Disc Harrow Disc for 100hp tractor

[jeff9366]

I see larger tow-type units with equal amounts or rust for less money on CL. is this guy high on this price?

Have you invested any time researching this TX4 Disc Harrow? Research whether Cat 1/Cat 2 hitch? Did you research the weight? Research the pan diameters? Did you research the Tufline brand?

The previous thirty posts provide comprehensive alternatives. You should demonstrate you have learned and can apply the information provided. You should not be sponging now.

Monroe Tufline is The Best in Disc Harrows. The lightest model in the 9'-6" TX4 series is 66 pounds per disc.

I am out of here.

 

[TNRifleman]

I have read everything on it I can find online. Apparently it is actually model T4X, the seller has it listed wrong. I cannot tell from his pics or description what diameter the disc are or class the hitch.

I am even waiting on a quote on a new one.

As I said I am going to look at it in person to make absolutely sure of the specs and condition.

I was hoping I could keep sponging for a while longer though.....

 

[farmer2009]

Another vote for no-till. In a food plot setting just get a 7-10 foot drill and be done. It'll plant corn, beans, grasses, clovers, sunflowers and what ever else you need it to. Most drills have multiple hoppers so you might seed as much as 3 different seeds and rates and seed sizes in 1 pass.

As far as fertilizer and lime. Spread it on top and it'll work its way in. Is it the best no but it has advantages also. Just watch the weather and spread it before a light rain not a flash flood. It'll get in the ground before it washes down hill.

 

[Turbys_1700]

These folk make a good quality disc also. We have a 131 flex disc that would be a good choice for you but I don't want to let it go.
Athens Plow Company

 

[MF283]

I guess you got it or someone beat you to it, it was deleted.

Ronnie

 

[NoTrespassing]

I agree with Brian on the offset disc but would choose the 8'4" model with 24" pans. That is about as much as your tractor can handle on sloped ground. A simple 3 point spike tooth harrow and or a cultipacker would help finish these plots off.

You could also use a 7' to 8' rotary tiller too. Good for mixing in amendments and leaves a good seedbed. A tandem disc harrow with large notched blades will work but will take more passes.

There are several ways to get this done.

My neighbor had a guy disc his old hay field to try to turn it into a deer feed plot. The sod hadn't been broken in years. They pulled a disc over it several times but it just made a mess of piled up sod strips everywhere. He wanted me to mow it the next year and there was no way, it was way too rough. I think they ended up plowing it all under eventually. Lots of guys use rotary tillers for food plots around here but I don't know what's best.
Kevin

 

[jenkinsph]

My neighbor had a guy disc his old hay field to try to turn it into a deer feed plot. The sod hadn't been broken in years. They pulled a disc over it several times but it just made a mess of piled up sod strips everywhere. He wanted me to mow it the next year and there was no way, it was way too rough. I think they ended up plowing it all under eventually. Lots of guys use rotary tillers for food plots around here but I don't know what's best.
Kevin

Hello Kevin,
Almost all of the land I work with is irrigated fields which haven't been turned over in twenty years or more. I use an S tine field cultivator first followed by a rotary tiller. The S tine cultivator is good for finding trash buried in the field such as wire rope and other things which would wreak havoc with the tiller. After two passes with the cultivator I can till up the fields with the rotary tiller and have a good seedbed in 90% of the cases.

For most owners of compact tractors with hydro transmissions a rotary tiller is the ideal tillage tool imo. Since the transmission isn't under load because the tiller is pushing the tractor forward you can then utilize all of the pto power for the tiller. That removes most of the hydro transmission losses that would be experienced with high draft loads. A common argument here would be that farmers use discs in most cases and rarely use a rototiller. That is true also but these same farmers are not using compact hydro tractors for field work either.

With a 100 hp tractor properly set up you can have several choices for tillage. Which choice is best depends on the soil conditions and what you need to achieve.

 

[RedNeckRacin]

op, one point to mention is that you don't have a 100hp tractor. (flame suit on) Most of those discs are rated at DRAWBAR HP not FLYWHEEL HP IIRC. Big difference right there. Look at your pto numbers to get a better idea. In freshly plowed ground I could yank a 16' JD disc around and my 5083E wanted no more especially going uphill. We have mostly heavy clays with a thinner layer of topsoil. I often had to bump the discs out of the ground with the hydraulics. If you are not ballasted correctly you will pull a lot less also. I have filled rear, wheel weights, and suitcase weights.

 

[TNRifleman]

I guess you got it or someone beat you to it, it was deleted.

Ronnie

Yeah, I went ahead an got it last night. I am VERY happy with it. I believe it was the best choice for what we are doing and our experience level.

We just hooked it up an hour ago and put it in the dirt with minimal adjustmet. It is highly effective and I am very pleased with the results.

I am really interested in these all-in-one seed drills but I am OK with doing it the hard way a couple times. I always like to learn the fundamentals first.

I already have a field cultivator that is kind of light and a really nice cultipacker so I believe I am good to go.

 

[MF283]

Get the ground worked up with the disc, you can rent a no-till from CO-OP & get your seeds/fertilizer as well.
Congrat's on the purchase.
Ronnie