disc harrow bearings

[mikeydchicago34]

i am restoring a disc harrow that has a square axle. the bearings was a round bore with a 6" pipe going through it. The square axle slid through the pipe. Is this the correct setup for a square axle? I need to replace the bearings so should i get a square bore bearing or continue with the round bore and the setup it is in. Attached is a picture of the axle, flange, round bore bearing and pipe that goes thru the bearing. any help is appreciated.

 

[RickB]

Without knowing for sure, I'd say if the pipe is fitted through two half-spools and the bearing, it's factory. If the pipe is there spacing the bearing to the axle AND doing the job of the half-spools, it's a cob job. How are the other bearings on the disc set up?

 

[flusher]

i am restoring a disc harrow that has a square axle. the bearings was a round bore with a 6" pipe going through it. The square axle slid through the pipe. Is this the correct setup for a square axle? I need to replace the bearings so should i get a square bore bearing or continue with the round bore and the setup it is in. Attached is a picture of the axle, flange, round bore bearing and pipe that goes thru the bearing. any help is appreciated.

My old Towner 6-ft offset disc has square axles and simple three-piece bearings.

The bearing spool (attached to the axle in the 2nd photo) slides onto the square axle. The two outer bearing pieces fit over the spool and are held in place by a pair of bolts that also carry an attachment bracket that holds the disc gang to the frame. There's a lube tube that attaches to one of the outer bearing pieces for greasing the bearing.

Your disc bearing looks quite a bit different from mine. Hope this helps.

 

[mikeydchicago34]

Without knowing for sure, I'd say if the pipe is fitted through two half-spools and the bearing, it's factory. If the pipe is there spacing the bearing to the axle AND doing the job of the half-spools, it's a cob job. How are the other bearings on the disc set up?

The other bearings are setup the same way. It just seems that having a round bore bearing with a pipe through it never engages the bearing to rotate. The square axle just rotates inside of the pipe. Seems pointless to have a bearing that never rotates. Do you agree? And yes the pipe does have 2 half spools that go over it to act as spacers. It looks all factory setup just doesnt seem to do what it was intended to do.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

I've seen round axles in square bearings, square axles in round, mixed spools, disc blades, ect, and some were ORIGINAL. So long as they fit up with no excess slop, an will tighten up safe, solid, and secure........NO HARM - NO FOUL.

The strength and "structural integrity" of a disc gang is all about the axle being torqued T.I.G.H.T. The spools and blades are sandwiched together in such a way that there shouldn't be the need for a precision fit befitting of a Swiss watch.

If this was a massive, super-heavy-duty disc with 300 or 400 lbs per blade, I'd be more apt to want squares in squares and rounds in rounds. But with the weight and duty rating you're looking at, I wouldn't go to extra-ordinary measures to CHANGE what you have. It worked just fine up until now. No reason to suspect it won't go another "lifetime".

 

[kthompson]

It does seem strange but that does not mean it is not factory. But if the bearings are not doing their job, then why do you have to replace them? It is possible when the axle is tighten as has been pointed out that squeeze is sufficient to engage the bearing properly. If the bearing is not turning then it would seem the square axle is rotating in side the pipe. If that is correct then the inside of the pipe and the square axle should be showing wear.

 

[blueriver]

Those bearings and flanges in the picture can be picked up at TSC

 

[RickB]

The other bearings are setup the same way. It just seems that having a round bore bearing with a pipe through it never engages the bearing to rotate. The square axle just rotates inside of the pipe. Seems pointless to have a bearing that never rotates. Do you agree? And yes the pipe does have 2 half spools that go over it to act as spacers. It looks all factory setup just doesnt seem to do what it was intended to do.

If the gang is TIGHT like it is supposed to be, the half-spools will butt up against the bearing inner race and force it to turn along with the half-spools, pipe, and gang bolt. Probably is the factory setup.

FWJ has it right; you simply can't allow a disc gang to run loose.

 

[Bartcephus]

Any idea what kind of bearings these are?

 

[rambler]

Any idea what kind of bearings these are?

Same design as Flusher shows. Good luck finding replacements. If yours are still useable, keep them _well_ grease often.

--->Paul

 

[rambler]

It just seems that having a round bore bearing with a pipe through it never engages the bearing to rotate. The square axle just rotates inside of the pipe. Seems pointless to have a bearing that never rotates. Do you agree?

No - it should work as the others say, when you tighten the nut on the axle _tight_ everything should clamp together, did we mention _tightly_, and nothing should be able to spin other than the bearing?

Does the bearing actually slip over the pipe, or does a pipe butt up against the bearing on each side?

--->Paul

 

[Bartcephus]

Any tricks on getting the axel out?

 

[Wingman99]

I'm a novist farmer and I'm attempting to repair a disk harrow. The trouble seems to be the rear left bank of disks (there are 4 banks), it's hard to spin and the inside bearing squeeks. The axle appears to be true, so I'm thinking the trouble is the bearing. My question(s) is, can I unscrew the bolts that appear to hold the bearings to the frame and then undo either end of the axle to get at the bearing in question OR can I just support the entire bank and remove the disk closest to the bearing (it's one disk away)? The bolts on the axle are different, the outside nut is about 3/4" hex nut, but the inside nut is an old style 1 1/4" (approximately) square nut.... So, I'm not even sure if I should remove the inside nut, although it would be nice just to remove the one disk, as opposed to having to remove all the others from the outside in. Any thoughts or recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance..... Geoff

 

[jenkinsph]

Wingman99,
I would loosen the axle nut and back off then drop the entire gang, dissassemble and install both bearings and reassemble. That way you don't have to go through this again when the second bearing fails.

 

[deere5105]

Wingman99,
I would loosen the axle nut and back off then drop the entire gang, dissassemble and install both bearings and reassemble. That way you don't have to go through this again when the second bearing fails.

Good advice. Just rebuilt a disc harrow with new blades and new axles. Had a few of the bearings that wouldn't turn smoothly by hand that I replaced. I re-used the other old bearings. After my first fall deer plot project, I now have one squeaking pretty loud. I plan to break it down this winter and replace the bearing. While down, if the other bearing isn't a new one I will change it too. I think I paid around $18 a piece for the bearings.

 

[cowski]

show picture.the hex nut on the outside may be a add on disc.

 

[Wingman99]

I'm a novist farmer and I'm attempting to repair a disk harrow. The trouble seems to be the rear left bank of disks (there are 4 banks), it's hard to spin and the inside bearing squeeks. The axle appears to be true, so I'm thinking the trouble is the bearing. My question(s) is, can I unscrew the bolts that appear to hold the bearings to the frame and then undo either end of the axle to get at the bearing in question OR can I just support the entire bank and remove the disk closest to the bearing (it's one disk away)? The bolts on the axle are different, the outside nut is about 3/4" hex nut, but the inside nut is an old style 1 1/4" (approximately) square nut.... So, I'm not even sure if I should remove the inside nut, although it would be nice just to remove the one disk, as opposed to having to remove all the others from the outside in. Any thoughts or recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance..... Geoff

Thanks for the words of wisdom, they're greatly appreciated..... So, if I understand the thought process correctly, I'm going to loosen the nut at the outside of the gang, then the 2 collar nuts and bolts, drop the gang and remove the disks to replace the bearings. Then re-assemble in reverse, doing the final tightening on the frame..... Does that sound like a good plan? And again, thanks for the advise.

 

[jenkinsph]

Pretty much it, I would check everything for cracks while I had it taken apart. You will have to keep an eye out on the nut and shaft, may require several times to get it tight enough.

 

[ctlguy]

The other bearings are setup the same way. It just seems that having a round bore bearing with a pipe through it never engages the bearing to rotate. The square axle just rotates inside of the pipe. Seems pointless to have a bearing that never rotates. Do you agree? And yes the pipe does have 2 half spools that go over it to act as spacers. It looks all factory setup just doesnt seem to do what it was intended to do.

Someone may have already stated and I missed but this type of a bearing setup is normal. The bearing does turn on the pipe if assembles correcty and as stated by others tight, tight, tight. Disc center breakage is ALWAYS because the gang was not tight enough. Is still used today by many of the big mfg's for bearing design on discs. Usually square hole bearings are for tools like roller harrows, etc but not discs.

 

[cowski]

if you are looking for a squeak ,you better check the scrapers first.on the back you can take the inside nut off and pull the axle out.