Egon
Epic Contributor
Dean:
From the information: Landing Strips
Egon /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
From the information: Landing Strips
Egon /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
DIRTY CEMENT.
- Thread starter LBrown59
- Start date
- Views: 6977
Bob_Skurka
Super Member
- Joined
- Jul 1, 2003
- Messages
- 7,615
Dean & Egon
I think there are "landings strips" and then there are LANDING STRIPS. Now I am just guessing here on the abilities of PolyPavement. There is a farmer near me with his own fleet of small planes, he has a grass runway. I would think PolyPavement would probably suit his needs very nicely . . . on the other hand, we fly in & out of Chicago O'Hare airport pretty much every month and I think those big heavy jets would probably sink in the farmer's grass runway even if it was treated with this stuff. JMuninformedHO
mrcaptainbob
Just a couple thoughts on your price comparison. Labor costs, or at least labor time should be lower with the Poly. Also, while the cost per CUBIC inch of the poly product is roughly equal to concrete when using the highest saturation ratio, the application charts show that you probably don't need to go as deep as concrete for many applications. A minimal application (at least in my area) of concrete is 4" and that is over a layer of sand and a layer of gravel. Polypavement, doesn't require the sand or gravel base, and for many applications may require only 1" or 2" of depth with the polypavement (depending on the projected use of the ground) while concrete poured at only 1" or 2" deep will crack and crumble with our first freeze-thaw cycle.
KiotiJohn
The link you provided is only HALF the story of the true costs of PolyPavement. Dig around on their site and they have a link to another site that talks about insallation, and saturation depth per the type of road/path/parking area that you are trying to construct. At that page the specs lay out the DEPTH you need to saturate the ground and how the ground needs to be prepared, and what gpf rate the product needs to be applied. The true cost is going to be based on the amount of product per square foot, times the depth in inches required. For most homeowners, a 2" depth would be more than sufficient for many applications, a 4" depth might be necessary for something like a driveway. But even that is not the whole story as there are different saturation amounts needed for different types of products. From what I could tell, the 22-cents per s.f. was the cost at the maximum saturation rate.
I think there are "landings strips" and then there are LANDING STRIPS. Now I am just guessing here on the abilities of PolyPavement. There is a farmer near me with his own fleet of small planes, he has a grass runway. I would think PolyPavement would probably suit his needs very nicely . . . on the other hand, we fly in & out of Chicago O'Hare airport pretty much every month and I think those big heavy jets would probably sink in the farmer's grass runway even if it was treated with this stuff. JMuninformedHO
mrcaptainbob
Just a couple thoughts on your price comparison. Labor costs, or at least labor time should be lower with the Poly. Also, while the cost per CUBIC inch of the poly product is roughly equal to concrete when using the highest saturation ratio, the application charts show that you probably don't need to go as deep as concrete for many applications. A minimal application (at least in my area) of concrete is 4" and that is over a layer of sand and a layer of gravel. Polypavement, doesn't require the sand or gravel base, and for many applications may require only 1" or 2" of depth with the polypavement (depending on the projected use of the ground) while concrete poured at only 1" or 2" deep will crack and crumble with our first freeze-thaw cycle.
KiotiJohn
The link you provided is only HALF the story of the true costs of PolyPavement. Dig around on their site and they have a link to another site that talks about insallation, and saturation depth per the type of road/path/parking area that you are trying to construct. At that page the specs lay out the DEPTH you need to saturate the ground and how the ground needs to be prepared, and what gpf rate the product needs to be applied. The true cost is going to be based on the amount of product per square foot, times the depth in inches required. For most homeowners, a 2" depth would be more than sufficient for many applications, a 4" depth might be necessary for something like a driveway. But even that is not the whole story as there are different saturation amounts needed for different types of products. From what I could tell, the 22-cents per s.f. was the cost at the maximum saturation rate.
OP
LBrown59
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Oct 27, 2004
- Messages
- 16,831
- Tractor
- 2003 Kubota BX1500/2004 Kubota Bx23/2005 Kubota BX1500
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Around here a yrd of 'crete goes for about $70. That's just a bit cheaper than the plastic.....
one yd=324 sq ft/1" thk. 324 x .22 (plastic price)=71.28.
Maybe the trade off would be to not have lay sand for the base? )</font>
<< 1*Around here a yard of 'crete goes for about $70. That's just a bit cheaper than the plastic.....
one yd=324 sq ft/1" thk. 324 x .22 (plastic price)=71.28.
2*Maybe the trade off would be to not have lay sand for the base?
mrcaptainbob
>>>>>>>>>
1* I don't know what makes a yard of concrete so expensive;
but it you dump it in dirt you eliminate the gravel and sand cost.
2*With the concrete you have to pour and finish it which ain't cheep.
one yd=324 sq ft/1" thk. 324 x .22 (plastic price)=71.28.
Maybe the trade off would be to not have lay sand for the base? )</font>
<< 1*Around here a yard of 'crete goes for about $70. That's just a bit cheaper than the plastic.....
one yd=324 sq ft/1" thk. 324 x .22 (plastic price)=71.28.
2*Maybe the trade off would be to not have lay sand for the base?
mrcaptainbob
>>>>>>>>>
1* I don't know what makes a yard of concrete so expensive;
but it you dump it in dirt you eliminate the gravel and sand cost.
2*With the concrete you have to pour and finish it which ain't cheep.
edgaines
Member
If you are refering to the Polypavement, the surface you put it on must compact, like wetting sand, or any other dirt, and squeeze it in your hand. If it makes a "ball", you can use the polypave.
Bob_Skurka
Super Member
- Joined
- Jul 1, 2003
- Messages
- 7,615
Ed, I think you are 100% correct with regards to LBrown's slag question.
Since you posted the link to PolyPavement I've really been digging into the product, in fact 3 of us at the office have been digging into PolyPavement and the competitive brands. There are some products out there that will work in sand, some that require small amounts of clay (PolyPavement) others that work with aggregate type soils. I would think that PolyPavement may not be the best choice for pure slag, but some of the other poducts might be just the ticket.
The Federal Highway Administration, Indiana University and the University of Texas all had useful infromation about soil stabilizers. IU & the FHA had some descriptions of different products. To find this informaiton I did a GOOGLE search on soil stabilizers. The UofT information was very comprehensive and basically stated that because soils are so different, you need to use the right brand of soil stabilizer to get good results on your soil.
Since you posted the link to PolyPavement I've really been digging into the product, in fact 3 of us at the office have been digging into PolyPavement and the competitive brands. There are some products out there that will work in sand, some that require small amounts of clay (PolyPavement) others that work with aggregate type soils. I would think that PolyPavement may not be the best choice for pure slag, but some of the other poducts might be just the ticket.
The Federal Highway Administration, Indiana University and the University of Texas all had useful infromation about soil stabilizers. IU & the FHA had some descriptions of different products. To find this informaiton I did a GOOGLE search on soil stabilizers. The UofT information was very comprehensive and basically stated that because soils are so different, you need to use the right brand of soil stabilizer to get good results on your soil.
Soundguy
Old Timer
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2002
- Messages
- 51,575
- Location
- Central florida
- Tractor
- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
Slag is not a good stabilized subgrade.
Soundguy
Soundguy
I suggest considering using Soiltac ( www.Soiltac.com ) soil stabilizer & dust control agent for your project. This is a copolymer emulsion engineered to bind soil and aggregate together for form a hard, water-resistant surface. It is currently being used by the Dept. of Defense in Iraq for building unpaved roads and even runways to stabilize the soils and control dust for military operations.
