as a gas engine. you don't really need a idiot gauge they don't tell you the true working temp 9 times out of 10.

 

[banjodunn]

G'day all good advice given so far:thumbsup: as far as the radiator being hot at the top and cool at bottom that just means the rad is doing its job properly and cooling the coolant as it passes through it, as far as break in goes work it as normal don't baby it or you will end up using oil, change engine oil and filter at 25 hours and also check head tensions ( unless it has been fitted with a mono torque type head gasket that does not need to be retensioned) and check valve clearances then you should be right to continue along normal service patterns as stated by the manufacturer. Good luck with it all and hope you get years of good service from it



Jon

 

[RickB]

half hour idling should have the engine warmed to very near the T-stat temperature.

As an across-the-board statement, this is true about 1/2 the time. My Ford 4000 will idle all day and not bump the temp gauge.

Pressure Gauge, yes. Install the sensor at the same location as the idiot light sensor with a Tee fitting if you wish to have both.

I have yet to see a tractor of any size with a cooling system pressure gauge as standard or factory optional equipment. Installing a temp sender in a tee fitting and not directly into the cylinder head or thermostat housing guarantees the gauge or light will read low to the point of being useless. The temperature sensor must be directly in the coolant flow, period.

Use a CC rated 15w40 oil.

How many times has this specification been superceded, and where in North America would the OP find a bottle of oil with this spec printed on it? CG, CH-4, or CI-4 are what is to be found at 99% of retailers. You are sending him on a search for something not readily available.

 

[Transit]

A] Your Ford Tractor may have a problem, 99% will show a temperature at idle.

B] The OP was asking about installing a PRESSURE GAUGE in place of IDIOT LIGHT.

C] CC=Compression Combustion, the official term for DEISL LUBERCATION OIL.

C] SI=Spark Ignition

 

[RickB]

A] Your Ford Tractor may have a problem, 99% will show a temperature at idle.

Your tune is changing.

"showing temp" is different from opening the thermostat after idling for a half-hour. My tractor WILL show movement in the temp gauge; the thermostat will not open until real work is done. This is normal for many tractors.

B] The OP was asking about installing a PRESSURE GAUGE in place of IDIOT LIGHT..

And removing the temp sender to put the temp sender and a new pressure sender in a tee fitting is bad advise for the stated reason.

C] CC=Compression Combustion, the official term for DEISL LUBERCATION OIL.

C] SI=Spark Ignition

You're half right. The first 'C' refers to compression ignition. The second letter is the specification level, and the CC spec is obsolete. Read here & learn:

API Oil Service Categories

 

[knightrider955]

Actually when I said pressure gauge I meant oil pressure gauge. It currently has a dummy light and I want to get rid of that, It does puff a little blue smoke when I give it throttle so I guessing that maybe the rings havent seated yet??. It has used some oil but it isnt leaking it anywhere. I worked it hard the other day and the water in the bottom of the radiator was warm so I guess the thermostat is working. I just wasnt using it hard enough for it to get warm. Also will it hurt it running regular highway diesel in it or should I stay with the off road stuff? Whats a good motor oil to run in it? It also has a oil bath air filter. Should I swap that out for a good paper one?

 

[Car Doc]

Also will it hurt it running regular highway diesel in it or should I stay with the off road stuff? Whats a good motor oil to run in it? It also has a oil bath air filter. Should I swap that out for a good paper one?

Oil bath is the very best filtration system you can use keep it and service it now and then. I would and do use off road fuel its the same just has dye in it and its cheaper at least around here it is usually about .50c less.

You might want to get some white bottle power service fuel additive also since winter is about here don't rely on the fuel suppliers to do it. I use Rotella T 15-40 oil in my Yanmar diesel tractor.

 

[Mace Canute]

Actually when I said pressure gauge I meant oil pressure gauge. It currently has a dummy light and I want to get rid of that.

While these lights are often referred to as idiot lights or dummy lights, they have the advantage over a gauge of being able to catch your attention with your peripheral vision giving you a much better chance of reacting to a loss of oil pressure before it does a lot of damage. Others have T-eed into the oil pressure port and kept the light and installed a gauge also, best of both worlds. Some guys here have posted pics of that and have done such a good job, it looks like a factory install!

Also will it hurt it running regular highway diesel in it or should I stay with the off road stuff?

The only difference in the fuel is the color which identifies which one has the road tax applied. You can use on-road fuel off-road but if they catch you using off-road fuel on-road, you are in for a great deal of trouble!

Whats a good motor oil to run in it?

I am partial to Texas Refinery Corporation oils and greases.

It also has a oil bath air filter. Should I swap that out for a good paper one?

No! Oil bath filters are excellent filters. Just service it as per requirements and use the correct grade of oil in it and maintain the correct oil level also.