Diverter valve

[Maynard287]

Can any one tell me where to buy a good diverter valve, I would like to add a cylinder on my chute for the snowblower, Thanks.

 

[kennyd]

Here is a link to the one I used on my FEL:
Surplus Center Item Detail

And here is a link to the post where I installed it:
http://www.tractorbynet.com//forums/showthread.php?t=48310

Also, if you do a search for "diverter" you will get lots more info incluging two other popular choices.

 

[Maynard287]

Thanks Kennyd, you did a great job on that installation. One other question, have you heard of fasse valves ?

 

[kennyd]

Yes,
Fasse makes good stuff, your JD dealer should be able to get them for you.
In fact, member JasonL installed one on his tractor. You can PM him for more info and read about his install here:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/69093-another-diverter-valve-grapple-setup.html

Use the search feature

 

[MadReferee]

That diverter valve from Surplus Center is the best all around diverter valve for use on your tractor. It's less than 1/2 as expensive as some of the "name brand" others and if you don't mind fabbing your own mounting bracket it's a great buy.

 

[jdgreg]

Here's a thread I posted on installing a Fasse valve on mine.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/jd-owning-operating/65760-fasse-valve-kit-ati-grapple.html?highlight=fasse

I would have liked to have gone with a WR Long, but my JD Dealer only sold the Fasse. I've tried parting and piecing hyraulics before, big PITA!!! Not enough places in my area to get what I need. Was the main reason I went with a package from the dealer. Plus if there were any issues or questions, I know I could get help.

 

[Maynard287]

Thanks to all for your help.

 

[Superduper]

I noticed that surpluscenter also sells 2 other valves that look like they may work: One triple electric one and a couple of manual ones. The triple valve is even cheaper at $149 and the manual ones are cheaper still.

Can anyone comment on the use of manual valves vs the electric ones? I'm thinking that since they don't have a solenoid, nor connections, nor relays, nor switches, that it might be more reliable in the long run.

triple electric valve
1/2" double selector manual valve
3/4" prince dual selector manual valve

 

[MadReferee]

The triple selector looks interesting. The other two are a little overkill for CUTS at 20 gpm and 30 gpm. This means big an heavy. Take a look at the the size and weight. 10 lbs and 5"x4"x3" for the first and 12 lbs and 5"x4"x3" for the second makes them just like heavy bricks.

 

[kennyd]

Super,
Like Mad said, those are pretty big valves! The funny thing is that I paid $149.00 for my diverter and they have been going up in price since.

The manual diverters are cheap, but mounting it in a location you can reach and be able to get 6 hoses to it could be a real challenge! Plus the extra cost of longer hoses and extra fittings have to be considered when pricing out the whole project. The electric diverters can be mounted remotely, out of the way, and closer to the hydraulic ports.

 

[Superduper]

Too big? Really? I would have thought that the capacity was a max rating and not necessarily what you are expected to operate it at. I guess I always thought that extra capacity was a good thing. Secondly, as far as weight goes, I've been looking at that and it seems that the weight difference isn't all that much: 9lbs for the lightest electric valve, vs 10lbs for the lighter/smaller manual valve with handle. As far as physical size is concerned, nothing in the specifications strike me as fantastic. I guess I like to subscribe to the KISS philosophy (keep-it-simple-stupid) as the more complicated and sophisticated a system is, the more likely something can go wrong. I do agree that the electric valve does permit greater flexibility in mounting. However, this option also requires relying on exposed wires that will need protection from mechanical as well as weathering damage, relies on electric solenoid which I'm thinking won't be as durable as a mechanical system, and of course the connectors and switch.

Guess I need to do some more thinking before starting my own project.

 

[MadReferee]

RE: size and weight.

The larger the gpm rating the larger and heavier the valve. That's the nature of hydraulics. Choosing a valve that is way over the gpm rating for your tractor does absolutely nothing for performance or reliability except add weight and size to an already cramped operator area. Bigger is not always better in hydraulics.

You will also need to reduce the fittings down to your hose size too. An extra cost. Bigger fittings mean more room is required to mount the beast.

However, it's your money and your tractor. There have been plenty of people who have posted here and said that they went with 20-30 gpm valves for a CUT and were saddened to find out that they bought an oversized heavy brick.

 

[kennyd]

Super,
Sounds like you have your mind made up...Please post some pictures of you project when you are done

 

[Superduper]

Super,
Sounds like you have your mind made up...Please post some pictures of you project when you are done

You all bring up good points. I haven't made up my mind yet, but relying on experience from my days as a towing business owner/operator, I am leaning towards a mechanical system as opposed to an electrical based system which was less reliable and didn't perform as well in that application. Then again, my tow trucks got alot of use and ran 24 hours whenever possible to maximize income potential. I also had different people operating my trucks and they don't always get babied.

For my project, I will be adding one extra set of remotes to accommodate top/tilt. I already have the 3rd SCV but that'll only operate one cylinder. I was thinking about mounting the diverter/selector valve at the rear of the tractor and not inside the operator station so space is not as big an issue. I do not mind turning around to operate the valve. My initial plan was to plumb the valve into the outputs using quick couplers to connect to the existing remote quick-connectors as it could be installed quickly and without modification to the existing system but, I'm not sure if that will be a good idea. When I am done, I'll post pictures and descriptions of how and why I did it that way. I am hoping to get to work sometime in spring or early summer. In the meantime, I am still in the researching/brainstorming stage. Of course, I'll keep an open mind and am open to suggestions. I also respect immensely the expertise and experience of the members of TBN. Thanks again.

 

[kennyd]

Cool! I ASSumed your were doing this for the FEL, not the rear of the tractor.

Here is another option for you to consider, even though you are leaning towards a manual setup. It just plugs right into the set of remotes you have, no plumbing required!
V&M Inc.

 

[Superduper]

Cool! I ASSumed your were doing this for the FEL, not the rear of the tractor.

Here is another option for you to consider, even though you are leaning towards a manual setup. It just plugs right into the set of remotes you have, no plumbing required!
V&M Inc.

Thanks Kennyd, Great resource that I didn't know existed! Another option to throw into the mix!