Ditch Witch engine locked?

[Kermitfrog]

I've got an old Ditch With (R90?) that has been sitting for a few years. After it sat for about 8 months I went to crank it and it wouldn't turn over. Didn't need it so I let it be. Now I need it so I need to get it running.

It has acted like the engine is locked. I can even see the flywheel jerk when I turn the key. We've even put some MMO (Marvel Mystery Oil) down in each cylinder and let it soak in. The front blade and rear trencher are in the down position so I can't pull it in gear to break it free.

Any ideas? Thanks in advance.

 

[Fixemall]

With the plugs removed, spray some marine fogging oil in the cylinders and gently work them back and forth with a socket on the crank. I would also fill the crankcase with transmission fluid until you free it up.

 

[Kermitfrog]

Unfortunately there is nothing to allow me to work the crank.....that I can see. The flywheel is at the front of the motor and then the crank attaches directly to a pump on the front of the engine. (I think that is what it is, going off of memory). I do know I can't just put a socket on a breaker bar to work loose it like most engines.

This one has me stumped.

 

[Bob Rooks]

Doesn't the flywheel have bolt heads showing? Unscrew two of them and install longer bolts then put a bar against them. It sounds like the pistons engaged the cylinder walls - seen that happen when moisture mixes with dissimilar metals, like steel and aluminum. Even if you do get it turned over I doubt it will run right. Most likely rings are frozen in there too. This is a strong argument for starting and running once a month whether you need it or not.
I'm just full of good news aren't I. :laughing:

PS: The flywheel is never at the front of an engine, except in case of older marine engines.

Curious what filling the sump with ATF does, it's only 10w base stock oil with anti-foaming agents and friction modifiers.

 

[DanD78]

The pump could be lock up or the chain drive engaged. Maybe it's not the engine that is locked up. If the valves are stuck don't get too mean turning the engine. Damage could be done.

Dan

 

[Kermitfrog]

No visible flywheel bolts, only just the teeth are visible through a small hole in the safety shield.

Possible pump locked up or something could be engaged that I don't know about. I'll be honest in saying I don't know much about the machine as I only used it a few times, parked it and that was it.

Gut feeling is the rings aren't frozen as it didn't really sit too long before it locked up, my dad thinks different so I am treating it as it is. Starting to wonder if neighbor kid wandered over and played on it and engaged something I don't know about.

Thanks for all the ideas so far. :thumbsup:

 

[Kermitfrog]

PS: The flywheel is never at the front of an engine, except in case of older marine engines.

Curious what filling the sump with ATF does, it's only 10w base stock oil with anti-foaming agents and friction modifiers.

The flywheel is at the front. Quite definite about that. First I have ever seen anything like it. Starter mounts at the front of the motor instead of back at the transmission. Actually I need to check how much power the starter is putting out, another possibility. Love to have my old school starter checker again.

 

[Fixemall]

I have always used ATF in old engines that have sat to increase flow and remove sludge, it will also flow better under hand cranking conditions to protect parts that have not had any lube in a long time.

 

[Sasquatch4100]

Maybe water got into the motor via exhaust via exhaust stack? Have you pulled the drain plug or checked the underside of the oil fill cap?

I got a T136 bobcat trencher that was involved in a flood. Thought someone may have drained the water out of it by the time I got it. Nope. 3 gallons came out. Block can be saved. Not sure about the head. It's got a 34hp kubota in it.

 

[Bob Rooks]

I have always used ATF in old engines that have sat to increase flow and remove sludge, it will also flow better under hand cranking conditions to protect parts that have not had any lube in a long time.

Okay, whatever. :laughing:

 

[Sasquatch4100]

You have a picture of this beast?

 

[Fixemall]

Okay, whatever. :laughing:

I started my mechanic career at 15 in a salvage yard, over the last 35 years I have worked on hundreds locked up engines, my methods might not be the best but they work.

 

[Bob Rooks]

I started my mechanic career at 15 in a salvage yard, over the last 35 years I have worked on hundreds locked up engines, my methods might not be the best but they work.

My father owned a garage when I was born. Later, during WWll he worked as a mechanic for Greyhound Lines in their San Fransisco shops (when they were still using the inline-8 gas engines.), and my two uncles ran a salvage yard, which I played in.
I was a heavy duty mechanic for many years, working for IHC, Caterpillar, and PACCAR at their R&D center. I have attended many trade and vocational schools for heavy machinery, and eventually became a licensed marine engineer. I have studied lubrication engineering as part of my ongoing education as a chief engineer, and have encountered more "wives tales" about all forms of "fixes" than you can shake a stick at. Using ATF as a flushing agent is just throwing money away (it has zero detergent properties) when you could just as easily used 10w detergent motor oil (cheaper).
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