Dirt shedder ramps

[nikerret]

Toro? You need to upgrade to a Kubota to match your other mowers!

I think I've had mine for about 25yrs and still going strong.View attachment 705414

Those Kubota push mowers are very hard to find. I looked for a long time and never even got close to getting a crappy one.

 

[TMGT]

Those Kubota push mowers are very hard to find. I looked for a long time and never even got close to getting a crappy one.

I bought this one used from a pawn shop in 94 I belive, they were still being sold new as I remember seeing one in the showroom at the dealer.
It was the first Kubota product I owned.

They actually just came out with a new model fairly recently that is pretty impressive, although expensive, but it appears to have fixed the few shortcomings with my model.

 

[nikerret]

I bought this one used from a pawn shop in 94 I belive, they were still being sold new as I remember seeing one in the showroom at the dealer.
It was the first Kubota product I owned.

They actually just came out with a new model fairly recently that is pretty impressive, although expensive, but it appears to have fixed the few shortcomings with my model.

Wow. Looks like they are back in the “trim mower“ market (in the US). For several years, they weren’t available. I’m not in the $1,500 trim mower market, right now, but it’s nice to see the offering back.

 

[RancherGuy]

So if one were to buy a deck over with dirt shedder ramps like my Kaufman GN, is there a way to install something to make it easier to run small tire equipment up the ramps?
Looks like ordering a trailer is a bridge to nowhere and dealers do have a few in stock that meet most of my needs. Really don’t want to go this route, but it is what it is.
Dirt shedder bars make running zero turns up the ramps a very uncomfortable experience.
Weld mesh on them? Install wedges in between bars?
I haven’t found ONE trailer with wood filled monster ramps.

First a comment, then an idea.

I built some ramps for my 16' lowboy, thus they are detachable. For them, I used a relatively thick angle iron between drill pipe, but I welded the angle irons upside-down (as a V), thus there are 2 points of contact for every angle iron. Works great and gives plenty of traction and a very smooth ride. I understand that one of the objectives of the common design (as a ^) is that water does not accumulate, but that upside-down idea would not be an issue for your lower sections. Maybe consider cutting and rewelding?

Another idea may be to cut wood pieces to lie between the angle irons, then run a steel bar strap across them in the fore/aft direction to hold them as one piece and keep them suspended. Maybe use small light angle irons instead of bar steel. Thus make a set of 4 to address the 4 ramp sections. Make them just wide enough for the equipment you have in mind to keep handling weight down.

 

[bcp]

Replace the angle iron on the ramps with bar grating.

Bruce

 

[fried1765]

Replace the angle iron on the ramps with bar grating.

View attachment 705593


Bruce

Very heavy!!!

 

[civilian]

This is an edge view of the expanded metal on my equipment trailer. Length of the diamond is about 2 1/2", while thickness is about 1/4". Each gate half has 4 pcs of 3" channnel on end. The narrow side of the channel supports the expanded metal.. Channels are about 1+ft apart. Your ramps may need to have this expanded metal placed 90 degrees from mine. Good luck OP with your trailer dilemma. Jon