Digging ditch line
- Thread starter thunder86
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RNeumann
Elite Member
Yes you are doing something wrong if that’s all that is done!
It looks like you have the side to side tilt set correctly but you need more front to back tilt with the top link. I when I do something like that with my box I tip it back (extend top link) and do the rough cutting while driving backwards. Then fine tune going forwards.
Basically to make rough and or bigger cuts use that back blade and drive backwards. You can really tip it so it’s cutting fairly aggressively!!!
You big issue will be tree roots based on the photo.....
It looks like you have the side to side tilt set correctly but you need more front to back tilt with the top link. I when I do something like that with my box I tip it back (extend top link) and do the rough cutting while driving backwards. Then fine tune going forwards.
Basically to make rough and or bigger cuts use that back blade and drive backwards. You can really tip it so it’s cutting fairly aggressively!!!
You big issue will be tree roots based on the photo.....
I found that when ditching the box blade will fill up mostly on one side then quit digging. I have to drag it to the end of the ditch and dump it. Mine cuts for about 6-10 feet then stops cutting when full. The top link is shortened and the box blade cuts very well until full.
The rear blade that will angle and tilt will cut continuously the full length of the ditch since it moves the dirt to the side and doesn't carry it along. This also means doing more cleanup work than when using the box blade, if I don't want that ridge of removed dirt beside the ditch.
Bruce
The rear blade that will angle and tilt will cut continuously the full length of the ditch since it moves the dirt to the side and doesn't carry it along. This also means doing more cleanup work than when using the box blade, if I don't want that ridge of removed dirt beside the ditch.
Bruce
Botaskinner
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- Kubota B2320 w/4' Land Pride Box Blade, FEL, Middle Buster, Pirhana tooth bar
I cut 170 feet of ditch about a foot deep at one end and 6" deep at the other, using a 4 foot BB and my B2320. It took me just 2 or 3 hours.
Are your scarifiers all the way down?
I did mine going forward with a shortened top link for a more aggressive cut.
Are your scarifiers all the way down?
I did mine going forward with a shortened top link for a more aggressive cut.
I pulled my scarifiers all the way up when I angled it. I did run my box blade straight with scarifiers down first few passes before I angled it.
When I go backwards I move nothing, it rides along the dirt and the tractor struggles.
Do I need my top link extended all the way or tightened all the way in? I need to watch some videos on setup.
When I go backwards I move nothing, it rides along the dirt and the tractor struggles.
Do I need my top link extended all the way or tightened all the way in? I need to watch some videos on setup.
kthompson
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thunder86, If you have middle buster or subsoiler run them where you want the make your ditch first. If you have a rear blade it should work much better if you rotate it both ways, angled the cutting edge forward and lower it. I am assuming the box blade is the only tool you have. If so even leaves can build up under it making it hard to cut into the dirt. Of course roots will. If you box blade has rear blade tilt by shorting the 3rd arm to get the rear blade clear as you need all the weight on the front blade. You may well need to place weight on the end that is cutting. I have used box blade for back filling or leveling dirt backing up with good results. Back up have damaged when hitting stumps and would not want to use it backwards with the roots you will likely hit. The third arm and it's mount are not designed for pushing, well mine are not.
DJ54
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It sounds bass-ackwards, but now that you have the ditch line struck off, start at the outlet end. Tilt the box slightly forward, so the material tumbles forward. It doesn't take a lot, just so it is always barely creeping on the face of the blade. Once the box blade is to full capacity, it should theoretically float across previous passes, if you have the top link adjusted properly. Rolling/moving dirt on the face of the blade moves a lot easier, than a box full of dirt just crammed in there.
I don't know if your scarifier teeth can be set at different depths, but setting them just an inch or two deeper than your cutting edge should be enough. It does take a certain amount of crowd, to force the dirt to roll on the blade, rather than trying to move a lot of fluff. After multiple passes, it should get longer and smoother.
With the leaves and debris pictured, I can only imagine you made a lot of trips, with dirt and debris in the box blade, dragging it across all of those leaves, further towards the outlet, getting a massive gob of both behind you. Personally, I would have (and maybe you did) again started at the outlet end, and made multiple passes clearing the surface of leaves, etc., just prepping it to get to the dirt, putting it off to the side, out of the way,yet close enough to retrieve it. It would make a great dressing/mulch for the spoils from the cut, to prevent it from washing.
I have no idea how far of a cut it will take to fill the box blade to capacity in that material, but guessing 10' - 15'..?? Looks like you've made enough passes, you ought to have a good idea. If you are at near grade on the outlet end, making a longer loaded pass across that portion, so as to float across may be needed. If it needs to go a lot deeper, make shorter passes, to make a cut to the end.
Once you get the gist of it, and how well it works, the end result becomes much clearer. I'm sure you'll have to make more than several adjustments along the way. but a couple turns on the top link, or nudge if it's hydraulic, or bump the 3 pt. arms to get across a low spot, gets easier, and easier.
I don't know if your scarifier teeth can be set at different depths, but setting them just an inch or two deeper than your cutting edge should be enough. It does take a certain amount of crowd, to force the dirt to roll on the blade, rather than trying to move a lot of fluff. After multiple passes, it should get longer and smoother.
With the leaves and debris pictured, I can only imagine you made a lot of trips, with dirt and debris in the box blade, dragging it across all of those leaves, further towards the outlet, getting a massive gob of both behind you. Personally, I would have (and maybe you did) again started at the outlet end, and made multiple passes clearing the surface of leaves, etc., just prepping it to get to the dirt, putting it off to the side, out of the way,yet close enough to retrieve it. It would make a great dressing/mulch for the spoils from the cut, to prevent it from washing.
I have no idea how far of a cut it will take to fill the box blade to capacity in that material, but guessing 10' - 15'..?? Looks like you've made enough passes, you ought to have a good idea. If you are at near grade on the outlet end, making a longer loaded pass across that portion, so as to float across may be needed. If it needs to go a lot deeper, make shorter passes, to make a cut to the end.
Once you get the gist of it, and how well it works, the end result becomes much clearer. I'm sure you'll have to make more than several adjustments along the way. but a couple turns on the top link, or nudge if it's hydraulic, or bump the 3 pt. arms to get across a low spot, gets easier, and easier.
RNeumann
Elite Member
Top link way out, that little tractor in low range
the old grind
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I found my landscape rake to be the best for crowning, grading, and shallow ditching. It's teeth pluck individual stones/roots vs ride over them and without being weighted. Angle adjustment allows how much mat'l is moved to center or side along with tilt tweaks for amount of bite.
Box blades too often cause ripples with light passes. Rakes and blades at angles fix 'em. I might just set one or two scarifiers only one notch down on the digging side of a BB. Hopefully, they'd try to pull the blade down into the cut. btw, IMO gauge wheels on a blade or rake easily double it's utility, if the one thing a BB doesn't need.
Box blades too often cause ripples with light passes. Rakes and blades at angles fix 'em. I might just set one or two scarifiers only one notch down on the digging side of a BB. Hopefully, they'd try to pull the blade down into the cut. btw, IMO gauge wheels on a blade or rake easily double it's utility, if the one thing a BB doesn't need.
chas0218
Gold Member
Why not use your bucket or get your hands on a 1 bottom plow? Digging with the bucket now that you have a set line shouldn't be too hard and you already broke up the dirt with the scarifiers. Also your soil looks really sandy so it should dig nice.
