Diff lock operation

[Trkrd]

Since owning my 240D I have only used the diff lock once or twice, mainly just use 4wd in the slippery stuff. With all the precipitation here lately things are getting quite sloppy and locking the diff would be a little extra insurance when travelling through this greasy Arkansas mud. My question is should the lock be engaged at a standstill with clutch in? or when rolling?

 

[1danny]

Since owning my 240D I have only used the diff lock once or twice, mainly just use 4wd in the slippery stuff. With all the precipitation here lately things are getting quite sloppy and locking the diff would be a little extra insurance when travelling through this greasy Arkansas mud. My question is should the lock be engaged at a standstill with clutch in? or when rolling?

Standstill.

Danny

 

[carpenter383]

I usually engage mine when rolling, it won't easilly engage until the rear wheels turn at different speeds. It should be spring loaded to pop out when you lift your foot off of it, but it might not pop out until you take the load off of the diff.
The diff lock should be used while going straight only unless it's really sloppy, 'cause it dosen't allow the rear wheels to turn at different speeds in a turn.

 

[Trkrd]

Hmmm......1 vote rolling, 1 vote standstill

 

[carpenter383]

Hmmm......1 vote rolling, 1 vote standstill

It won't hurt the diff either way, just don't try to engage it while spinning 1 tire in high gear and you should be fine.
You can try to engage the diff at a standstill, but it probably won't "go in" until you start moving or loose traction anyway

 

[careyo63]

My vote C doesn't matter.Why would anyone want to ingage it if your moving. The only time I did I was stuck spinning.Not moving.
But for it to lock in you have to move spin the gears. Trying to move

Carey

 

[Trkrd]

The few times I tried it was rolling. It (the pedal) would not go all the way down at first so I babied it, keeping just a little pressure on it until it engaged. Does this sound right? I just like to have it locked in anticipation of the nastiness I'm about to go through. Better to roll through than to start spinning and get stuck. IMHO

 

[arrow]

Mine will not engage until I spin the tire just a bit. Slowly. I sheared off all the differential bolts on my JD 750 by engaging the lock whilst the tire was madly spinning. It took 19 years of this abuse but the tractor stopped moving one day in 2wd.

 

[normde2001]

I suspect Danny read the manual.

 

[SPYDERLK]

It won't hurt the diff either way, just don't try to engage it while spinning 1 tire in high gear and you should be fine.
You can try to engage the diff at a standstill, but it probably won't "go in" until you start moving or loose traction anyway

I suspect Danny read the manual.

I suspect theres a little more to truth than a manual.
larry

 

[California]

Danny has a shelf of manuals, he's a dealer!

The manual says engage the difflock 'at a standstill'.
But in my experience the tires have to be turning at different speeds before its two halves will engage. (#18,19 in this Hoyetractors.com diagram).

(The diagram shows a YM1510. My YM186D is the same).

And I'll repeat the warning in the manual to just nudge the difflock lever down, don't stand on it! Here's why:

A significant flaw when I bought my much-abused YM186D last summer was the difflock engagement was flaky. Those #18,19 engagement dogs were fine, what had happened was that rollpin #13 engaged a worn hollow next to where the #12 arrow points to, on the shifter fork. Stepping on the difflock pedal didn't move the shifter far enough. (The taper in that V is supposed to make the fork slide sideways when the rollpin presses against it).

Welding back some metal there uphill from the tip of the #12 arrow to fill the worn spot, then grind/polish to bring the profile back to original, restored the difflock function. I expect the wear was caused by the previous owner standing on the difflock lever. Seems to me that excessive force could also bend or shatter the rollpin.

 

[normde2001]

I suspect theres a little more to truth than a manual.
larry

Duh, what does that mean?

 

[careyo63]

standｷstill[ st疣d st? ]NOUN
1. complete halt: a situation in which all movement or activity ceases and further movement or activity is prevented.

I Suspect he may have pulled the wrong manual. I don't think that would be a good description of how it works. HeHeHeHe

 

[winston1]

Duh, what does that mean?

What I think he means is sometimes you have to read between the lines. I know on my 2002 it will not necessarly engage at a standstill. I would assume those "dogs" may not be aligned. Seems to me you better be careful engaging so you won't tear something up!

 

[PILOON]

I say, slow and easy does it.

I have to allow some slight rotation for it to engage, stands to reason if you look at the cogs.
Both are square cut and simply won't engage until propery aligned but at very slow rotation they slip or pop in with ease.

I did say, SLOW LOW RPM they are not syncromeshed!

 

[normde2001]

What I think he means is sometimes you have to read between the lines. I know on my 2002 it will not necessarly engage at a standstill. I would assume those "dogs" may not be aligned. Seems to me you better be careful engaging so you won't tear something up!

You just have to sometimes slip the clutch a little bit to relieve the pressure, but still at a standstill.

 

[SPYDERLK]

You just have to sometimes slip the clutch a little bit to relieve the pressure, but still at a standstill.

There is no pressure. Slipping the clutch will have no effect. If the cogs dont align, the only thing that will align them to allow engagement is some differential motion of the rears. Hence, apply engagement pressure as you start into the area where you think youll need a solid axle, or before you let out the clutch if youre already stuck. If theyre not aligned they will not engage until a differential wheel slip occurs. After that there will be pressure.
larry

 

[normde2001]

There is no pressure. Slipping the clutch will have no effect. If the cogs dont align, the only thing that will align them to allow engagement is some differential motion of the rears. Hence, apply engagement pressure as you start into the area where you think youll need a solid axle, or before you let out the clutch if youre already stuck. If theyre not aligned they will not engage until a differential wheel slip occurs. After that there will be pressure.
larry

I'm sure you know best; however, I will go by what the Yanmar engineers say.

 

[Trkrd]

After a look at the diagram California posted, it all makes sense to me now. Resembles front hub locks on a 4WD vehicle. Will require a little movement to engage completely. I messed around with it a little bit yesterday. Moving slowly in a straight line with light pressure on the lever, if it does not engage right away, a slight turn to left or right and it pops right in.

 

[MJPetersen]

After a look at the diagram California posted, it all makes sense to me now. Resembles front hub locks on a 4WD vehicle. Will require a little movement to engage completely. I messed around with it a little bit yesterday. Moving slowly in a straight line with light pressure on the lever, if it does not engage right away, a slight turn to left or right and it pops right in.

Exactly. But I normally do not engage mine until I need to extract myself from a situation (I use them like my buffer--not to do more, but to get me out when I tried to do too much). I Usually hold light pressure and start to try to move, when one wheel turns a little it pops right in. I had mine apart this past summer because the shaft was rusted in the hole and it would stay in whatever position I left it until I physically moved it to another position; down, half down, up. It was that way from when I bought it, but now it works as it was supposed to (spring loaded to return to disengaged.)

I took these pics when I was searching for the little ball that fell out when the 3 pt lift control broke. It took some digging. The second square cut engage pawn is sitting on the fender and the right hand axle is out. I was in a hurry to finish a job or I would have fixed my diff lock at this time.

I have had that back PTO section out so many times now that i think that it ought to be installed with a zipper to make it easier.

Mike